Help with Sears Mower 917.387440

I picked up this Sears model 917.387440 6.25hp push lawnmower at a yard sale for 5 bucks and someone had attempted to do some carb work on it which failed miserably by looking at it. The gas line is cracked and the jet needle was missing. Easy enough to get those parts at the local Sears place. However, I cant really tell how the carb levers and springs go into place, maybe Im missing another part but hard to tell. I was hoping someone might have access to or know where I can get a real picture of how it looks put together. Sears engine model is 143.006200

Sponge-

Go to a Sears Service Center. You might be able to order the owners manual for that model, but they have it on microfilm. If you explain your problem, they should let you look at the info, and perhaps print a page for you.

I've found them to be extremely helpful finding newer parts when older models have been discontinued. Be sure to take along the engine model data.

Fred

spongehead--

You seem to be plagued with mower problems--didn't you just fix a 3.5 hp mower with an idle problem. ;-))

Tut

On 25 Jun 2005 10:02:11 -0700, "spongehead" wrote:

It's most likely a Techumseh engine on it correct? Is it set up for throttle free runningor does the mower have a throttle control? I repair these things all the time and can set you on the correct course to having that mower running in short order. The gas line is 1/4 inch, just go down to a auto parts store and buy a foot of it and cut to length. There is no jet needle, I'm assuming you're talking about the fuel supply needle that goes on the float? You'll have to purchase that as part of a float kit if you go through sears. It can be had separately at most lawnmower supply shops.(You should get a seal o-ring as part of the packet as well. It's the o-ring that goes up in the needle well. white rubber about 1-2 mm's in dia.) The float will be plastic and 90% of the time is fine. Check to see if it has leaks to be on the safe side, or you'll get gas flooding problems.(tie a weight on it and submerge in water if you get bubbles it will need replacing as well. once removed from the water take a look at it as see if it's got any water inside, just give it a shake.) The govenor spring and link are easy. On the side of the engine casing you'll see the governor control arm(shiny metal with two holes in the top end.), the top hole is for the bent angled wire control link. It goes to the back hole on the carbuerator butterfly, under the govenor assembley plate. The spring with the short straigt wire link will go to the lower hole and to the throttle control arm that sticks out from the throttle plate assembley. The diagrahms on the sears site won't be detailed enough for you to see this. I'll either have to talk you through or send you some scans/vidcaps. Talk to me if you can't find someone locally and I'll snap those pics for you monday.(I have several Techumseh's engines in shop)

Yeah it is a Techumseh but the float is metal and seems to be in good working order. I am able to get a rebuld kit at Sears for about 15 bucks, includes gaskets and the fuel supply needle. That should get it going hopefully. Just you describing which wire link goes to which hole, I think I got the jist of it. Is there ever problems on the inside of the motor where the governor control arm is? I just havnt worked on a motor like this, usually the basic briggs stuff. Thanks for all the info!

Nah, usually no problem. Though it does depend on the stupidity quotient of the original owner. And yeah your right, it's a metal float. My memory gets lousy at my age plus I'd spent the last few days working on Briggs and honda motors so plastic got stuck in my mind. Techumseh's as of the past decade or so have gotten to be the most reliable motors out there. Don't get too over confident about those links, it's easy to get the wire link on backwards and they do have to go on exactly right. Like I said I can send you some vid caps or stills of just how they go on if you need it. You can make the flat intake gasket yourself with some fibre gasket sheets and an exacto, the float bowl gasket usually lasts for a long time. The needle can be got solo at most small engine parts/lawnmower parts shops. A hint, Sears uses the same parts numbers as the oem's so you can use the sears # at the lower cost parts houses. There are tons of places online as well.

Just a few.

seems to me the last time I actually bought a new needle I got it for around 6 bucks with the seat o-ring seal included.

Not bad, was able to find it for 11 bucks. If you want to send pic of linkage, just add "msp" after the underscore. I did notice the spring was all stretched out, not sure how important that is or if I can get away with stretching it some more.

Probably:

The spring is probably fine, that's the way it is.

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Theres the pic I was looking for. Thats perfect, thats a bunch.

If you follow the diagrahms at that link you'll be installing the govenor spring link BACKWARDS. The short wire section of the link goes into the lower hole on the govenor control arm not the spring. Insert the wire through the front of the hole and the spring goes onto the throttle link arm on the throttle plate assembly.

If the spring is stretched out it'll need to be replaced. Stretched out springs don't allow for proper throttle play and can cause dips or dives in govenor function.

If the spring is stretched replace it. Proper tension and spring length is importnt for proper govenor function as well as smooth throttle control.

Oy. So just reverse the smaller link wire and spring. Ok, I'll give it a try. Its going to be a week or so before I get the carb kit, would another fuel supply needle work as long as it fits in the hole and the float?

It needs to be the exact needle. Virtually all techumseh carbs use the same size needle/float. If the spring link is working in reverse go ahead and leave it that way.( to much handling can stretch it and that's bad.) I'd recommend looking around for a source for second hand parts. I get mine from toss offs, you'd be amazed how many people just toss a mower because it simply won't start on the first pull or so when they drag it out in the spring. Try asking at your local small engine reapir shop for that needle, they might sell you one for next to nothing. If all else fails give me your address and I can send you one cod on the postage.(I still have a few in my parts bins.

