Kenmore 110.24722300 broken tub

Hi everyone,

I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model number 110.24722300. I noticed water pooling under the washer a few days ago and assumed that the tub overflowed. Upon further examination it would appear that the plastic tub has a crack in it. The crack is located at the base of one of the "fins". The underside of the tub appears to have 3 fins that are approx 1/8" thick, 2" deep and 2" long. They serve no purpose from what I can tell. It looks as though the fin has knocked into the metal base of the washer causing the fracture. The fin adjacent to the cracked one shows signs of knocking into the frame as well. I also noticed that there are two little plastic cups that are mounted to the frame. These can be seen here:

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Both cups were filled 3/4 with water. Both cups also contained a pin with a hole for what looks like a cotter pin. Does anyone know what purpose these serve? At first I thought that maybe the pin happened to fall out but both pins were out and in the cups. I find it unlikely this is a coincidence. Are the cups meant for storage and the pins used for servicing of some sort ? If I manually adjust the tub in the right spot I can align three holes in the frame and tub assembly and stick the pin in. What strikes me as odd is that if the pins were supposed to be part of normal machine use I would think they would be installed with the pin head "up" so they would not fall out.

If anyone has any suggestions I would be more than grateful to hear them. I just applied some silicone to the crack in hopes that this may buy me a little more time. My confidence level is not very high as the material appears to be PP or PE and thus hard to adhere to. I would also like to understand why this happened in the first place. Thank you in advance.

-Jesse

Reply to
Jstein
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On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:02:49 -0700 (PDT), Jstein put finger to keyboard and composed:

Model #11024722300 - Kenmore washer - Parts & Exploded Views:

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- Franc Zabkar

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Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
Reply to
Franc Zabkar

Thanks for the link. I should have included in my original post that I had the exploded diagrams. For whatever reason, the small plastic cups and pins are not included in these drawings.

Reply to
Jstein

This is a different type of machine to what we have in the UK, and I am no expert on any of them, however- could the pins be for transport of the machine and on the first use of the machine simply drop into the cups by vibration?

Just a thought...

Kenuf

Reply to
Kenuf

I did think of this but what I'm struggling with is that the pins fall out very easily when I insert them into the holes. The pins have holes at the top for what looks like a cotter pin. Where did the cotter pin go? I suppose they could have been plastic and meant to shear after

1st use.
Reply to
Jstein

(Why the f*ck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program! Worse: why am I using it?)

Consider this: the pins were attached to a plastic 'tape' that runs to the rear of the washer. On the tape is a tag that says "Pull this tape completely out prior to useing the washer." Yes, I've seen this setup, don't recall what brand it was.

Reply to
Peter2

This I can help with:

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Good question. I can't help you with that. ;-)

Reply to
JW

Close, but QuoteFix is for Outlook not Outlook Express. And Outlook doesn't support NNTP.

I'm going to have to work on that one too... OE doesn't have spell checker (except in French, WTF?) doesn't quote right, is a PITA to navigate in, is short it sucks, big time. Problem I have is that Thunderbird won't connect properly with Eternal September, so I can't use that (even though it is my 'favorite' NNTP reader right now.

Reply to
Peter2

Geeze, there is an Outlook Express version, I missed it! So I installed it, and the keyboard's up arrow won't work in replies, but I guess I can live with that (you can't right arrow to the prior line either!)

Reply to
Peter2

I think those are anti-siphon devices (siphon break?), to keep the drain from siphoning water out of the tub at the wrong time. You may want to check appliance websites with forums, like ApplianceJunk.com (has many manuals, as does ApplianceDigest.com ), ApplianceHelp.com , FixItNow.com , and Appliantology.org .

There may be a secret warranty on cracked tubs, but don't expect Sears or Whirlpool to admit to this. Also Sears is nothing special when it comes to appliance repair, except for their high parts and labor prices. If there's no warranty, look for either Whirlpool factory repair or an independent authorized repair company that has a real street address (no big ads in the phone book). I think the only way to fix the plastic tub is by melting it back together with a soldering iron and some identical plastic to use as welding rod.

Reply to
larry moe 'n curly

I ended up applying some silicone to the underside of the tub. This has helped significantly though it does still leak. I think I'm going to try applying some silicone to the inside of the tub as well. After observing the machine complete 2 full loads I am of the feeling that the machine was overloaded or the clothes shifted making the tub heavy on one side. The plastic fins did not come close to knocking into the frame during these loads. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I can find the spanner wrench? I haven't had much luck locating one online. Thanks again.

Reply to
Jstein

Try automotive part supplies, but you should be able to get by with a hammer and a punch to remove the nut holding the tub against the shaft. That's one of the methods Whirlpool describes in its factory service manuals. Did you get the manual from ApplianceJunk.com or ApplianceDigest.com ?

Reply to
larry moe 'n curly

I have an idea for the use of the tabs. They may allow stacking of the tubs. Thus they were added for manufacturing.

Reply to
Ron D.

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 09:58:39 -0400, "Peter2" put finger to keyboard and composed:

Does this help?

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- Franc Zabkar

--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
Reply to
Franc Zabkar

i've had success on two different tubs, essentially with DIY plastic welding. on one tub, i used a low wattage soldering iron, partially melting the edges of the crack and melt-filling the crack with strips from a polyethylene milk jug. on the other tub, i used the heat of a glue gun to melt the edges of the crack and also melt-filling, as described above.

Reply to
nucleus

I may try the welding you described if my silicone does not hold. I was able to take off the spanner nut last night and remove the metal tub. I tried removing the plastic tub but I did not want to disturb the center seal. I applied a liberal amount of silicone to the inside of the tub. I roughed up and cleaned the surface pretty well in hopes of increasing the bond. I will let the group know if it holds.

Reply to
Jstein

Reply to
nucleus

uoted text -

I think the melting plastic/welding process offers the best chance of success, especially if done on the inside of the tub where water pressure will push the patch toward the actual tub. I also think the comment that the tabs are part of the manufacturing process is 100% correct,

Reply to
hrhofmann

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