ing after reading this

Yes, CCS is probably overkill for me.

I will probably use a simple protocol like LIN (Local Interconnecting Network) to manage my external batteries and chargers. Assuming that the current draw is proportional to the battery capacity, vehicle A (13-8) would draw around 40% of the peak current. Vehicle B (10-8-4) would draw 60% if both external batteries are enabled.

I have a 30A circuit breaker on the external link. So far, it's holding up. But a 80 kw motor could draw 200A peak current.

Vandalism by any other name still leaves you with a broken connector. Get it fixed.

You are still the same loon you have always been. Happy to post unconfirmed information.

Whatever. As usual your posts are not worth reading.

It's not my charger/plug. How can i fix it?

Easy enough to confirm it. I'll do it next week.

This is a plug without top latch:

Fine. You don't have to read them.

I said "get it fixed". If you don't understand that, there's no hope for you.

That is the best advice you've ever given.

If you mean fixing the battery, then i did. I now have 70 to 80 miles with 13+8 kwhr, 100 miles with 13+8+8.

Yes, stop read my posts and reply. You are annoying other readers.

Yes, you might want to contact Phoenix Contact and find out what's up with that.

Yes, I am warning other readers. You are right.

And many other plug and car manufacturers that i have no idea with. Most likely, the EV just lock the power pins, not the signal pins.

I have no idea what you are talking about "locking pins". Either the connector is locked, or nothing is locked.

I just realized why the connector has the button. That informs the system the user is about to detach the connector, so the power can be interrupted. I know on the J1772 connector it is required. I can't imagine it is not required on the CCS1 connector.

So don't use a charger with a broken connector. It can be dangerous.

The locking square holes on side of the connector. Most vehicle lock the pair of holes next to the power pins. ,

power can be interrupted. I know on the J1772 connector it is required. I can't imagine it is not required on the CCS1 connector.

CCS locking is controlled by the charger and EV not by the user. I think you know less about CCS than me, which is low already.

Yes it is. All poorly designed CCS are dangerous. All it take is one bad CCS to crash the EV. Not a big deal for me, but for people without the tools on hand. It would need a tow to the shop.

On Saturday, 30 July 2022 at 10:45:33 UTC-7, Ed Lee wrote: ...

The Proximity Pilot (PP) signal signals the EV that the user has pressed the latch release button.

The EV can then disable charging so there is no current flowing when the plug is pulled and release the plug latch if present.

In a normal cable the EVSE/DC charger does not get the proximity pilot signal so doesn't know whether the button has been pressed.

kw

Cars spend 95% of their time parked. Two to fours miles per hour forever translates to 40 to 80 MPH while they aren't parked, and that wimpy 120V extension cord must have a very limited current capacity. Put a heavy duty socket next to where the e-car is normally parked and you should be able to do better, but John Larkin doesn't know enough about electric wiring to be aware of this.

Not everybody can install a gas pump at home. Everybody got 120V outlet at home.

But i park my car mostly in the street, sometimes moving it once a week for street cleaning. So, sometimes i drive a few miles per week and sometimes hundred miles a day.

Once electric cars get more popular, street parking will probably include access to charging. The charger will have to be clever enough to know whose car is it is charging, and who to bill for the charge delivered, but that's trivial. Apparently Canadian parking meters already come with a power plug to drive the radiator warmer to keep the radiator from freezing solid in winter.

The pin is in the connector. Are you saying they don't include a wire in the cable for it? Yeah, looks that way. Odd.

I suppose the EVSE doesn't need to know the user has pressed the button. The car lets the EVSE know the charging has ended through the control pilot signal. They don't show that very clearly in the various docs I can find. But it seems the car removes the 1300 ohm resistor from in parallel with the 2.7k resistor, which tells the EVSE that charging has ended.

I don't think DC chargers take any action with the proximity pin. I only use the CDM plug, but probably work the same with CCS. When you plug it into the vehicle, the charger does not initiate, you have to press a button on the touch screen (or with an RFID card) first. It run an insulation test. Probably locking and testing the DC power connection. That mean it did not do anything before your pressing the button on the screen. Problem is that you are at the charger and not at the vehicle to hold the plug while the charger is trying to lock the plug. If it does not lock properly, we have a problem.

That's for J1772. DC charger only use PLC over CP. Unfortunately, nothing about the protocol available.

When i am not doing road trip, I just charge it for an hour or two once a week. There are usually space for free charging early in the morning around 7am to 8am. I have to move it for street cleaning anyway.

When i have the solar panel, i would not need to charge it at all. But i have to work on shunt regulating the batteries first. Even 100w can overcharge them in a week.

If you run the solar panels through an inverter, you will be able to use the existing controller and not have any fear of damaging the battery, the precious, expensive battery.

Yes, but i need to balance them anyway. I have 32x 12V modules. The stronger one should be shunted out at 12.6V. It is necessary for solar and regular charging.

But if i only drive one mile or two to Safeway (only reason i need to drive) a week. It will be 6kW in two weeks.

Lead acid don't care much about 100% SOC. It's deadly for Lithium.