Pinging AK Andy

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check it out

$11.35 pair

Product Description SICK Optics WS15-D1130 / WE15-A1130. Photo-electric sender and receiver pair detects the presence of an object when the beam between the two is interrupted. Useful in automation, alarm systems and door annunciators. When the beam is broken, the receiver produces a current that can be used to trigger an audio-visual signal or relay-operated device. 5 Meter range. Built-in LED alignment and power indicators. Modules are 38 x 21 x 16.2mm and can be front or side-mounted. Front-mount hardware is included. Operate on 10-30Vdc. Power supply not included.

plastic nut. / Through holes on 24.1mm mounting centers.

ignores stray background reflections.

troubleshooting.

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That's a good price.

I have a lot of time invested in my current circuit.

It's working just fine.

Just waiting for the parts to start soldering.

I starting taking apart things to see how they connected their components.

Once I get experience soldering with prototype boards, I will start learnin g about using copper coated FR4 sheets.

I will also need to get a Dremel.

Andy

Reply to
AK

I agree with your decision to muddle onward. I 'd just buy the thing if I had a need, since I've more toys to play with than time to play.

The Dremel thing is OK, but it is better suited to things like strip-lines, UHF frequencies, matching delays to high accuracy, and you are a long way from that at this stage. Through-hole is faster and easier IMO for most breadboarding IMO. (but if you use surface mount components it may make some sense, my age and eyesight limit me in that respect)

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ning about using copper coated FR4 sheets.

I will use thru hole till I get much more experience.

I found a discarded DVD player. I do not know what they use, but I could no t desolder any of the components. I used the highest setting and the widest tip.

It was made by Bose.

Andy

Reply to
AK

They used lead free solder which melts at a higher temperature. So to get around this melt some solder on your iron tip and place it against the lead free solder. Once everything is hot add some more solder. It will alloy with the lead free stuff and lower its melting temp. Then use wick or a solder sucker to remove the offending lead free solder. Eric

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etpm

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earning about using copper coated FR4 sheets.

not desolder any of the components. I used the highest setting and the wid est tip.

Thanks.

Andy

Reply to
AK

Yea, that lead free stuff is hard to deal with. Like you said, put a lot of regular tin/lead solder on the joint and then try to remove it . It helps if some extra flux is put on the joint. When dealing with the SMD I found it really helps to add a lot of extra flux.

If AK really wants to play around, he can buy one of the 'hot air rework sations' from ebay for about $ 60. It has a soldering iron and the hot air wand. I often use the hot air wand to remove the larger items like earphone sockets and other connectors from the boards. Works very well if there is a 'daughter board' that has 6 or 8 pins connecting the two boards. Just heat all the pins and pull on the board.

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Ralph Mowery

I just removed some resistors and a capacitor from a board.

I laid my iron across the 2 pins and pushed down.

They came right out.

Andy

Reply to
AK

sensor-pair/1.html

What area do you live in? Maybe someone is close and can help in person, fo r example, I give kids lessons after school and college classes in the even ing in my lab.

Reply to
S Deyoreo

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for example, I give kids lessons after school and college classes in the ev ening in my lab.

In Seabrook, Texas.

Andy

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AK

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not near me.

Reply to
S Deyoreo

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