As I pointed out, just use the primary ignition pulse to drive a transistor that switches a relay to the camera power. That way the camera is only on when the engine is running. Every other way is much more complicated and asking for problems.
a
Not only will hysteresis not help, it will make the circuit perform more po orly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshold set point more critical.
I plugged a lighter socket volt meter into the loaner car I have and found it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had previousl y asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it was a st andard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid battery. Mayb e this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the battery, n o?
-- Rick C. -+-- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging -+-- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Try a scope.
There ar so many different situations, I remember starting with -10 degrees C, what that can do your battery (impedance) switching headlights, other stuff, hey use the ignition primary pulse !!!!!!
n a
, opoorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshold set poin t more critical.
d it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had previou sly asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid battery. Ma ybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the battery, no?
So, the entire vehicle was wired with superconductors? No fusible link to p revent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at all? How accurat e was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
On Tuesday, 19 November 2019 06:42:52 UTC-8, Rick C wrote: ...
poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshold set poin t more critical.
d it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had previou sly asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid battery. Ma ybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the battery, no? ...
If you had waited a bit I expect the voltage would have gone down, probably to 12.8V or even 12.5V
Modern lead-acid battery charging systems vary the charging voltage dependi ng upon a number of factors including, recent usage, temperature, battery c harging current, age of battery and even throttle/brake position. Many mode rn cars have current sensors on the battery (often a hall-effect sensor on the battery ground lead).
In a Chevy maintenance manual it even described a special charging algorith m that is used for the first 500 miles of running to.
kw
That same car is reading 13.7 volts today. What would a scope do that would be useful in this case?
-- Rick C. -+-+ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging -+-+ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
in a
on,
to
e poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshold set po int more critical.
und it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had previ ously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid battery. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the batter y, no?
prevent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at all? How accur ate was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
You ask some very odd questions which clearly are statements rather than qu estions. The cheap meter is of unknown accuracy, but unless it is just pla in broken, it should be within a tenth of a volt or so, no? The temp was a
n lead acid batteries an any temp you would expect to encounter in the lowe r 48 states, 14.7 volts will be causing the battery to gas. Do that too lo ng and it causes problems. I have no reason to believe the car has wiring that would cause a volt of drop from routine loads. Even then it's hard to believe this voltage would be seen by the accessory socket and not the bat tery. More likely the other voltages in the car would be lower than the ba ttery, not higher.
-- Rick C. -++- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging -++- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
e poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshold set po int more critical.
und it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had previ ously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid battery. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the batter y, no?
ly to 12.8V or even 12.5V
What makes you think I didn't wait. I tried turning off the car, but that is hard to do actually. Even then, I think the accessory socket is off whe n the car is off. This is a Tesla and the 12 volt battery is charged from the high voltage battery, as needed. Even so, 14.7 volts is too high. Che ck any of the many references on lead acid batteries and they will tell you that voltage causes gassing and shortens the battery life.
ding upon a number of factors including, recent usage, temperature, battery charging current, age of battery and even throttle/brake position. Many mo dern cars have current sensors on the battery (often a hall-effect sensor o n the battery ground lead).
thm that is used for the first 500 miles of running to.
Does it charge the battery at 14.7 volts?
-- Rick C. -+++ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging -+++ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
e:
ng in a
tion,
ed to
ore poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshold set point more critical.
found it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had pre viously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it wa s a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid battery. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the batt ery, no?
to prevent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at all? How acc urate was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
questions. The cheap meter is of unknown accuracy, but unless it is just p lain broken, it should be within a tenth of a volt or so, no? The temp was
on lead acid batteries an any temp you would expect to encounter in the lo wer 48 states, 14.7 volts will be causing the battery to gas. Do that too long and it causes problems. I have no reason to believe the car has wirin g that would cause a volt of drop from routine loads. Even then it's hard to believe this voltage would be seen by the accessory socket and not the b attery. More likely the other voltages in the car would be lower than the battery, not higher.
