Fluorescent ballasts anyone?

as

else

I know that the tubes that use a simple magnetic ballast and an a igniter of some sort are different - I imported some equipment that had a setup like this and was set up for European power. The bulbs would work fine off 208V

60Hz using the original setup. They would not ignite off of an instant start electronic ballast designed for T8's and T12's. There were some smaller fixtures with T8's, and they seem to be the same, and work fine after a ballast change.

Go to google, type in: 40W t5 ballast - you should get a ton of hits relating to usable ballasts. 40W means the electrical power, and T5 denotes, the tube's electrical characteristics. The rest of your bulb type does not matter, electrically, since that is the light output type, coatings, rated life, and physical size and shape of the tube, pins, etc.

The other option is to ask the company where you bought the tubes what ballast to use.

Jeff

is

almost

I

that

with

As

bulb

signs

collective

which

T8,

like

something

I

has

understand

It does. Germicidal T5 bulbs are very different from regular T5s. Electrically different. Despite having the same diameter. They will NOT work (at least reliably) with regular T5 ballast. However they DO work fine with a regular T12 ballast be it switch start, rapid or instant start, magnetic or electronic.

I do already run a couple of G36T5VH bulbs off of $20 electronic 2 x 48W T12 instant start ballast (Workhorse) and they are fine.

I did also run a couple of preheat T5 germicidal bulbs with $18 Electronic Rapid Start 2 x 40W T12 ballast from Home Depot and they are also quite happy.

Those germicidal lamps, if they are regular, not HO or VHO, all have 425 mA working current. Regular T5s are different and they are not designed to run from anything but high frequency electronic ballast at all. Regular T12 are usually run at 430 mA. T12 HO are 800 mA (exactly as germicidal T5 HO) and T12 VHO are 1.5 A (exactly as germicidal T5 VHO.)

--
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is

You haven't dipped your wick in ozone producing lamps have you? Really read the posts and learn. Do OP a favor and google before posting pure opinion.

--
JosephKK
Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
--Schiller

and

with

fit

exclusive

is

Ozone producing lamps are never, never sold at home improvement stores. Old regular "old, old standard" ballast (ca 1940) should work fine. The lamp was described a a preheat type, was it not. Working ballasts for such lamps are a bit hard to find now.

OP lamps have a different glass that transmits the ozone producing line. Germicidal lamps do not normally pass this line for safety reasons.

--
JosephKK
Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
--Schiller

water:

method

Actually ozone producing lamps are sufficiently efficient to be used a municipal water supply disinfectant, and are used so regularly. Wow, it was about 20 years ago that i provided professional input to a decision to use ozone or chloramines in such a plant.

--
JosephKK
Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
--Schiller

ozone

power.

for

Thank you Sergey, that is solid testimony to the disinfecting power of ozone. Moreover the long lasting toxicity of chloramines and long term exposure problems are starting to be documented.

--
JosephKK
Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
--Schiller

Hi Joseph,

I have a question. I use pure distilled water in a silver electrolysis process.

Sometimes there are problems that appear to be due to something in the water, and changing vendors often helps. The conductance of different vendor's products measured with a Hanna Pure Water Tester can range from

0.6uS to 1.2uS. So there is nothing obvious in the measurement that points to something in the water, but it sure doesn't work very well.

Do you have more information on problems with chloramines, particularly how to detect their presence, what effects they may have on an elctrolysis process, and how to remove them from the water?

Thanks! Regards,

Mike Monett

Watch out for de-ionized water,which they try to sell as distilled water,because all the gunk that was not ionized is still present, and might de-compose when subjected to heat/pressure/aging etc. Distilled water should be free of that. At most gas stations they seem to try to sell you de-ionized.

On Sat, 08 Jul 2006 18:18:56 +0000, Jeff L top-posted:

Actually, T-5 refers to the physical form factor of the bulb. In this case, it's tubular, 5/8" diameter. It doesn't say anything about phosphors or anything, and it doesn't say anything about the electrical characteristics; that's covered by "40W" and whether it's quick-start and stuff like that.

Cheers! Rich

how

I have discovered that a lot of what is sold at the grocery store as distilled water or de-ionized water is just filtered water. They both can all kinds of junk in them including particulates. If you actually have a sensitive industrial process going you need to look into industrial grades of distilled and de-ionized water. The properties of the two are a little different, so read up on the differences and select what you need. Finally, semiconductor process water or pharmaceutical process water is the purest available and is only made on the spot. It is next to impossible to keep water that pure for long because at that purity is truly is the universal solvent. Average impurities < 10 parts per trillion (10^12) or better, both industries are looking for less than 1 part in 10^21.

--
JosephKK
Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
--Schiller