This has probably been asked-and-answered before, but:
I am looking for multi-section "empties" - that would be the can and the phenolic wafer - so I can stuff them myself without the cutting-and-gutting otherwise necessary.
on e-Bay and ordered a few that have not arrived yet. In my case I've got a 4 section cap: 330-100-100-100 all at 75 volts, Oh, and the case is POSITIVE as it is for the bias supply in the amp.
Both my customer and I are OK with the look of it, and soon I'll see if it works. I like that they have the option of grounding to the chassis or not.
Those are handy, but don't provide the "look" of the original can.
I restuff all the can electros I run across - not for originality as much a s for maintaining the original layout. Some folks leave the cans in place, disconnect the wiring, and add terminals to the bottom. This takes up a l ot of room.
I restored a 1951 Andrea TV a few months ago and restuffed all the cans. I believe there were 7, maybe 8. Adding terminal strips and two to four mor e caps to replace each can would have been a nightmare to the guy in 50 yea rs who wants to repair or restore this TV again. Since this model was cove red by Sams, the bottom of the Andrea still looks like the photofact pics.
If I had to, I'd use the wafer you linked and try to use a plastic or cardb oard tube over the caps just to make them look at least a little vintage.
I didn't have any luck finding aluminum cans or shells. The first few photos might be worth following: The sources seem to be only in China or India and only sell in large quantities. The few capacitor rebuilds I've done were all in the original can. Good luck.
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
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If you're not trying to exactly duplicate an original can, you can always u se 1.25" PVC pipe which will be just a wee larger OD than the original stan dard size can. Cut it to fit, place it on end over wax paper, fill will *l ong* set epoxy to form a cap at the end, then sand and paint a flat silver.
Hot glue or fast epoxy the PVC "can" down over the new caps on the wafer li nked elsewhere in this thread. It won't look exactly like the original can but it will be better than using exposed modern electros on the new wafer.
Uh, no. I am hoping to find a simple kit to do a passable replacement. Fail ing that, I will simply purchase the mounting plates and leave the individu al caps exposed. Thanks, all for the various pointers. I have found the usu al suspects on my own, and I do own a large tubing cutter, and so forth. Bu t, I was hoping that someone out there made 'empties' as a kit.
Nice job! Can says 6800MFD/50VDC and the cap inside is
2200MFD35VDC...someone is going to get a nice surprise!
John ;-#)#
-- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
iling that, I will simply purchase the mounting plates and leave the indivi dual caps exposed. Thanks, all for the various pointers. I have found the u sual suspects on my own, and I do own a large tubing cutter, and so forth. But, I was hoping that someone out there made 'empties' as a kit.
Failing that, I will simply purchase the mounting plates and leave the indi vidual caps exposed. Thanks, all for the various pointers. I have found the usual suspects on my own, and I do own a large tubing cutter, and so forth . But, I was hoping that someone out there made 'empties' as a kit.
p-drawn-cans/zmc-137
Looks like 2.1" is the highest they get. Not a lot of room for multi secti on requirements, and they're probably expensive unless you order 1K or more .
I kind of like my idea of using schedule 40 PVC. Cut to any height, easy t o shape or round off the edges, spray with flat gray or dark silver, hot gl ue over new caps - done. Cheap and easy.
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