If much current is flowing into the battery, it will be at a lower voltage than a high impedance load connected to the alternator. It is current flow , not just voltage that generates hydrogen and oxygen in a lead cell batter y.
That cheap meter could show anything, it isn't test equipment. It is a toy to entertain motorheads. It could be off half a volt, or more. Just like the cheap meters for USB testing.
I'm really not sure what you mean by "primary ignition pulse" to be honest, Jan. 40 or 50 years ago, it would make sense, with the old distributor/points/condenser set up all petrol cars had back then. Today it's not so simple. Sure there are still primary low voltage pulses to the ignition coil (or coils plural in some cases) but how would I find them? Have you seen the massive bundle of trunked signal wiring that modern cars have tucked away out of sight - and equally importantly, reach? Your idea may be sound in theory, but from the practical standpoint, it'd be a nightmare to implement!
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e:
ote:
ring in a
lation,
need to
more poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshold se t point more critical.
d found it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had p reviously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid batter y. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the ba ttery, no?
k to prevent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at all? How a ccurate was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
n questions. The cheap meter is of unknown accuracy, but unless it is just plain broken, it should be within a tenth of a volt or so, no? The temp w
ta on lead acid batteries an any temp you would expect to encounter in the lower 48 states, 14.7 volts will be causing the battery to gas. Do that to o long and it causes problems. I have no reason to believe the car has wir ing that would cause a volt of drop from routine loads. Even then it's har d to believe this voltage would be seen by the accessory socket and not the battery. More likely the other voltages in the car would be lower than th e battery, not higher.
ge than a high impedance load connected to the alternator. It is current fl ow, not just voltage that generates hydrogen and oxygen in a lead cell batt ery.
Not sure what you are trying to say. The open circuit voltage of the batte ry varies with the state of charge. You can provide a small amount of curr ent to trickle charge a battery and it won't gas. Run too much current int o a fully charged lead acid battery and the voltage will rise and and gas w ill be produced. A car will run a higher current into a depleted battery a nd the voltage will not be 14.7 and gas will not be produced.
The cables to a car battery will not be dropping much voltage, even when ch arging the battery because they are appropriately sized.
y to entertain motorheads. It could be off half a volt, or more. Just lik e the cheap meters for USB testing.
That is true. When I return home I will verify the voltage meter with a go od meter. I have a couple of old Flukes that are still very accurate.
Have you ever tested the cheap meters for USB testing? Do you know they ar e inaccurate? It seems an easy job to make one that is within a few percen t so until I see some anomalous readings I'm not going to assume what I saw was garbage.
-- Rick C. +--- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging +--- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
ending upon a number of factors including, recent usage, temperature, batte ry charging current, age of battery and even throttle/brake position. Many modern cars have current sensors on the battery (often a hall-effect sensor on the battery ground lead).
rithm that is used for the first 500 miles of running to.
Under some conditions - yes; It could be up to 15.5V in "Battery Sulfation Mode". When the headlamps are on up to 14.5V. When it considers the battery charged and other conditions are met it would be in the range 12.9-13.2V.
Tesla used to have a reputation for destroying 12V batteries in as little a s 6 months because they are constantly cycled. I haven't heard of that prob lem in the last few years.
My Model 3 is just over a year old without any issues. I'll have to log the 12v battery voltage to see what it does.
kw
Whereas you do the exact opposite.
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epending upon a number of factors including, recent usage, temperature, bat tery charging current, age of battery and even throttle/brake position. Man y modern cars have current sensors on the battery (often a hall-effect sens or on the battery ground lead).
gorithm that is used for the first 500 miles of running to.
n Mode". When the headlamps are on up to 14.5V. When it considers the batte ry charged and other conditions are met it would be in the range 12.9-13.2V .
as 6 months because they are constantly cycled. I haven't heard of that pr oblem in the last few years.
he 12v battery voltage to see what it does.
