Connector Question

solid wire? I don't like tripe connectors. ;)

Stranded. ...Jim Thompson

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Those are hoojangers, sometimes called doohickeys.

They're in the hell box. ;-)

Lord Valve Jiveass

:-D

What I'm trying to do is cut lamps lose from the remote, so that the lamps turn on and off via a wall switch.

Poking around in the guts I find a "DawnSun Power Limiter", which might seem to be a dimmer (*). Anyone know about such things?

(*) Which seems sort of dumb... lamp is Halogen, and my understanding is Halogen's when dimmed, suffer lifetime ?? ...Jim Thompson

...

You know - after taking another look, those sure do remind me of one-pin Molex connectors. You don't see 'em on modern stuff, but old SS guitar amps are full of the damn things, especially Peaveys.

Ya think?

LV

They twist lock, but I don't need to find them anymore, I found this...

The government sticks it nose up my ass... again :-(

I'll just cut it out, up-top, and add a separate feed wire from the ceiling.

Problem solved. ...Jim Thompson

Those are the connectors usually used to power the light bulb at the center of the ceiling fan. There's a lousy photo of the connectors at: (top photo) The idea is to prevent you from doing a creative wiring job and installing something like a wall outlet, oversized light fixture, heater, or whatever else you're planning to hang from the fan.

I just happen to have a ceiling fan in a box handy. These are the mating connectors:

No clue who made the connectors or where to buy them. You can probably obtain the matching light figure, with connectors, from the unspecified fan manufacturer for an outrageous price. You can also cut off the connectors and use a crimp splice or insulated blade connectors.

Looks like a high temp rated piece of junk. The DawnSun limiter gizmo might be one of the light harvesting schemes where they sense ambient room light , such as natural light supplied through windows, and dim the output to mai ntain a certain ambient light level.

Hire an electrician. Anything much past 3.3 volts, you're a danger to the public and yourself.

Nice find. I just compared the dimensions in the drawing with the lamp base in my photo and found the mating parts to be identical. The lengths are a little different, which doesn't really matter:

Not to mention they would require a $400 crimp tool...not worth it. Go with 1- or 2- position wire-to-wire with barrel crimp that works with cheap tool.

PALwHUB :-(

BTW, My father was an electrician _before_ he got into the Radio & TV, hardware store and apartment houses businesses... and I used to function as his assistant on weekends when I was a kid >:-}

Isn't it time you grew up? ...Jim Thompson

Grow up? And spend my declining years at home, fixing broken wine racks and rusty outdoor grilles? No thanks.

You don't pay a lot of attention do you? Perhaps a reading comprehension problem? I'm hardly "declining", I'm now experienced in the use of Cadence Virtuoso Tools.

And the wine rack wasn't broken... I built up one, stained it to match the butler pantry cabinets and installed it.

And the grille, double-dumbass, is stainless.

Isn't it time you grew up? ...Jim Thompson

Those power limiters prevent you from using a higher wattage lamp. I guess they're cheaper than designing an enclosure that won't catch fire. My house came with one and it's pretty accurate about what lamp it will allow.

I recommend the current generation of LED lamps. No flicker, no delay, good color balance, no burnouts from on/off cycles, and they're extremely efficient with dimmers. Since they're so efficient, they don't trip those power limiters either.

(Dimming halogen is harmless. The halogen doesn't work at low temperatures but then the filament isn't evaporating at low temperatures either. What you can't do is alter a halogen bulb's enclosure. The bad part about dimming halogen bulbs is that the efficiency is especially awful.)

We're in a new house... came with those gawd-awful CFL's everywhere.

I'm gradually replacing everything with LED's.

The "broken" wine glass rack O:-) area originally had a CFL that stuck down too far for me to properly place the glass rack, so I found some flat profile LED's that produce twice as many Lumens, and you can't even tell they are there... though they make the glassware just GLOW ;-) ...Jim Thompson

I'm not suggesting using a pneumatic or electric powered crimp tool, normally used for wire rope rigging. Kinda overkill for electrical wiring. You're also off a bit on the price: I have a hydraulic crimp tool similar to this: which I use mostly for 12V battery lugs and large gauge wiring. Incidentally, for coax connectors, yet another pile of crimp tools:

Sorta. I suggest 3M Scotchlok closed end wire splice connectors. There are two in the picture of the ceiling fan base: For these, I use whatever pliers falls out of the tool box first.

Managed to cut out the power limiter, and do all rewiring top-side, so no additional connector needed. Presently 100W Halogen, but a ton of working room... I can probably fit the LED equivalent of light output quite easily. ...Jim Thompson

I was going to say Molex. I see those at the local surplus shop (Excess Solutions). That shop throws nothing away, no matter how weird a connector. Labeling them properly is another story. I'd hate to have them ship something to me. SMA is more like SM-something to them.