They were predicting a 3 foot wave on the Oregon coast but reduced that to 1 foot after they got some data from ocean buoys.
It'll be low tide when the first wave hits, which will mitigate things somewhat. Untrained observers may not notice the level change. But these things can cause very strong currents. So they advise people to stay out of the water. Or they might end up hundreds of feet from shore in a few seconds.