What do you log with? I haven't done any of that yet. In general I'm a ge ar head wanting to know everything I can about a car, but I'm a bit fed up with it all and right now I just want to enjoy how good it feels to mash th e accelerator and feel it surge up to speed. The near silence on some road s is pretty amazing too. I understand they use foam liners in the tires to absorb some of the tire noise.
I would like to monitor my energy usage in more detail though. My local dr iving eats up the battery faster than anything else. I'd like to see detai ls on where it's going.
-- Rick C. +--+ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging +--+ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
ote:
tering in a
gulation,
o need to
rm more poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshold set point more critical.
and found it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had previously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told i t was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid batt ery. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the battery, no?
ink to prevent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at all? How accurate was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
han questions. The cheap meter is of unknown accuracy, but unless it is ju st plain broken, it should be within a tenth of a volt or so, no? The temp
data on lead acid batteries an any temp you would expect to encounter in th e lower 48 states, 14.7 volts will be causing the battery to gas. Do that too long and it causes problems. I have no reason to believe the car has w iring that would cause a volt of drop from routine loads. Even then it's h ard to believe this voltage would be seen by the accessory socket and not t he battery. More likely the other voltages in the car would be lower than the battery, not higher.
tage than a high impedance load connected to the alternator. It is current flow, not just voltage that generates hydrogen and oxygen in a lead cell ba ttery.
tery varies with the state of charge. You can provide a small amount of cu rrent to trickle charge a battery and it won't gas. Run too much current i nto a fully charged lead acid battery and the voltage will rise and and gas will be produced. A car will run a higher current into a depleted battery and the voltage will not be 14.7 and gas will not be produced.
charging the battery because they are appropriately sized.
Have you ever measured the drop? I have. I have seen over six volts lost in the stock battery cables while starting a Pontiac 389 engine. It was still close to two volts, after I replaced those cables with new 1AWG Welding ca ble, in spite of being warmed that heavier cables would burn up the starter . Typical starting currents were 90A, but I have seen 400A on high compress ion engines when they were hot.
If you ever troubleshot IC engine cars with lead acid batteries, you would see that their are I/R losses between the Alternator and the battery. The w ire between the two isn't that heavy. Just heavy enough to carry the rated output of the alternator. Add the voltage drop across the Fusible Link, an d you can lose several tenths of a volt. A fuse can't operate near its curr ent rating without a drop to generate the required heat to fuse the circuit .
toy to entertain motorheads. It could be off half a volt, or more. Just l ike the cheap meters for USB testing.
good meter. I have a couple of old Flukes that are still very accurate.
are inaccurate? It seems an easy job to make one that is within a few perc ent so until I see some anomalous readings I'm not going to assume what I s aw was garbage.
Their low quality has been discussed online in the past. While it is 'easy' to make an accurate meter, it is easier to make crap. Open that meter and you'll find a low grade PC board, . Most likely it will have an open frame trim pot. If it is a good meter, why does it only show to a tenth of a volt ? A 2.5 digit meter? I have a cheap AC line voltage monitor. It reads almos t 10 volts high, compared to any of my DMMs, including the Fluke 8050 and o ther lab grade models. That is an eight percent error. It was only one volt off, the first day. The next day it was showing over 130VAC. I've done wor k as an industrial electrician, at transmitter sites and other mission crit ical sites as the Engineer on site, so don't try to BS me.
e:
iltering in a
regulation,
no need to
form more poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the threshol d set point more critical.
e and found it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I h ad previously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid ba ttery. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook th e battery, no?
link to prevent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at all? H ow accurate was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
than questions. The cheap meter is of unknown accuracy, but unless it is just plain broken, it should be within a tenth of a volt or so, no? The te
e data on lead acid batteries an any temp you would expect to encounter in the lower 48 states, 14.7 volts will be causing the battery to gas. Do tha t too long and it causes problems. I have no reason to believe the car has wiring that would cause a volt of drop from routine loads. Even then it's hard to believe this voltage would be seen by the accessory socket and not the battery. More likely the other voltages in the car would be lower tha n the battery, not higher.
oltage than a high impedance load connected to the alternator. It is curren t flow, not just voltage that generates hydrogen and oxygen in a lead cell battery.
attery varies with the state of charge. You can provide a small amount of current to trickle charge a battery and it won't gas. Run too much current into a fully charged lead acid battery and the voltage will rise and and g as will be produced. A car will run a higher current into a depleted batte ry and the voltage will not be 14.7 and gas will not be produced.
n charging the battery because they are appropriately sized.
in the stock battery cables while starting a Pontiac 389 engine.