I got the needle at a local repair guy for 2 bucks. Came with needle, clip and some liitle white gasket looking thing. The white thing didnt quite fit anywhere so I left it out. Put everything together and it started right up but didnt last long. I have to keep pushing the bulb to keep it going. Is it because of the little white thing or am I losing air somewhere?

Is this an engine with a float bowl carb? If so, remove the banjo bolt that holds the bowl on and clean out the tiny passages in it, those clog easily.

Functionally, they are equivalent. The only issue is whether parts interfere. There have been all sorts of arrangements depending on model. The important thing is that the solid wire goes between the governer lever and throttle plate on the carb. The spring'd wire goes between the governor lever and throttle control (or fixed location if non-adjustable). And, yes, which hole in the governer lever are used for each matter!

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After a closer look in the carb, I realized that the old rubber tiny gasket thing was still seated. D'oh! I also noticed some guck in the little holes of the float bowl cover screw. After getting everything straightened out, it runs fine. Some minor spring adjustments and the lawn is mowed. Thanks to all!

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 23:49:44 GMT, "James Sweet" wrote:

The little white o-ring is the needle seal. It goes up in the needle well. If you look up in the needle well wth a flashlight you'll see the old seal.(It'll be stained a yellow-brown color from the gas.) Yo can pry it out with a small right angle dental pick or a slotted jeweler's screwdriver. alternately you can also get it out by shooting compressed air through the fuel supply inlet, should pop right out. Press the new seal in using a dowel or punch the same diameter as the seal. A bit of fine machine oil can be used to lubricate it to make it slide in easier.. Be sure it seats firmly in place. Test the needle to seat action before reassembling the carb to avoid flooding out the mower.

You say it didn't last long. Did it just quit after running for awhile or did it try to start and then die out? The next thing that could be a problem is the primer bulb. Depending on the model it could either of three different type priner bulbs.(The carbuerator draws part of the suction required to pull gas from the bowl through the primer bulb ports. If the bulb is rotten or has a puncture it'll cause suction loss.) A visual inspection on the bulb will usually tell. It'll be cracked or split or be "gummy" when you squeeze it. It's easy to replace and doesn't cost but 3-4 bucks.(Sears or parts store.) It'll be either the round non vented bulb, black, red or orange in color or the accordian style that comes in either non-vented or vented.( will have a small 1-2mm hole in the center of the bulb.) All are held in by a circular spring clip. It has 5 or so square tabs that stick out to grab the primer bulb well walls. It can be prized out using a small slotted blade screwdriver, either a #0 ot a narrow slot #1 blade.(jeweler's driver will work as well.) Spray the whole spring and housing with a bit spray oil to slick it up a bit. Prize under one of the tabs until it moves out a bit then mover onto the next one going a bit at a time in a circular pattern until you get it out completely. The bulb can then be pulled or prized out. don't worry about damaging it, it's a toss off item and can't be fixed. Clean out the well with a bit of carb cleaner spray and a stiff bristle brush, wire bruch is fine. You can also scrape out the old rubber with a screwdriver or dental pick. To install the new bulb just place the bulb all the way in and press in the new retainer clip with a small slotted screwdriver. This is done by placing the tip of the screwdriver into the circular depression in the ring and pressing a gently at different points of the ring in a circular pattern untill the ring is all the way against the lip of the primer bulb. Then gently but firmly press with the screwdriver in the depression of the ring at the base of each of the retaining tabs. You can test for a firm seat and lock by simply pinching the tip of the primer bulb between forefinger and thumb and giving it a gentle tug. If it pulls out the tabs on the retaining ring have been overstressed and need to be bent out straight.(Sometimes they come from the factory out of spec and won't form a tight fit on your particular carb housing.) If the original ring came out in one piece and didn't snap you canuse that one. However to retension a spring, new or old, you use a pair of needle nose pliers and gently bend the tabs out a bit so that they'll fit snugly down the bullb well on your carb. Just be careful as it is easy to snap the ring itself overstressing the tabs.

Also ensure that all of the fine ports on the carb are clean. This includes the small hole on the lower side of the primary jet well.(The well that the brass jet/bowl screw screws into.) Also the brass bowl retaining screw depending on the model also has one or two small ports on it that need to be clean for fuel to get to the main supply port. The short screw has one, the taller screws have two, 180 degrees opposed at the base of the screw.(just under the hex head.) You can use an aerosol carb spray to clean them out. I use either the High-Tech brand from Wal-Mart, The store brand from Autozone or a good name brand like Justice Brothers Carb spray. Anything that is acetone base is good. Avoid Gumout carb spray, worst stuff made. Most all come with a red plastic pipette for blasting out fine ports, use it. If the clog is stubborn spray some cleaner in a small cup and soak the parts to soften the clog up.(I use the plastic cap that comes on the spray can.) If the ports won't unclog using the cleaner take a small piece of stiff wire.( I use a piece of copper strand from a piece stranded automotive wiring 18 gauge or whatever.) Gently push it through the clogged port to break up the tarred gunk, follow with a healthy spray of cleaner. Use the pipette and carb spray to back blow the ports in the main intake of the carb also. This'll clean out the primary suction port that runs through the welsh plug and the seconday that runs through the primer bulb housing. Let parts dry or blow off with compressed air, then reassemble carb.