60 inch RCA rear projection blank picture

I have a 60 inch rear projection RCA TV. It has a chassis number of PTK195AC and is model P60812BL.

The day before yesterday it was working perfectly (as it has for 8 years). All of a sudden I walked into the room and it is black. Turning it off, using the DVD and many other attempts to get a picture failed.

I let it stay off for a while, then turned it on. It would have a picture for a short time that looked like an old 60's horizontal hold problem with a partial, shrunken picture. I would suspect some sort of voltage problem. I have not had a TV problem in 30 years. I have not called a TV repair man in memory. I have the user's manual AND a service manual because I thought it would come in handy some day.

I called a TV repair fellow and he said he was familiar with this model of RCA and that the typical repair bill was $250. I am pretty handy with this type of thing (and an electrical engineer), so I thought that before he came over and found that it was a simple thing like a fuse, I would try to look at it myself.

Anyone have any ideas where to start?

Reply to
eganders
Loading thread data ...

Oh, by the way. What would you-all estimate a typical repair bill is on a rear projection TV? $250 would seem like a pretty reasonable amount, but this TV is about 8 years old and cost about $1,300 new. (That was a real deal, by the way. And it still seems like a deal because it still has a real good picture when it is working).

Reply to
eganders

That sounds pretty reasonable.

To start with you've got a lot of homework to do before you try to fix this yourself. Research with Google and see if you can find others who've had the same problem with that unit, that might get you some leads. Beyond that you'll need a multimeter and soldering equipment bare minimum. I really would recommend practicing on a TV you don't care about rather than this though, CRT projectors are one of the more tricky and finicky appliances to service.

Reply to
James Sweet

I think I would agree with the flyback area being the problem. Unless I could see something obvious (and I can't see anything at first glance), I am not going to go into the HV section. I don't have any components for that area anyway. I changed out a flyback on a TV and I had to wait for it to come in and the whole thing took about a week. I am hoping that this fellow might have comonents in stock. Is that a long shot?

Reply to
eganders

If I am not stuck with a bill of $500 or more, I would rather get this fixed. It would be a real chore just to remove this thing. It must weigh 350 lbs at least. And I really like the TV. I don't see anything equivalent in size and picture quality until you get to about $2,500 or more. I would like to NOT have that type of bill right now.

Just want to pass another thing by you-all. It would appear to me that we are in a state of great change in television technology what with CRT, LCD, DLP, Plasma and the various ways they project them. Not to mention the aspect ratios (which don't seem to be standardizing from what I can see), and the switch from the old FCC frequencies for transmitting to the new ways of getting the information into your home (satellite, cable and what not). Then there are the various levels of HDTV... You see where I am going.

What I am getting at here is that I thought that now is not a great time to settle on a new TV. I thought that a couple of more years might provide a better focas on what would be the best way of going before I switch to a new TV. The prices are starting to come down now also. I also know that technology is always changing, so the question really is, are we in the greatest time of change and I should let the dust settle some, or will this be business as usual and I should consider a change now?

Reply to
eganders

Get someone in who is familiar with RPTVs. If the tubes are sound and it worked well before it failed, it's probably worth fixing. If the tubes were obviously ageing, scrap it. These are not easy appliances to work on, and it's going to save you a lot of grief if you get a proper estimate and get the work done properly.

Dave

Reply to
Dave D

you should shop around for a new one, that is just my opinion. most likely you have FlyBack (HV) transformer unit shorting. or something in that area.

--
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5
Reply to
Jamie

The first thing we check for on these sets is a coolant leak in the vicinity of the EEPROM and the metal frame standing up on the left front of the main board or on the front of the convergence board at the connectors on the right side (looking from the back).

If the pix is shrunk vertically, look carefully for coolant at the first location. If it is shrunk horizontally, look for a problem in the pin or horizontal output circuits, maybe a bad cap or diode. This is common on the

169 chassis, but I have not seen it on the 195.

Leonard

Reply to
Leonard Caillouet

Look here!

formatting link

formatting link

formatting link

Reply to
Dani

Just have it looked at, if the picture was good before I'd be shocked if the repair came in at over $500. You have to factor in moving and disposal costs when considering the price of the repair, not to mention the environmental benefit of keeping it out of the landfill for a few more years. Even if you decide to replace it in a year, the value will likely be high enough on the working set to offset a good portion of what you spent repairing it, while in it's current condition the value is zero to negative.

Personally I see a lot of turmoil in the market, it's hard to say whether things will settle down, or whether they'll keep coming out with something new and improved which can keep you waiting forever to upgrade as has been the case with computers. My perspective is a little different than the average consumer though because when it comes to TVs and most other appliances I just wait until one breaks and is given to me, then fix it and use it until something better comes along the same way.

Reply to
James Sweet

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.