Yes, of course starting currents will drop a some volts. I said CHARGING c urrents. Do you think I was measuring the voltage on the accessory jack wh en starting my ELECTRIC car?
AWG Welding cable, in spite of being warmed that heavier cables would burn up the starter. Typical starting currents were 90A, but I have seen 400A on high compression engines when they were hot.
d see that their are I/R losses between the Alternator and the battery. The wire between the two isn't that heavy. Just heavy enough to carry the rate d output of the alternator. Add the voltage drop across the Fusible Link, and you can lose several tenths of a volt. A fuse can't operate near its cu rrent rating without a drop to generate the required heat to fuse the circu it.
I don't think they even use fusible links anymore. But yes, you will see s ome tenths of a volt on cables. That's not VOLTS.
a toy to entertain motorheads. It could be off half a volt, or more. Just like the cheap meters for USB testing.
a good meter. I have a couple of old Flukes that are still very accurate.
y are inaccurate? It seems an easy job to make one that is within a few pe rcent so until I see some anomalous readings I'm not going to assume what I saw was garbage.
y' to make an accurate meter, it is easier to make crap. Open that meter an d you'll find a low grade PC board, . Most likely it will have an open fram e trim pot. If it is a good meter, why does it only show to a tenth of a vo lt? A 2.5 digit meter? I have a cheap AC line voltage monitor. It reads alm ost 10 volts high, compared to any of my DMMs, including the Fluke 8050 and other lab grade models. That is an eight percent error. It was only one vo lt off, the first day. The next day it was showing over 130VAC. I've done w ork as an industrial electrician, at transmitter sites and other mission cr itical sites as the Engineer on site, so don't try to BS me.
I said I will check this meter when I get access to a vehicle I can put pro bes on. It's hard to check the voltage with both meters at the same time. The reason I bought the accessory socket meter is because it's hard to che ck the voltage with a regular meter at all.
I also have one of those USB meters you bad mouth and it seems to compare w ell to any of the several other meters I have. I also found an accessory s ocket meter I bought months ago but never took out of the package. It has a much smaller display though. I have a socket splitter I can use to plug in both meters at once. lol
-- Rick C. +-+- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging +-+- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Show the crap on the supply.
te:
ote:
:filtering in a
d regulation,
o, no need to
erform more poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the thresh old set point more critical.
ave and found it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had previously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was to ld it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead acid battery. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would cook the battery, no?
le link to prevent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at all? How accurate was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
er than questions. The cheap meter is of unknown accuracy, but unless it i s just plain broken, it should be within a tenth of a volt or so, no? The
the data on lead acid batteries an any temp you would expect to encounter i n the lower 48 states, 14.7 volts will be causing the battery to gas. Do t hat too long and it causes problems. I have no reason to believe the car h as wiring that would cause a volt of drop from routine loads. Even then it 's hard to believe this voltage would be seen by the accessory socket and n ot the battery. More likely the other voltages in the car would be lower t han the battery, not higher.
voltage than a high impedance load connected to the alternator. It is curr ent flow, not just voltage that generates hydrogen and oxygen in a lead cel l battery.
battery varies with the state of charge. You can provide a small amount o f current to trickle charge a battery and it won't gas. Run too much curre nt into a fully charged lead acid battery and the voltage will rise and and gas will be produced. A car will run a higher current into a depleted bat tery and the voltage will not be 14.7 and gas will not be produced.
hen charging the battery because they are appropriately sized.
t in the stock battery cables while starting a Pontiac 389 engine.
currents. Do you think I was measuring the voltage on the accessory jack when starting my ELECTRIC car?
