Stereo MircoScope or what ever scope.

Someday I'd like to try a digital video camara with a macro lens connected to a computer. D from BC

I picked up a used Swift "Stereo 80" It has only 2 preset views, 10x and 20x. This is not too much of a problem, given it's low cost and I'm very pleased with it.

What is interesting is I can solder under it at 20x with no soldering iron "jitter" the 20x magnification is included within the eye-hand optical feedback loop. It's probably obvious, but I had never though much about it.

Interesting, how did you do the plating?

Barry

Search Amazon.com for "Digital Blue QX3". This is actually a kids toy, but I saw one demo'd at a store several years ago and immediately thought of using it for rework and micro level photos. Never got up the energy to order one and try it out. From the simplicity end, it's hard to beat. Even replacement lenses for real microscopes are more expensive.

Chris

Yes..I'm also aware of the QX3.. But I like the digital camera idea more ..

1) A digital camera that can be used anywhere...vacation footage..etc.. 2) Digital camera quality will most likely exceed the QX3 3) I've been told used macro lens (Ebay) are cheap. (DIY attachment)

I like buying stuff that's good enough for multipurpose.. D from BC

AKA Intel Play QX3. Forget it, the software sucks. It doesn't do real-time video, just a series of shots about a second apart. Quite jumpy. The lenses are cheap plastic, and have too much distortion. I have one that hasn't been used in five years. it can take 30 seconds to focus the piece of junk, and there isn't enough clearance to solder under the cheap plastic nosepiece. IOW, don't waste your money.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I\'ve got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Mantis. Expensive but fabulous optics, great to work under.

John

That's what I use for inspection (not soldering). I use a 3.5x mag visor for actual soldering.

Sample shots:

parts on paper printouts

01005 cap at 200x

etched brass

I have a home made plating machine. I've got some chemicals used in the plating process you just poor in . I use variable 12 volt supply, put the source of material on the - probe and target on the + problem , then place them in the fluid and slowly turn up the current until i can see a small bubble action taking place. The reaction causes the material to be removed and carried over to the target. what I got is left overs from a coin shop that use to be in business. I remember years ago when I was a kid, I think I used a salt solution or something, it's been a while.

P.S. I use a glass bowl.. and I used nickel this last time as the plating material for experimentation. It seems to work, the tip it self is made from brass.

--
"I\'m never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

Baush and Lomb Stereo Zoom, easily purchased used. Get it with a heavy table and long arm. About $300. I saw a decent one at the last Livermore swap meet, though I didn't inqure to the price since I already have one.

I use the stereo zoom 3. I'm told the models with more magnification are not as well built inside, i.e. lots of plastic parts. While you can get a used scope relatively cheap, any replacement part you buy will be very expensive.

Here is a Stereo Zoom 4 on ebay:

I'd sure hate to pay freight on one of these beasts. If you can find it locally, you are much better off.

Illuminators are pricey if purchased new. That is actually a decent deal. You could probably roll your own illuminator with white leds. You may want to consider a glass filter on the bottom if you are going to do soldering. This will keep gunk off the optics. The B&L scopes are designed for such a filter.

Thanks for the link how ever, It appears that Ebay is having problems. The page is not responding at all at first, second attempt gives me an error page from Ebay reporting the page or function i'm trying to access is not working

oh well.

--
"I\'m never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

Jamie I've been happy with my old SteroZoom 3 bought on ebay. Its 7 - 35X (with the 10x ocular that seems to be most common). Plenty of range for small SMD parts. I usually keep it toward the 7x end, only using the high power occasionally. The long boom arm is a must. Mine is just weighted, not clamped. Lets me put the base at the back of the bench instead of the front. I don't think I'd like a clamp on the front of my bench.

Remember that the higher the power, the lower the depth of field, and the closer the object has to be to the lens when it's focused. So if there are tall components on the PCB, and you are focusing on solder pads on the surface nearby, sometimes the tall parts can hit the scope when trying to focus. I've encountered collisions working around connectors and vertical POL power supplies, for instance. So I reduce magnification or angle the board to focus - an inconvenience, but never a show stopper. If you look at the cheap models coming out of China, I think you'll find that their working distances are less than the better-made scopes. So this is something to consider when comparing models.

Recently bought a 48-LED ring light on ebay. Got tired of waiting for a good deal on a dual fiber. The LED is bright enough, and adjustable. Unlike the fiber, you can't change the light angle, so you do get reflections off the solder and components that you can't do much about. For instance, some IC markings are unreadable unless I dim the light, but its OK for the amount I use it.

Good luck, Steve