I just don't know whether they could do the pulse current in Win's application. You could probably extrapolate and drive them a little into the grid current region but there comes a point where particles may be ripped off the cathode.
What if you'd package the avalanche part of the presentation with some really scientific lingo, lots of complicated math going all the way back to Maxwell, tons of integrals in there? Maybe folks won't ask out of fear to embarrass themselves in front of everybody.
My favorite is the QB5/1750. The plate connection alone is an impressive steel rod of about 1/3" diameter. This tube has no problem whatsoever to sink a few amps. Even with the grid at 0V it already sits around 500mA.
Sven is right. Toroids don't leak much if the AL value of the core is high enough. Designing highly isolated supplies and signal coupling is my bread and butter and I never had leakage become a problem. #77 ferrite is great, or #43 for fast stuff. Getting certified wire for the primary is a huge job but only because my designs go into production in a heavily regulated industry. For a lab test rig you might get away with spark plug wire from the auto shop if you don't need many turns.
It's not difficult. Especially not in a lab situation, as long as your tech fully understands how not to compromise a 13kV barrier. And as long as the techs never, ever fire it up on their own.
Take a large enough core to make it easy for the techs. Up to 2" OD is often in stock and should be fine, larger could be special order.
I don't think it's that big a deal. P-E will ask you what the end use is, and you can get in trouble if you export them. I have a couple, surplused out of Los Alamos. I could post a pic.
You might wear them out if you pulse them a lot, though. They were never intended to fire very many times.
The simplified midwestern edition would consist of just three parts: Wires, a helluva big piezo, huge sledge hammer. And a six-pack of Schlitz, of course.
Yes, but be careful in a HV project. You don't want to re-create the northern lights in there.
Once I had a test setup where there was a somewhat regular clicking noise. Since I was certain that it didn't contain relays I turned off the lights and saw a blueish cloud. Upon a 'click' it disappeared and slowly built itself up again.
Get one that's not potted all the way. Take the long screws out or drill away the rivets if it has those. Then you can remove the spacers for the airgap between the core halves. AS long as you don't saturate it.
A better tube might be the good-ol 715-ABC! WWII radar modulator tube, good for several amps at 20KV IIRC. At a very short duty-cycle of course as the plate can only dissipate a cople dozen watts. Still being made to this day!
Didn't you get the memo? This is the driver stage for the newest high power mind control equipment. It will penetrate a full quarter inch thick aluminum hat. Just think about it. All of those suckers who just wear tin foil hats won't stand a chance against this baby! A single, full power pulse will vaporize the foil, along with the scalp and part of the skull. That's why the thing has a 5% tolerance. If it was any looser, it would cause the brain to explode! ;-)
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Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I\'ve got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
I can't quite picture what you're saying, can you expand? What do you mean, splitting the shield? Are you saying the coax will have 10kV across its dielectric for the last primary section?
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