We are discussing IC engines with a starter, not your imaginary toy that has no starter. Stop being a Sloman!
The loss of some voltage while charging is cheaper than using bussbars t o reduce the losses to a lower level.
1AWG Welding cable, in spite of being warmed that heavier cables would bur n up the starter. Typical starting currents were 90A, but I have seen 400A on high compression engines when they were hot.uld see that their are I/R losses between the Alternator and the battery. T he wire between the two isn't that heavy. Just heavy enough to carry the ra ted output of the alternator. Add the voltage drop across the Fusible Link, and you can lose several tenths of a volt. A fuse can't operate near its current rating without a drop to generate the required heat to fuse the cir cuit.
some tenths of a volt on cables. That's not VOLTS.
How would you know? it was part of the wiring harness, not a separate wi re. I have personally seen several volts dropped on Battery cables while tr oubleshooting a starting problem on a car. I measured the negative lead bet ween the battery and the engine block. The Positive was from the battery cl amp, to the solenoid. I also had just under .2 volts across the solenoid's contacts.
s a toy to entertain motorheads. It could be off half a volt, or more. Ju st like the cheap meters for USB testing.
h a good meter. I have a couple of old Flukes that are still very accurate .
hey are inaccurate? It seems an easy job to make one that is within a few percent so until I see some anomalous readings I'm not going to assume what I saw was garbage.
asy' to make an accurate meter, it is easier to make crap. Open that meter and you'll find a low grade PC board, . Most likely it will have an open fr ame trim pot. If it is a good meter, why does it only show to a tenth of a volt? A 2.5 digit meter? I have a cheap AC line voltage monitor. It reads a lmost 10 volts high, compared to any of my DMMs, including the Fluke 8050 a nd other lab grade models. That is an eight percent error. It was only one volt off, the first day. The next day it was showing over 130VAC. I've done work as an industrial electrician, at transmitter sites and other mission critical sites as the Engineer on site, so don't try to BS me.
robes on. It's hard to check the voltage with both meters at the same time . The reason I bought the accessory socket meter is because it's hard to c heck the voltage with a regular meter at all.
So, you can't afford a cigarette lighter plug and two banana plugs?
well to any of the several other meters I have. I also found an accessory socket meter I bought months ago but never took out of the package. It ha s a much smaller display though. I have a socket splitter I can use to plu g in both meters at once. lol
Laugh all you want. It's the Slowman part of you that is leaking out. You h ave how many USB meters to test? A sample of one only proves that you are a liar or a moron. Ask Jeff Lieberman about them, and about the cheap DC dig ital panel meters out there.
Doesn't the dashcam work below 13.0 V or why do you want to delay the power to it, until the battery is fully charged ?
Or are you only interested to operate the camera when the motor is running and the car might be potentially moving ?
If the car movement is the thing of interest, why not tap the speedometer ?
That would be the natural solution to measure the current from the generator to battery.
That would be a clean solution, much better than the +/-30 A dashboard current meters seen in older cars, in which high currents were routed via the dashboard.. .
At least a few minutes. If the motor stops running when the car is still moving, it could crash into something before coming to a complete stop, so you really want to record any crashes during that period.
rote:
te:
of filtering in a
ood regulation,
rgo, no need to
perform more poorly. The threshold margin will be reduced making the thre shold set point more critical.
have and found it read 14.7 volts pretty much all the time I can read it. I had previously asked a service tech what time of battery it had and was told it was a standard auto battery, just small, not even a sealed lead aci d battery. Maybe this meter is not very accurate, but 14.7 volts would coo k the battery, no?
ible link to prevent a fire from a short to the frame. No I/R losses, at al l? How accurate was that cheap meter? What was the ambient temperature?
