One of those small external switch mode m ps units , specific to a piece of kit. Fully working order but the black sectored/vaned conical "protector " is cracked, the cable seems ok at this stage. Anyone have a neat beefing-up procedure, to avoid inevitable deteriation ?
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
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Yeah, this is why I hate 'welded shut for your protection' power units. Yours has a fractured strain relief boot, I gather.
First, you can knife-trim away any disconnected part of the boot, 'cuz it's just a cable stiffener if it doesn't transfer strain to the case. Then you can build up some material using fusion tape (self- adhering rubbery tape, used for weatherproofing splices).
If the power unit can be opened, you could try to remove the boot entirely and replace it with (for instance) a short piece of vinyl (Tygon brand is what we see here) tubing, held in place with cable ties. If the tubing doesn't friction-fit in the hole, bulk it up with a wrap of fusion tape. This kind of solution might not maintain your warranty, of course.
If appearance isn't important, I've also bent back the cable along the case and cable-tied it to the case; there won't be any more cable strain on the boot now! That looks ugly and shortens the wire, but it's safe and quick. No warranty worries.
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Yeah, this is why I hate 'welded shut for your protection' power units. Yours has a fractured strain relief boot, I gather.
First, you can knife-trim away any disconnected part of the boot, 'cuz it's just a cable stiffener if it doesn't transfer strain to the case. Then you can build up some material using fusion tape (self- adhering rubbery tape, used for weatherproofing splices).
If the power unit can be opened, you could try to remove the boot entirely and replace it with (for instance) a short piece of vinyl (Tygon brand is what we see here) tubing, held in place with cable ties. If the tubing doesn't friction-fit in the hole, bulk it up with a wrap of fusion tape. This kind of solution might not maintain your warranty, of course.
reply: Both ends of the DC cable were affected. The less mangled end I just slid some heatshrink over and heated , with the sleeving contracting into the webs, but a lot stiffer than was.
The other end I split a BNC cable entry protector and filled the gap and web gaps with black hotmelt glue , then heatshrink over thick form plummers PTFE tape, heated and then cut off the PTFE and sleeving. Looked quite neat but again very much stiffer of course.
Whether the cable will break at the new sort of pivot point, not rigid but then not as soft as the sectored webs/vanes, time will tell but at least it will not fail at the original position which must have been weakened , even if not obviously so.
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
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