Since you appear to think I know all about your posting style, I must presume that you there fore know all about mine. I like a good trim text job. Leave enough text so we know the question that goes with the reply. But, sending a dozen or so quoted replies back through the list is really bad manners.
With your simple answer to my simple question, please do a reasonable text trim. Thank you.
-- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
Since you appear to think I know all about your posting style, I must presume that you there fore know all about mine. I like a good trim text job. Leave enough text so we know the question that goes with the reply. But, sending a dozen or so quoted replies back through the list is really bad manners.
With your simple answer to my simple question, please do a reasonable text trim. Thank you.
-- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
Since you appear to think I know all about your posting style, I must presume that you there fore know all about mine. I like a good trim text job. Leave enough text so we know the question that goes with the reply. But, sending a dozen or so quoted replies back through the list is really bad manners.
With your simple answer to my simple question, please do a reasonable text trim. Thank you.
-- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
I ran out of options. I can't think of anything else to do to debug.
One of the rare times in my life where I lost the battle to even *diagnose* something, let alone fix it.
You might (simply) answer Stormy's simple question. I have a bit of a guess what is going on.
-- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
I have no idea *what question* you are asking. In response to *this* post, would you kindly just ask the question? Is it the polygamy question?
I asked it two or three times. I repeated, changed the subject line to indicate there is a question. You quoted it, my very simple question (at least) three times in your twenty post rehash. I've kindly asked, reminded, reposted, encouraged, others have highlighted the question, and no I'm not going to do your job for you.
BTW, the simple answer should be five words or less. I can answer it in three.
-- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
-----
Your answer is irrelevant to my question.
-- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
This horse is long dead, flayed and flensed.
Please stop trying to feeding it.
Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA
-------
I hate when I don't have proper diagnostic tools or data to fix things. As a result, the wife ordered a new refrigerator to be delivered by Costco. It will arrive in a couple of weeks (they say).
Meanwhile, I connected the hard-start cap at 9:44am this morning.
The 2010 Kenmore started immediately, pulling 3 amps from RUN & COMMON:
The START pulled 0 amps & the condenser fan was hooked to its own power:
The inside freezer starts to cool and the compressor output tube gets hot:
The top of the compressor heats to at least 138 degrees F:
The compressor ran from 9:44 to 10:03 (19 minutes) and then shut down:
It pulls 12 amps when it tries to start for 19 seconds at 10:03, 10:08,
10:12, 10:15, 10:19, 10:23, etc.:I can still cancel the Costco order.
Does anyone have any other ideas for debugging why the compressor won't restart after the first start?
I hate when I don't have proper diagnostic tools or data to fix things. As a result, the wife ordered a new refrigerator to be delivered by Costco. It will arrive in a couple of weeks (they say).
Meanwhile, I connected the hard-start cap at 9:44am this morning.
The 2010 Kenmore started immediately, pulling 3 amps from RUN & COMMON:
The START pulled 0 amps & the condenser fan was hooked to its own power:
The inside freezer starts to cool and the compressor output tube gets hot:
The top of the compressor heats to at least 138 degrees F:
The compressor ran from 9:44 to 10:03 (19 minutes) and then shut down:
It pulls 12 amps when it tries to start for 19 seconds at 10:03, 10:08,
10:12, 10:15, 10:19, 10:23, etc.:I can still cancel the Costco order.
Does anyone have any other ideas for debugging why the compressor won't restart after the first start?
The horse is dead. No amount of fresh hay will bring it back. You can have a new refrigerator today if you put your mind to it. Make your wife happy for once.
Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA
Christopher, can you perhaps leave "Jesus" out of your threads? It's very irritating.
Cheers,
Gareth.
Oh, that's obvious. The 'start relay' is a thermal device, once there's an overload it requires a quarter hour or so to cool down before it can function normally.
To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.
When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.
Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.
So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.
The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about
1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the
17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.
Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the
*fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.
This is all I think I know:
To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.
When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.
Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.
So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.
The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about
1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the
17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.
Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the
*fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.
This is all I think I know:
To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.
When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.
Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.
So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.
The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about
1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the
17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.
Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the
*fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.
This is all I think I know:
Don't bet money on that. Kenmore can also be Electrolux (formerly Frigidaire) LG, Samsung, and just about any other appliance manufacturer.
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