shop:
You're talking about what is called "chemical welding" in the industry. Maybe something like this:
shop:
You're talking about what is called "chemical welding" in the industry. Maybe something like this:
shop:
Here's another one:
shop:
This one looks like it handles everything:
What may "work" as suggested seems not to be production friendly.
How about the SECOND time? ;-)
-- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I\'ve got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida
Polyethylene is easy enough with hot melt adhesive. Perhaps there's still some mold release present from manufacturing?
Polyethylene has an affinity for oils and silicone and the low density stuff seems to absorb some.
shop:
Production?
The plastic battery clip is likely a bad choice too then.
shop:
Only cuz ya can't glue to it! Otherwise, they are resistant to alot and tougher than nails. Elsworth is sending us a sample of the 8005 stuff, so we will see what that does. I'll keep everyone posted on if it really works as advertised.
Well, here was the skinny on the 8005.
It bonded to the plastic. However, the epoxy itself is not very strong, the hardened material itslef broke with much less force than I needed for this project. But it left a nice glob on both pieces of plastic, so the point of failure is not the bond, but the hardened material. Too bad it wasn't stonger, it actually sticks.
Did you even bother to look up, and ADHERE to the curing schedule?
I'd bet that if it were properly cured, it would have a much higher shear strength.
>
You can also increase shear strength by adding fiberglass filler fibers to the mix. Quite a bit, actually.
Yes I bothered, don't be so ignorant. It just is not a high strength material. Very air filled, foamy almost. Yes, I even shot a bunch in the trash before using some out of the mix tube, too, to make sure the mix was correct. It just isn't strong enough for my needs. For repair, it would rock, but you can't really save the crap so you waste a whole tube. In other applications needing less strength, it may be fine. I cannot find data on the strength listed in the docs. But it is considerably less than 1600PSI epoxy.
Filler would certainly help. I find silicone rtv the best sticker. Its also many times better to use something flexible that does not crack under load. Plummers Goop may also stick. There are also flexible epoxies.
greg
I have worked with epoxies adhesives and potting compounds for years, asswipe. Vacuum means that the bubbles inside EXPAND, and yes, they WILL get released, you retarded twit. You do it right after the mix, BEFORE application, dumbfuck. YOU are the clueless one.
The 10:1 is achieved by the cylinder size of the dispensing syringes, idiot.
The "do that" "they say" is a hell of a lot less of an amount than your retarded ass dumped, I am sure.
If you think gluing something that already broke due to a mechanical stress involves any brains, you need to wait until your next life, when God might give you an IQ that is above 20.
Did you even read the thread, dumbfuckYanikTard?
Adhesive layer too thick reduces fracture strength, sounds like a poor joint design...especially with the 'blob' description, there is more to it than that.
That is probably true, why I retried it more neatly. I have glued pieces all over my bench. I am still not comfortable with the bond strength on the plastic part with any glue type.
Is the problem that you have that rectilinear battery holder and a curved surface ( a motor was it) that restricts your contact area to a one dimensional line?
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