Electrically conductive paint?

Electrically conductive silver paint for repairing car windscreens has served me well in the past, and it's readily available at car shops. It's rather pricey but it does the job.

Eventually it may need recoating as it's not really intended to flex, but even a small bottle would do hundreds of jobs in this application.

Dave

Sorry, I meant for repairing rear window demister elements.

Dave

There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts suppliers, who supply parts for TV and electronic device servicing. Note that the cost is not cheap.

Jerry G.

I've also had some success with self adhesive aluminium tape. I cut it into small squares and stick it over the faulty rubber pads. It usually works great but like the silver paint job will not necessarily last for years. Having said that, a roll of tape would do hundreds of remotes and it's pretty cheap stuff. It has the advantage of flexiing with the pad, whereas the silver paint may eventually wear out or crack..

Dave

"Jerry G."

No doubt this sounds like what I was looking for... but a quick Google turns up nothing. Can someone get me a little closer to this product?

Dallas

"Dave D"

Yeah, I've heard of that stuff... if I can't find the repair kit it sounds like the second best option.

Dallas

Tried one of those on a JVC remote about a year ago, cost around $15 for the repair kit. Two-part epoxy kind of thing, had to mix it and use it within 15 or 20 minutes, throw out whatever was left over.

Remote worked great for 2 or 3 months, then the repair gunk started wearing off, and I was back where I started. Ended up ordering a replacement remote from JVC website, cost around $20 with shipping, and it's still working fine.

If I got a do-over, I would just order the new remote and forget about the repair kit. Might think differently if the new remote had been more expensive. YMMV.

If the OP wants to check into the repair kits, I bought mine at Circuit Specialists in Mesa, AZ (local to me)

Hope this helps, Jerry

I know that this is slightly off topic from what the poster was originally asking, but I've had great success in the past, repairing conductive pad type keymats, by carefully scalpelling off the worn out pad, doing the same for a good pad from a scrap remote or telephone keypad, then supergluing the ' replacement ' onto the original mat. That way, you've got an almost original pad, that feels original, and won't suffer from cracking like the paint.

Arfa

ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

Most of the ones I come into contact with show oil (for lack of a better descriptor) on the pads used frequently. The oil must be in the pads themselves . . . from what I see. The center PB will have oil and none to either side (on some). I don't believe it migrates.

This 'oil" seems to insulate the switch contacts. and appears on the frequently used switches.

My cure has been isopropyl alcohol with a swab to the pad and paper towel (toilet paper or napkin) to the board That fixes it like new for about a month . . .

Aluminum foil with a thin (VERY THIN) RTV coating seems to work longer but still not as long as the original pad coatings.

Only 100% fix seems to be replacing the key pad with a tiny surface mount switch - - - if you can solder it, or see well enough . . .

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Hi...

I wonder how dag would do? (aquadag)

Take care.

Ken

This is the product you are searching for

I have used it in the past but results are dependent upon several factors, not the least of which is how long the product has been sitting on the shelf. Because you use only a tiny amount to repair a typical rubber keypad you tend not to want to throw the remainder away afterwards because you may have to repeat the exercise in a couple of years. By then the product will not produce reliable results so it is basically useless after opening and using it the first time. Ideally, a whole batch of rubber keypads repaired at the same time is the only way it is cost effective. Having said that, if you have no other way, then $12 might seem a cheap option to keep your remote operating.

The company I previously purchased this product from now lists it in their catalogue as FAULTY.

The same company also make a conductive epoxy

and whilst not indicated as suitable for rubber keypad repairs I would still give it a try since it should last longer than the other product. If it doesn't work it is not hard to remove it.

Ross Herbert

Surf over to MCM Electronics at

and search for part number CW2605. Circuit Works Rubber Keypad Repair Kit.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net  (Just substitute the appropriate characters in 
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

***

I have had great sucess super gluing a small circle of aluminum foil on the defective rubber pad. If it's only 1 or 2 not working, it is a quick job and a cheap solution.

Larry

Well, as an amateur, here is what I have found works.

1. The oil, as you call it, is from the human body. i.e. fingers. The best way to remove it is to use rubbing alcohol.
2. The longest lasting thing I have found to fix "worn out buttons" is to clean the pad with alcohol and then put a dap of contact cement or rubber cement on the pad. Then put down a little circle or square of standard old kitchen aluminum foil. Press and hold the foil to the button for a couple of minutes and then reassemble the remote. Its been working for me for about three years on the garage remote that gets used 3 or 4 times a week.....

Just my two cents...

Simple Green works very well too, sucks the oil right out of your hands too.

If the hardware store aluminum tape doesn't work for ya, you might try self-adhesive aluminum sheets (sometimes sold as mirrored mylar) which can be found at hobby shops that concentrate on model kits, scale trains or RC aircraft. These sheets are available in very thin, highly-flexible versions -- they can be burnished right over fine aircraft details like rivets.

Go to sci.electronics.repair and you'll get some info from the pro repair folks - name it, and someone's done it, fixed it, or will have a link!!

Never mind, just noticed that's where you're at - assuming this is the same Dallas as at AGMFS.. :-)

Body oil was my first guess too. But it would have to migrate through the silicon membrane to get to the pads, so I ruled that out as being unlikely.

But that does call to mind an experiment to prove/disprove the oil theory. I just cleaned my own remote and its working 100% with just a light press on the keys. I plan to wrap the remote pad in metalized polyester to see if that acts as a barrier.

I'll have to try the contact cement, the RTV wasn't lasting very long.

Thanks for the input

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