Hot melt glue sticks?

Back in the day, I had some hot-melt glue sticks that were low viscosity when hot but rather hard when cold. Similar to the stuff they use to tame vibration in big caps on circuit boards. Worked in a standard "craft" glue gun.

Regular craft glue sticks are too soft for my application.

There are a zillion kinds of glue sticks available, but the data doesn't give me any clues as to how hard they are.

Recommendation for cheap glue sticks that can work in a standard craft glue gun and are somewhat harder than the typical craft sticks?

Reply to
mike
Loading thread data ...

A little Googling leads me to

formatting link
; the second page gives some recommended 3M part numbers for hot melt for electronics. Digi-Key seems to stock most of those part numbers in small quantities; it's up to you to decide if they are cheap. 3M also has detailed spec sheets on those part numbers, including Shore hardness values.

Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.

Matt Roberds

Reply to
mroberds

I started to make my own harder formulation, then found a couple of Kg in a surplus store. I cut up plastic supermarket milk containers, sans labels and caps, until they would break-up further in a motorised grinder. I would then have pushed the flakes into a hot-melt glue gun to extrude out string. Then when cold twist that into "rods".

While on hotmelt. I seem to have broken a glue gun, quite a loud bang. I wanted to change colour of glue stick , so switched on , but did not leave warming-up for long enough before extracting the stick. I must have cracked the ceramic of the wire-wound resistor and a few minutes later , bang.

Reply to
N_Cook

thanks for the inputs. I really don't need much performance from my glue sticks, just some that harden slightly harder.

Interesting about the milk cartons. I remember once cutting them into narrow strips and using a small butane hot air gun to layer them onto the thing I was fixing. You can do the same thing with the old-school BIC clear plastic pen housings. I should try that again.

Reply to
mike

Do you mean milk "jugs"? Those 1-gallon square-ish containers for milk and water and such? This is polyethylene, yes?

Reply to
Bob E.

recycle code sez HDPE

Reply to
mike

Yeah, high-density polyethylene.

So more plastic welding than gluing...

Nice alternative. Thanks for the idea.

Reply to
Bob E.

yerp. The professionals use office-grade paper shredders for the macerating part of the process.

Reply to
N_Cook

I'm sure's talking about actual jugs, a thin "plastic", rather than a waxed cardboard that would seem to be what's used in "milk cartons".

I remember DOn Lancaster talking about 3D printing quite some time ago, except as I was reminded recently, he called it a "Santa Claus Machine".

I'm sure he used a hot glue gun at least for demonstration purposes.

I'm sure there probably are still homemade 3D printers that use them. If so, that's another place to look. They need the "raw material" for the feed, what are they using? The process I've read does sound like what was mentioned earlier about grinding up existing plastic, but I can't remember what they did with the ground up stuff.

I've also read about melting styrofoam and I think plastic coffee stirrers with acetone, though I'm not blank about what the point was. But that might lead somewhere.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

And there's that stuff, I can't remember what, that "glues" by melting the plastic together, rather than gluing. I think it had "methyl" in the name.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

Methyl Ethyl Ketone (a.k.a. MEK) perhaps?

In many cases, toluene or acetone can be used in the same way.

A lot of the glues for acrylic, polystyrene, etc. are just this sort of solvent, in which is dissolved some amount of the base plastic (thickens the glue, improves the ability to fill small gaps which is pretty much nil in a pure-solvent "glue").

Some people make up their own "goopy" glue for acrylic by simply dumping a bunch of plexiglas chips, shards, shavings, and dust into a clean jar, pouring in enough of the appropriate solvent to cover, and letting the acrylic dissolve.

Reply to
Dave Platt

Michael-

Could you be thinking of homemade coil dope?

I'm not sure what the hardness of the resulting material would be, but certainly harder than a styrofoam coffee cup or packing peanuts!

Fred

Reply to
Fred McKenzie

Yes. Though when I read about it, it was decades ago, and in a magazine.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

Lots of cold-weld 'glue' for plastics (acrylic and polycarbonate, and maybe others) is based on methylene chloride. That is also sold (or used to be) in paint remover and carburetor cleaner. It's best used with ventilation (outdoors), and isn't generally recommended for home use.

Reply to
whit3rd

I found this recently:

formatting link

Reply to
Chris Jones

With plexiglass for instance what would be an appropriate solvent? Lenny

Reply to
captainvideo462009

Plexiglas is the Rohm and Haas trademark for acrylic (methyl methacrylate) plastic. It cold-welds with methylene chloride, and there are some reports that acetone (methyl hydrate) also works.

Here's a good commercial methylene chloride product...

Reply to
whit3rd

On Sun, 8 Mar 2015 16:16:30 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote as underneath :

snip

For perspex etc. Chloroform. C+

Reply to
Charlie+

I just ordered some yesterday. Weld-on is the major brand in the US. I was told by a plastic working pro that Weld-on #4 is the best for generic use if you're workign with acrylic the first time. Different plastics will require different solvents.

There are modifiers in plastic welding solvents to change drying time, viscosity etc.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

The stuff I've used is called Harvasolv, and is guaranteed to give you a horrible headache in 3 minutes of use.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 

160 North State Road #203 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

hobbs at electrooptical dot net 
http://electrooptical.net
Reply to
Phil Hobbs

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.