DIP placement with heavy gauge PCBs

couldn't you use wire wrap dil sockets?

martin

Soldering shouldn't be an issue even if the lead is not visible, if you use proper plated-through holes. But if the holes are too large, the desired wicking effect might not work as reliably, so I'd use the ordinary hole size. Afterwards you can inspect the joints from the top. Or, you could use SMD parts.

you don't say if the holes are hru-plated? if so, assuming all other factors are ok, they should solder in nicely.

You should be able to get a rectangular depression with rounded corners machined into the board so the package will sit lower. It's called a "milled pocket". There is a lower limit to the internal radius (caused by the cutter radius, of course)-- too small a radius and it will take too long to make or the cutter will break too easily. Think of something like a 0.05"~0.1" radius. You won't be able to reliably run conductors over the milled edge, so if it's a two-sided board you'll have to run all the conductors from the opposite side to the milled depression. SMT DIP sockets might end up being cheaper.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

--
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Screw terminals don't work well on pcb fiberglass. They can work loose.

Use a proper connector with screw terminals, and provide support under the pcb to handle any excessive force.

Now you can use a standard pcb thickness and solve the DIP problem!

Regards,

Mike Monett

"Bruce Varley" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:4657e6cd$ snipped-for-privacy@quokka.wn.com.au...

Hello,

It's named back drilling. I's sometimes used to shorten the via-stub of traces used for very high speed signals.

You will find a lot of links with Google: back drilling.

Best regards, Helmut

"Bruce Varley"

** Install the DIPs on the copper side of the PCB - don't matter a damn how thick it is then.

....... Phil

You don't need a thick PCB.

Put rubber feet or standoffs behind where the phoenix connector is placed. Rubber feet also help you to withstand vibration.

Milmax 111-XX-YZZ-41-001100 XX=plating type 13 for gold Y=width in 0.1 inch ZZ=number of pins

Are the screws squeezing the board? If so, the epoxy will cold-flow over time, and the screws will loosen. If there's much current flowing, the screws will get hot and the process will run away.

Use a regular board thickness. It will compress *less* for a given screw pressure. Use belleville washers to define the compression force or, better yet, use barrier strips that don't depend on board compression at all.

John

I've done the opposite, countersinking holes before they were plated. The shiny funnels look cool, and countersunk screw heads can be flush with the board surface.

John

if you get no answer here try sci.electronics.manufacture

plate thru holes could be anorther solution, sticking the dips in wire-wrap sockets (which have long pins) yet another.

--

Bye.
   Jasen

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys.

NO,.

screwdriver is

through

unreliable. The

non-copper

board. Do

this

If such a process were conducted by any pcb maker (which it isn't) it would probably be termed "counterboring".

I can suggest two options. One is to use wire wrap dil IC sockets because these have longer legs than standard sockets (simply cut off the excess length). The second is to use individual turned pin sockets which were made by companies such as Cambion back in the 70's. These items were much longer than a standard pin on a dil IC and would extend through to the copper layer on a thicker pcb.Due to their diameter thay are only suitable for standard 0.1" pitch dil IC's - and they are/were expensive.

I am sure I still have some of these in stock.

screwdriver is

through

unreliable. The

non-copper

board. Do

this

Apologies,I didn't see that this post had been thoroughly answered in a previous thread (since it didn't show up with a RE: prefix).