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advise on best capacitor types for speaker cross-overs and where to buy

Hello, I have a pair of 20+ yr old Acoustic Research AR-91 speakers which are starting to sound a bit "dark". I was told it could be the capacitors, and, at least, upgrading the capacitors isn't likely to give the speakers a faster response time.

Each crossover has 8 capacitors ranging from 50ufd to 100mfd, all rated at 50volts. The capacitors do not appear to be leaking, but I imagine they do wear out over time.

Is there a particular type or brand of capacitor that is recommended for speaker crossovers, and where can I buy them via the Internet.

I have found a few sites claiming to have the "best" capacitors for audio, but I have not found any reviews to substantiate their claims. Any advise?

Thanks!

Reply to
gchristopherjones
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Check out other threads here that discuss older electrolytic caps (search on something like "ESM" meter, if memory serves).

Your intuition seems good: if you read these threads, they suggest that age deteriorates electrolytics - that may be your problem. Of course, the tweeters are 20+ years old, too...

If these AR's are anything like the various speakers I used to work on years ago, all the caps are probably *non polar* types - if you decide to replace them, bear that in mind.

Good luck - I always liked the sound of AR's. (want to sell them?)

Reply to
Mr. Land

If they are non-polar electrolytics, and I'm sure some at least will be, it's quite likely that they may have lost some capacitance as a result of the electrolyte drying up over time.

Brand isn't really a big issue to be honest, although you'll find some fools who'll tell you otherwise.

Indeed. Forget 'magic' capacitors assembled by naked virgins under a full moon and buy good commercial quality ones.

Graham

Reply to
Eeyore

Btw, there's no point in replacing plastic film caps if there are some, they don't age like electrolytics do..

Graham

Reply to
Eeyore

I've been trying to determine the location of that capacitor factory for years...

Reply to
Mr. Land

Thanks - I'll search the threads.

The caps are polarized.

Sell them? I bought these speakers in San Francisco in 1984. For the 4 hour drive home, one sat in the front seat of my girlfriend's b210, and the other across my lap in the backseat. How could I ever part with them... well, maybe if I find a good pair of AR9s with their huge tracks of woofers! ...

Darn, and I had my wife convinced I needed to go to the factory to pick-up these fine crafted electronics :-)

Reply to
gchristopherjones

On Tue, 26 Jun 2007 08:27:31 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com put finger to keyboard and composed:

Our local supplier (WES) stocks the following.

Metallized Polypropylene Fast Capacitor:

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Here is their complete range:

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WES also carry the following range at about half the price:

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- Franc Zabkar

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Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
Reply to
Franc Zabkar

Hmmm, so where are the slow capacitors ?

Graham

Reply to
Eeyore

On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 08:50:03 GMT, Eeyore put finger to keyboard and composed:

I presume that audiophiles understand the difference. I'm still struggling with the concept of "warm" valve sound.

- Franc Zabkar

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Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
Reply to
Franc Zabkar

In message , Franc Zabkar writes

I've always assumed that 'warm' means rather woolly (lacking top), with just a hint of audible 100 / 120Hz hum - ie just like radios were like when I was a kid. Ian.

Reply to
Ian Jackson

100Hz modulation causes that. Its fairly easily replicated with transistorised amps. lack of treble & bass response completes the picture.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

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