rm.
d.
t -
Wonderful read for the instrument builder, though out of print and expensive. He (RV Jones) had a great grasp of how to do things mechanically. (as well as lots of other stuff). I love the tale of 'shooting up' glassware, which lead to a suggestion for knocking down a tall brick smoke stack... which failed 'dramatically'.
No sploilers in this post, you'll have to read the book.
George H.
Yeah, MC has a lot better prices on just about everything if you need a bunch and can wait a few days. I really should put some on my next order. I don't like spending my money on work stuff, though. They're too picky with other things. I don't like one-way streets.
I'm quite experienced with the toner-transfer process. Unfortunately after using it routinely with no trouble whatsoever, I tried using it yesterday and it's simply not working at all--the toner simply does not stick.
I'm not sure why--same type of paper, cleaning process, same equipment, etc.
No time to solve the mystery right now, I've got to make a breadboard today and I guess it'll be the old-fashioned way.(*)
(*)(standard, excepting that some of the "traces" are 3x13mm cross- section copper bar!)
-- Cheers, James Arthur
John Larkin expounded in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
...
I have tried superglue to hold deadbug dip packages but it doesn't hold well.
In the deadbug projects I've done to date, after gluing, I try to solder as many pins as possible to the ground plan to hold it firmly in place.
Perhaps a little mechanical help like a dremmel or drill treatment of the copper underneath the part, prior to gluing, may help. I'll have to try that.
Has anyone tried contact cement?
Warren
Speculation, to be sure, but drilling a hole or two and using a dab of hot glue might work nicely, where the package does not get hot enough to melt the glue again. Epoxy otherwise. Then again, soldering pins down is probably the most effective method. Double-stick tape might work perfectly well on that basis, if you start with degreasing the part of the board you are working on.
-- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.
I prefer live bug. I solder as many pins as I can down to the plane, usually no glue, and I don't have to count pins backwards.
John
What backwards? Isn't that the way all us old pharts learned to do it on octal tube sockets?
Jim
Use JB weld epoxy. Only downside is it takes about 8 hours to set.
tm
Well, that is the same direction, but we used to work on tubes from below.
John
Contact cement makes a really evil smell when it burns, and it gets everywhere. (You have to put it on both sides.)
I like Gorilla superglue for that job--you can scrape it off easily but it doesn't come off when you don't want it to. Plus it comes in reasonable-sized bottles.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
-- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 845-480-2058 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net
Well, aren't you working on the dead bugs from "below"?
Or 4 minute "hobby" epoxy - downside is you only have 4 minutes to work with a batch. ;-)
Cheers! Rich
Just get 3M ScotchWeld DP190. It is mil grade, and about a 4 Hr rm temp cure, and you can speed that with heat.
The 4 / 5 minute stuff is a fail before it starts.
Or use "Stycast" that stuff will cure within a half hour and you wont be getting it off easily. It is like the same medium the chips are made from (not really).
Phil Hobbs expounded in news: snipped-for-privacy@electrooptical.net:
..
I haven't seen that up here in Canukland, but I'll look for it. Or I can just mail order it of course.
Customs declaration: "Gorilla superglue: for Amateur Radio use".
Warren
I'm adverse to dead bug designs since the day I stepped on a 20-pin DIP, pins up, barefoot.
I've also learned to *not* catch soldering irons mid-air after I knock them off the bench.
John
On a sunny day (Thu, 21 Jul 2011 11:14:32 -0700) it happened John Larkin wrote in :
Now that is funny :-). I have had similar experiences.
-- In your case, that would be closer to your throat.
Can't remember the last time I used a DIP. It's gotta be close to 15 years.
I mentioned that here a while back. Some thought it unnatural to impossible to resist. It only makes sense to me. Working around dangerous tools tends to force one think before acting. ...or at least the default action is one of self preservation. Screw the tool.
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