e:
:rote:
:T of filtering in a
good regulation,
Ergo, no need to
it perform more poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the th reshold set point more critical.
I have and found it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it . I had previously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and wa s told it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead a cid battery. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would c ook the battery, no?
usible link to prevent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at all? How accurate was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
rather than questions. The cheap meter is of unknown accuracy, but unless it is just plain broken, it should be within a tenth of a volt or so, no?
up the data on lead acid batteries an any temp you would expect to encount er in the lower 48 states, 14.7 volts will be causing the battery to gas. Do that too long and it causes problems. I have no reason to believe the c ar has wiring that would cause a volt of drop from routine loads. Even the n it's hard to believe this voltage would be seen by the accessory socket a nd not the battery. More likely the other voltages in the car would be low er than the battery, not higher.
ower voltage than a high impedance load connected to the alternator. It is current flow, not just voltage that generates hydrogen and oxygen in a lead cell battery.
the battery varies with the state of charge. You can provide a small amou nt of current to trickle charge a battery and it won't gas. Run too much c urrent into a fully charged lead acid battery and the voltage will rise and and gas will be produced. A car will run a higher current into a depleted battery and the voltage will not be 14.7 and gas will not be produced.
en when charging the battery because they are appropriately sized.
lost in the stock battery cables while starting a Pontiac 389 engine.
GING currents. Do you think I was measuring the voltage on the accessory j ack when starting my ELECTRIC car?
that has no starter. Stop being a Sloman!
rs to reduce the losses to a lower level.
new 1AWG Welding cable, in spite of being warmed that heavier cables would burn up the starter. Typical starting currents were 90A, but I have seen 4
00A on high compression engines when they were hot.u would see that their are I/R losses between the Alternator and the batter y. The wire between the two isn't that heavy. Just heavy enough to carry th e rated output of the alternator. Add the voltage drop across the Fusible L ink, and you can lose several tenths of a volt. A fuse can't operate near its current rating without a drop to generate the required heat to fuse the circuit.
see some tenths of a volt on cables. That's not VOLTS.
e wire. I have personally seen several volts dropped on Battery cables whil e troubleshooting a starting problem on a car. I measured the negative lead between the battery and the engine block. The Positive was from the batter y clamp, to the solenoid. I also had just under .2 volts across the solenoi d's contacts.
It is a toy to entertain motorheads. It could be off half a volt, or more . Just like the cheap meters for USB testing.
with a good meter. I have a couple of old Flukes that are still very accu rate.
ow they are inaccurate? It seems an easy job to make one that is within a few percent so until I see some anomalous readings I'm not going to assume what I saw was garbage.
s 'easy' to make an accurate meter, it is easier to make crap. Open that me ter and you'll find a low grade PC board, . Most likely it will have an ope n frame trim pot. If it is a good meter, why does it only show to a tenth o f a volt? A 2.5 digit meter? I have a cheap AC line voltage monitor. It rea ds almost 10 volts high, compared to any of my DMMs, including the Fluke 80
50 and other lab grade models. That is an eight percent error. It was only one volt off, the first day. The next day it was showing over 130VAC. I've done work as an industrial electrician, at transmitter sites and other miss ion critical sites as the Engineer on site, so don't try to BS me.ut probes on. It's hard to check the voltage with both meters at the same time. The reason I bought the accessory socket meter is because it's hard to check the voltage with a regular meter at all.
pare well to any of the several other meters I have. I also found an acces sory socket meter I bought months ago but never took out of the package. I t has a much smaller display though. I have a socket splitter I can use to plug in both meters at once. lol
ou have how many USB meters to test? A sample of one only proves that you a re a liar or a moron. Ask Jeff Lieberman about them, and about the cheap DC digital panel meters out there.
arting. I was specifically talking about the voltages I measured on my car .
show any sort of voltage drop you can imagine. The conversation was about charging batteries, not trouble shooting bad wiring and connections.
r own experiences which are typically not relevant.
Another attempt by you to move the goalposts, as usual. Those battery cable s would become hot to the touch, so it wasn't bad connectors. Deny it all y ou want, but I/R losses exist in every electrical power distribution system . Your poorly remembered Physics classes would show you why. You pull this crap every time you paint yourself into a corner. I really don't care that you refuse to face reality. Maybe it will strand you someplace for days or weeks, to give you time to think. You might even survive it, if you are sma rt enough to survive on your own.
BTW, those vehicles were from the '60s through the '80s. There were two boa ts at amusement parks, as well. The original 1940's engines were replaced w ith '60s Chevy 283, V8 engines, and I converted them to a dual battery elec trical system to eliminate starting problems from the lights and sound syst ems that were running while docked. Real world hardware. Not the fantasies, that you prefer.