Yeah..I've been thinking of grease too. It's a good solution.
Point taken about the Pdisp. qualified for air cooling. I created a chemistry pita instead of just going back to the surplus store to dig out a 100W power resistor rated for air. The one I'm forcing to use with liquid cooling I suspect is an underrated 50Watts. (No markings.) 0.8"d x 7"L
One the other hand, I find liquid cooling resistors appealing:
No super hot item on the bench. ( Bad enough I have wires accidentally land on my soldering pen.)
A cool down from 100C takes less time to handle the resistor to make a R adjustment.
Then there's the camp fire effect.. :) Oooooo Ahhhhh... . Watching that steaming resistor has an achievement effect. Ok...that's a bit goofy but it's a "like what you do" thing. :)
I'm surprised that no one has suggested an active load... no sliding contacts.
...Jim Thompson
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| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
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Thinking... Active load...uhhh.. I can use a power current sink...almost the same thing I think.. A power fet sprinkled with other components on an aluminum heat. Perhaps dunk the whole thing in water and use silicone spray to stop the electrolysis. ...or fan cool. I'd have to put time into making sure I have a predictable temperature stability. The current stability is allowed to be say.. +/- 0.2Amps. It'll be new for me to design a stable power current sink that can boil water. Fun project.. but I think using a power resistor instead has less implementation time for my app.
Did you read the part where all of the test rats died? It's probably excellent for heat transfer, but I wouldn't recommend using it for deep-diving until they solve that pesky "died of lung trauma" problem. ;-)
And, well, "The Abyss" was pretty stupid overall anyway.
If it can tolerate the lower cold filament resistance, use a light bulb (or several with switches to vary the load).
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Paul Hovnanian paul@hovnanian.com
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The commercial units I referred to are all used at RF. The one I have will take a KW for short periods at 50 MHz. Like you say, probably overkill for DC or power line frequency. For those, I would use a bank of resistors with a fan blowing air across them, or just bigger resistors. I think the OP said
100W, which doesn't seem like a big deal at low frequencies.
Ah, but they're refining it more now. In fact, it's used standard these days for some cases, drowning for instance. Displaces the water while carrying O2.
I know you like to do things the hard way, but think about buying a Clarostat 240-C power decade box on eBay. If you are patient, you should be able to get one for under $50. It saves a huge amount of time.
Your ignorance and ego know now bounds. There is nothing dangerous in using the right oil to cool electronics. Pole pigs are full of it, and I have NEVER hear of anyone overheating a properly filled cantenna. They have been around for at least 40 years. If they were dangerous, they would have been pulled from the market.
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Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
"Zerex Water Pump Lubricant and Protector The Zerex Water Pump Lubricant and Protector is a patented 5,702,631 cooling system additive formulation designed to protect all cooling system metals from corrosion. It also helps protect nonmetallic parts in the cooling system, like gaskets, hoses and seals. The Zerex Protector prevents the accumulation of cooling system deposits and helps lubricate the water pump. The Zerex Protector is recommended to boost any engine coolants protection and for those who want to recharge the coolant corrosion protection but do not want to change the fluid. It can be used in stored vehicles like collector cars, classics, hot rods and specialty vehicles, for applications where enhanced corrosion protection is a concern."
"Gunk Anti Rust With Water Pump Lube
- Mixes with all ethylene glycol based anti-freeze/coolants.
- Prevents evaporation, formation of rust and corrosion.
- Keeps entire cooling system clean and running efficiently.
- Lubricates and protects all aluminum and/or metal parts, hoses and seals"
This is a proposed solution if I don't want to coat the metals that are rusting on the power resistor in the bucket of water. After reading (the above), I think there's a chance that electrolysis erosion at 100VDC may happen on the resistor terminals. Funky trade secret stuff is in those lubricants. Free ions or not, I dunno....
Gunk Msds is: Naphthenic petroleum distillate Triethanolamine Zerex MSDS is: Unavailable! Ah...so what.. I'm not a chemist.
10 hours of research or just buy it and try it in an hour. Risky..Nah..
I still like the ideas of coating the terminals and greasing the tap for 'in the bucket' tap water cooling.
Westleys used to sell pint bottles. I like that for different uses. After my plastic bottle developed a whole in it. I lost all the stuff, and I never saw it being sold after that.
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