Advice requested from those of you who have successfully checked camber at home

Yes, it is an odd discussion and, because of that, one that I have been loath to become involved in. FWIW, back when I was doing wheel alignments, and lots of them, Toe was always designated as a 'linear measurement', usually in fractions of an inch for most of the vehicles that I worked on, and it was never an issue. The equipment I used, from the very basic to the most sophisticated computer types, had both linear and degree scales so the issue in this thread is really a non-runner. What's more, there always seemed to be some sort of conversion chart on hand, supplied by the equipment manufacturer, so there was never a need to deal with trig functions. Failing that, these days there are internet options of which I supplied the URL to one such in a past post.

--

Xeno 

First they ignore you, 
Then they ridicule you, 
Then they fight you, 
Then you win. 

Mahatma Ghandi
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Xeno
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"John Harmon", AKA Horation Alger, AKA Raymond Spruance et.al. does not exist except in the diseased and fevered mind of an established but not very clever internet troll.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Reply to
pfjw

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buy a manual.

The Ford E250 I drive replaces parts ...2 ...to adjust camber. Then there would be other adjustments in the tie rods.

I doahn know how to do that. I assume from what I do know the adjustment/repair process was designed for 3rd world conditions in Missouri.

I have a 544 Volvo. A 544 is adjustable at the home garage level, designed for this.

I had not considered this until watching a Mustang alignment check in the pits with a tape measure poss for rectangularity or a modification of. The adjustment is in the manual but I had not done followed thru.

However, a check by a serious amateur mechanic prob doesn't cover the same ground as the alleged sophisticated equipment operated by knowledgeable trained technicians ... if the expensive tires are wearing oddly. Or maybe it does. Try it.

Unusual tire wear is the start. Keep an eye on tire wear n measure tread depth.

Reply to
avagadro7

On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 8:32:19 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrot e:

nformation.htm

e would be other adjustments in the tie rods.

repair process was designed for 3rd world conditions in Missouri.

d for this.

pits with a tape measure poss for rectangularity or a modification of. The adjustment is in the manual but I had not done followed thru.

e ground as the alleged sophisticated equipment operated by knowledgeable t rained technicians ... if the expensive tires are wearing oddly. Or maybe i t does. Try it.

depth.

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a controllable area is the driving surface n driving 'habit'

we have 2 in our front yard: one, a sweeping banked turn replacement for th e 19th century boundary 90 degree turn and 2, road by Monroe....a county li ne road surface height border.

If the sweeping corner is driven with force, the abrasive surface will eat tires.

The county line is problematic. Every expletive deleted time that ridge is driven thru the front end wears out. I raise the front end braking hard n releasing before the ridge raising the front in rebound. I should drive ar ound but the drive is long n complex compared to the ridge.

The two are 200 yards apart.

Reply to
avagadro7

This is dead wrong. Everyone knows that hack. It doesn't work for the E39. It might have worked for 1970's era cars, but not the E39. There just isn't any change in the engine speed no matter where or how or what you spray on the underside of the plenum. The leak is just too slight and the difference in engine speed too slight and the chance of getting the fuel from the plenum to the plugs too slight.

Reply to
John Harmon

If you're just spraying and not poking and prodding that's likely true, and a lot of less severe hose cracks won't get found that way unless you are pulling and stretching on the hose as you're hitting it.

But the plenum is easy, you just squeeze the body and shake it back and forth. Of course, likely you won't even need the spray because it'll come apart in your hands.

You are definitely right that the E39 is a lot more of a pain to find leaks in than the E30 and earlier vintage cars and more sensitive to smaller leaks. Sometimes the smoke machine IS needed. But sometimes you should be able to look at the plenum and see cracks and just replace the damn thing whether or not it's leaking, because you know it's going to start leaking soon.

--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Reply to
Scott Dorsey

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