ther than questions. The cheap meter is of unknown accuracy, but unless it is just plain broken, it should be within a tenth of a volt or so, no? Th
p the data on lead acid batteries an any temp you would expect to encounter in the lower 48 states, 14.7 volts will be causing the battery to gas. Do that too long and it causes problems. I have no reason to believe the car has wiring that would cause a volt of drop from routine loads. Even then it's hard to believe this voltage would be seen by the accessory socket and not the battery. More likely the other voltages in the car would be lower than the battery, not higher.
er voltage than a high impedance load connected to the alternator. It is cu rrent flow, not just voltage that generates hydrogen and oxygen in a lead c ell battery.
he battery varies with the state of charge. You can provide a small amount of current to trickle charge a battery and it won't gas. Run too much cur rent into a fully charged lead acid battery and the voltage will rise and a nd gas will be produced. A car will run a higher current into a depleted b attery and the voltage will not be 14.7 and gas will not be produced.
when charging the battery because they are appropriately sized.
ost in the stock battery cables while starting a Pontiac 389 engine.
NG currents. Do you think I was measuring the voltage on the accessory jac k when starting my ELECTRIC car?
at has no starter. Stop being a Sloman!
to reduce the losses to a lower level.
ew 1AWG Welding cable, in spite of being warmed that heavier cables would b urn up the starter. Typical starting currents were 90A, but I have seen 400 A on high compression engines when they were hot.
would see that their are I/R losses between the Alternator and the battery. The wire between the two isn't that heavy. Just heavy enough to carry the rated output of the alternator. Add the voltage drop across the Fusible Lin k, and you can lose several tenths of a volt. A fuse can't operate near it s current rating without a drop to generate the required heat to fuse the c ircuit.
ee some tenths of a volt on cables. That's not VOLTS.
wire. I have personally seen several volts dropped on Battery cables while troubleshooting a starting problem on a car. I measured the negative lead b etween the battery and the engine block. The Positive was from the battery clamp, to the solenoid. I also had just under .2 volts across the solenoid' s contacts.
is a toy to entertain motorheads. It could be off half a volt, or more. Just like the cheap meters for USB testing.
ith a good meter. I have a couple of old Flukes that are still very accura te.
they are inaccurate? It seems an easy job to make one that is within a fe w percent so until I see some anomalous readings I'm not going to assume wh at I saw was garbage.
'easy' to make an accurate meter, it is easier to make crap. Open that mete r and you'll find a low grade PC board, . Most likely it will have an open frame trim pot. If it is a good meter, why does it only show to a tenth of a volt? A 2.5 digit meter? I have a cheap AC line voltage monitor. It reads almost 10 volts high, compared to any of my DMMs, including the Fluke 8050 and other lab grade models. That is an eight percent error. It was only on e volt off, the first day. The next day it was showing over 130VAC. I've do ne work as an industrial electrician, at transmitter sites and other missio n critical sites as the Engineer on site, so don't try to BS me.
probes on. It's hard to check the voltage with both meters at the same ti me. The reason I bought the accessory socket meter is because it's hard to check the voltage with a regular meter at all.
re well to any of the several other meters I have. I also found an accesso ry socket meter I bought months ago but never took out of the package. It has a much smaller display though. I have a socket splitter I can use to p lug in both meters at once. lol
have how many USB meters to test? A sample of one only proves that you are a liar or a moron. Ask Jeff Lieberman about them, and about the cheap DC d igital panel meters out there.
Go back and read the thread. No one was talking about voltages during star ting. I was specifically talking about the voltages I measured on my car.
Your poorly remembered cars of the 70s with bad connector problems could sh ow any sort of voltage drop you can imagine. The conversation was about ch arging batteries, not trouble shooting bad wiring and connections.
This is a recurring theme for you. You jump into a conversation with your own experiences which are typically not relevant.
Thanks for your comments anyway. Here's your award for participating.
-- Rick C. +-++ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging +-++ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
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