OT: Wood Staining Question

Den mandag den 20. januar 2014 19.06.51 UTC+1 skrev Jim Thompson:

in the old days a paste of wallpaper glue and NaOH, you can probably get something similar ready made with a fancy name

Then you'll have to sand it, and then who knows if it will stain evenly

-Lasse

Yep. Once upon a time I could just swipe something from the chem lab. Don't have one accessible anymore. ...Jim Thompson

Den mandag den 20. januar 2014 19.56.43 UTC+1 skrev Jim Thompson:

NaOH available at every supermarket, used as drain cleaner

-Lasse

see if nestork responds to you in alt.home.repair

I know there's a woodworking group, but don't know its name

You'll find that bamboo has a distinct yellow tinge to it and you'll have adjust if you wish to match to anything else.

Also, the finish may be 'baked' into it, like in flooring and/or epoxy coating and will be a rel b**** to remove.

Thanks for the tip, Robert! ...Jim Thompson

just remembered.

One time I went the full route: Stripeze all over the finish, didn't work? more Stripeze may be a bad batch of stripper? no, seems to have removed everything where I'm working, but doesn't want to touch the original finish!, then rinse and rinse, try to get the cloudy muck off, then sand and sand and why bother, why not just sand the finish off to begin with and save money and mess? Then the stain still went on badly, looked a bit amateurish when done. Seems that old finish still sealed some areas just like soaked in some places, not others. So, the next time, I left the enameled/baked on whatever finish ON the wood and stained over it with a stain to darken to the desired range. Left all the wood grain intact and had the advantage of very little prep work. That single stain coating OVER the original finish? looked great!

Uh, one more thing take advantage of working on a HORIZONTAL surface, it's worth it to lay it down and let everything 'puddle' and flatten, not streak and run down.

A tip on final finish if you sand, vacuum thoroughly then wipe with TAC rag [there must be some kind of 'wetting' chemical in there that makes finishes just flow on. Then take the clear finish, pour into clean discardable container, take new brush, dip [do NOT wipe brush, instead let drip or shake off excess NEVER wipe on the container's edge] then flow on the finish ONCE! You'll see little 'dimples' and flaws in the finish, don't panic. Allow 24 hours and then gently sand using 300 to 400 grain wet n dry sandpaper and use a wetting agent to pick up stuff [Jet-Dri in distilled water] on a CHEAP paper towel, or lintless cloth [you have access to those Class 10 clean rooms, right?] Why cheap paper towel? No plastics No chemical additives. Then get another new brush and another new container and flow on aother coat. This time you'll see almost NO dimples and few flaws. Now it gets arbitrary. Repeat or decide enough. If enough, wet n dry one more time but this time use the driest brush possible to just 'wet' the hazy sanding streaks. When you're done, the finish will look like it was sprayed on at the factory. Uniform, flat, and even when the light catches it it still looks flat.

Hey, give me a subject and I can talk an hour, ...and often have.

news:rec.crafts.woodworking

If you're determined to remove the top coat: Alcohol is the solvent for shellac. Laq thinner is the solvent for lacquer. Poly requires stripping with paint remover. However, you can also just apply the stain on top of the existing top coat. Sand first using 320 grit paper. Vacuum or blow it clean of any dust. Apply stain. Let dry. Apply new top coat. Art

Also: rec.woodworking

NO! NaOH will separate the bamboo fibers and make a mess. Bamboo is a grass, used (among other things) to make paper, in a lye-based process that separates the fibers. Test first on a bamboo chopstick or three...

I'd use an opaque stain (or paint) instead.

Probably the best and safest way is to sand it off. Takes time but then it will probably come out the best. No chemicals in the house either.

I would just sand it. If you don't feel like it do what I do, flip someone a few bucks to do it.

Separating the fibers is not that easy. There is NaOH in the digester liquor when making cellulose or paper, but there must be some sulphur to crack the lignine bonds and plenty of heat and pressure plus time.

With a good piece, you don't want to use sandpaper because you lose the patina. Paint stripper and steel wool is the ticket.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs