sport rocket staging timer

Some friends would like to build a down-sized model of a two-stage sounding rocket. I'm trying to come up with a design for a timer to ignite the second stage. The timer should be triggered by a "g" switch which marks first stage ignition, and time out after (an adjustable) 1.5-2 seconds, just after the first stage burns out. Commercial designs are available for around $90. I only need to build ONE of these andd don't have the programmer so a pic or BASIC STAMP are out. Any ideas or schematics for an analog or simple digital timer for this application?

Reply to
Smaug Ichorfang
Loading thread data ...

--
View in Courier:


Vcc>-+---------+-----+---+------+--------+
     |         |     |   |     8|        |
   [10K]     [10K] [1M]OUT
   | O              +|      |  GND  |    |
     |            [3.3µF]   +---+---+    |
     |             Ct|         1|        |
GND>-+---------------+----------+--------+


     T = 1.4 Rt Ct

JF
Reply to
John Fields

John Fields wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Reply to
Smaug Ichorfang

Depending what you have for a "g" switch, it could be as simple as one that detects the first instance of "0 g" after arming. That's the time of first-stage burnout, and time to light the second stage. No delay required, and no problem if the first stage burns a little bit longer or shorter than expected.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Reply to
Ecnerwal

Looks like that's going to fire the second stage at liftoff or immediately when g-switch drops out depending whether is it NO or NC. That circuit produces a pulsewidth of 1.4RC.

Reply to
Fred Bloggs

When I was a kid, Estes rocket motors were available with an "after-charge", which is basically a hole at the top of the motor that shoots hot gas into the nozzle of the second stage right at burn-out. So, no electronics, batteries, squibs, none of that schtuff was needed.

The idea of a 1.5-2 second timer with batteries and squib and all of that just seems ludicrous on a rocket where the first stage only lasts 1.5-2 seconds.

Good Luck! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

--
Aaarghhh!!!  How careless...

You\'re right. Good catch.

The timing ought to look like this:

        |
Reply to
John Fields

Long ago I made a 3 stage rocket with those types of motors. Never found the rocket afterward. :( There was a note inside..'If found please call......' Never got a call :(

And that was the last of my rocketery... Electronics looked better as a hobby. Breadboards don't take off and disappear. :P

D from BC British Columbia Canada

Reply to
D from BC

This brings back memories. I built a crappy home-made two stage rocket with Estes engines and built a simple electronic stager. It was so heavy the first stage only lifted to maybe 40-50 feet on a D engine. It consisted of a 9V battery IIRC, a mechanical microswitch and a simple monostable and SCR firing circuit. The key was to isolate the monostable with a diode-capacitor power supply so the voltage wouldn't drop when the SCR shorted the igniter across the battery. It worked. I'm sure I could get it much lighter nowadays.

Reply to
a7yvm109gf5d1

Rich Grise wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@example.net:

And you are no longer a kid. Black powder motors Estes sells are no longer a "kid". G-H-I (or bigger) composite motors having up to a hundred pounds of thrust or more for those few seconds are not "ludicrous". There are no methods to direct-stage a composite motor. The lower stage motor(s) will not have a delay/ejection like black powder motors do. BTW, they are not ignited with a "squib", they are ignited with either an ijniter or an electrical match. In fact, your entire post shows you have no concept whatsoever about the subject.

Reply to
Smaug Ichorfang

D from BC wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

called "ejection charge". On today's AP-composite motors,such hot gasses will not ignite a second stage,thus you need electronics and better igniters that use more current. also,hybrid motors using Nitrous oxide as the oxidizer must use electronic- actuated chute deployment.

"Model rocketry" has come a long way from the simple Estes motors of the

60's.

People now install loud beepers or RDF xmtrs in them to aid in finding a lost rocket.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
Reply to
Jim Yanik

--
Some of mine have. ;)

JF
Reply to
John Fields

Smaug Ichorfang wrote in news:Xns9A909501652Bgoblinbiter@207.115.17.102:

blah-blah-blaaaaa.....

Rich - I came down on you way too hard. I appologize for this. It's too easy to smack some one in the anonymity of teh intrapipes.

Reply to
Smaug Ichorfang

John Fields wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I think God really likes some of my rockets; He's kept enough of them. Either that or they just got "stuck".

Reply to
Smaug Ichorfang

Smaug Ichorfang wrote in news:Xns9A9140350562Bgoblinbiter@207.115.33.102:

are you doing any Large MR or HPR? level 1 or what? biggest I've flown is a G motor,about 2.5lbs of rocket,all scratch-built. (I'm not certified)

is R.M.R still flooded with spam?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
Reply to
Jim Yanik

Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns9A9157A6F52DCjyanikkuanet@

64.209.0.84:

I'm not certified either. I have only slightly more than zero money. I'm flying my fleet of re-built rockets until they're broken beyond repair* or lost. Only occasionally do I spring for a pack of black powder motors: mostly I fly with a saved-up selection of 24 and 29mm RMS reloads. Additionally, there is really no location we can fly anything very big in easy driving distance (central Oklahoma). Some folks drive about 100 miles to Sayre,OK to fly "big" stuff. People *have* flown G/H/I (and bigger) stuff on local fields, but it's really a bad idea.

Not right now. The little boy pumping out the sporgeries has decided to give it a break (or got filtered/shut down by his ISP). There is a lot of nonsense bickering and name calling though.

  • One of my biggest rockets is called "Fat Bastard". It started out as an Estes "Fat Boy". That crashed, and was rebuilt using plywood centering rings. *That* crashed and was rebuilt using ply centering rings punched out to 24mm and ply fins. THAT crashed and was rebuilt using a full-length
24" BT-60 body tube and a 24" "payload" section and fiberglass re-enforcing around aft end of body tube. The next crash/rebuild should be iinteresting...hmmm...carbon fiber?
Reply to
Smaug Ichorfang

The PIC starter kits are pretty cheap. $35 for the PICkit 2.

I think I've seen web pages for do-it-yourself programmers. I'm pretty sure an assembler is available.

--
These are my opinions, not necessarily my employer\'s.  I hate spam.
Reply to
Hal Murray

Found something I think will work well. Even buying the parts at retail+ (like radio Shack), the cost should be well below that of a commercial timer.

see:

formatting link

This should do until I decide to jump into the 1990's and get the equipment to program pic's.

The one mod I'm thinking about is to replace the "fire" transister with an SCR. Maybe not, just somethign to play with when I breadboard the circuit.

Reply to
Smaug Ichorfang

snipped-for-privacy@ip-64-139-1-69.sjc.megapath.net (Hal Murray) wrote in news:YaGdnYyQXPE7VIfVnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@megapath.net:

The problem is that a commercial timer is about the same cost as buying a programmer plus a few chips to play with (I found commercial timers for about $40). Come to think of it, I've got an old, new-in-box 68HC11EVBU I've never used. I suppose the thing to do (were I so inclined) would be to sell this on Ebay and buy the stuff to get started on pic programming.

Reply to
Smaug Ichorfang

Welcome to the 21 century :-)

Reply to
donald

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.