Alternator problem

Send your $200 to me and I'll send you some magic pixie dust to spread over your current alternator.

Otherwise GET THE HELL OUT OF THIS GROUP and let us get on with some real problems, troll.

Jim

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Hmm. And even at this point you do not consider that something else is abnormal? And still refuse to design an alternative regulator?

Jeez, who peed in your Wheaties?

Also, too, don't top post.

--
Rich Webb     Norfolk, VA

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Yes, it is possible. But upsizing the alternator seems to be the easiest solution.

Yes, i would, to my own car. But "customer and boss" does not allow any alternation to the car.

EM_test_LD_200_datasheet.pdf

And:

"Below the battery": Drain should _only_ be the field current... measure it already! ...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson, CTO                            |    mens     |
| Analog Innovations, Inc.                         |     et      |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems  |    manus    |
| Phoenix, Arizona  85048    Skype: Contacts Only  |             |
| Voice:(480)460-2350  Fax: Available upon request |  Brass Rat  |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com |    1962     |
             
I love to cook with wine.     Sometimes I even put it in the food.

EM_test_LD_200_datasheet.pdf

And:

Then you be screwed ;-) And, to boot, the "boss" thinks you don't know what you are doing. I think he's right. You're utterly clueless about automotive charging systems. ...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson, CTO                            |    mens     |
| Analog Innovations, Inc.                         |     et      |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems  |    manus    |
| Phoenix, Arizona  85048    Skype: Contacts Only  |             |
| Voice:(480)460-2350  Fax: Available upon request |  Brass Rat  |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com |    1962     |
             
I love to cook with wine.     Sometimes I even put it in the food.

Bwa-ha-ha-ha... You want to modify the crap out of it, and have said so repeatedly. Troll...

--
I'm never going to grow up.

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Not so easy, since it was not built in the 60s. According to the drawings, they have one lead tied to the alternator output and one to the internal regulator. I would have to hack some wires inside the alternator while she is not here. Anyway, the shop said the alternator is OK and i think it's OK.

She wouldn't let you touch her car either.

I guess i would have to take up your challenge to hack it secretly.

According to the spec, the output is around 25A (too small) at engine

700RPM. Field current is 0.1A. I would have to rewire the stator or boost the voltage to drive it higher.

=A0 =A0 ...Jim Thompson

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EM_test_LD_200_datasheet.pdf

And:

Yep. Unless the diodes are blown the only current _draw_ will be the field.

...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson, CTO                            |    mens     |
| Analog Innovations, Inc.                         |     et      |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems  |    manus    |
| Phoenix, Arizona  85048    Skype: Contacts Only  |             |
| Voice:(480)460-2350  Fax: Available upon request |  Brass Rat  |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com |    1962     |
             
I love to cook with wine.     Sometimes I even put it in the food.

I was called to a company that made 'dandy rollers', to troubleshoot the wiring in a forklift after the usual service guy gave up. They are used to print packaging for a lot of products. They are heavy steel rollers that are etched with the patterns, then triple plated.

One of the workers raved about my ability to fix anything and fast, so the owner called me because he didn't know of anyone who could get there that afternoon. he knew that they were out of business until they could move the rollers between the different steps. The maintenance man swore that the alternator tested good at a local NAPA store, but the diodes were all shorted. 15 minutes later it was running, with a rebuilt alternator and the owner was trying to get me to take over the maintenance department, but I didn't want to work around dozens of huge electroplating tanks. He took me to the other end of the complex to show me his hobby. He collected train cars, and had a fully restored 'President's car' that he showed me. Later that evening my friend stopped by and said that he wouldn't let any of the employees near that car, and he'd been asked to try to convince me to take the job.

You need to learn logical troubleshooting and pull your head out of your ass. Proper troubleshooting will find the problem, but with the battery disconnected you are feeding a very dirty power source to the onboard electronics. It didn't matter back in the '60s, but you could easily do a $1,000 worth of damage to that car.

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It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

A cheap ammeter between the alternator and the electrical system would let him see what it's doing. If it is a one wire alternator and it isn't putting out current, it's defective.

--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

What year? here is a zipped service manual for the 1997 model, the alternator is on page 50. There is a 100 Amp fusible link between the alternator and the rest of the wiring.

--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

one of the most often overlooked things you may want to check is the batter y terminal connectors. the "strap" type connectors tend to take a set and i ncrease resistance to current flow over time. resistance is futile on a 14V dc system. look for corrosion inside the cables. the alternator to battery cable is usually equipped with a "fusible link"(often a calibrated short le ngth of reduced sized wire in series with the alternator cable). Fusible li nks fail completely in a spectacular fashion. more often the connecting poi nts corrode. next up is failing grounds. note the negative battery lead is directly conn ected to the engine block. a key word for a good ground is "clean" another is "bright metal". takes a lot of voltage to push current thru dirt and pai nt. dirt and paint are bad words when discussing grounds. and you only have 14 volts to play with.

13.8 - 14.2Vdc are the voltage targets i look for on automotive electrical power supplies. below that the battery is flowing current into the electric al system. less than that at idle speed means the alternator has low output for some reason. loose belts, loose or high resistance connections, failed diodes failed voltage regulator, failed wiring, the list is long.

spectacular fashion. more often the connecting points corrode.

interesting artical here..

I'll add some comments here..

First off, how did he determine it was 8 volts at the low end? Being connected to the battery while measuring isn't going to show you this unless the battery is actually discharged down to that level? So this leads to believe that already the test is flawed because the last thing you want to do is disconnect the battery while it's running!

Looking at the post it is assumed that a new alternator has been install with the equal results?

There has been cases where a burnt out GEN indicator lamp will actually cause the alternator to charge low because the regualator depends on the equalizing load between the two for proper regulation..

If a connections is suspect then do the usual checks and clean ups.. Next, you using a volt meter while car is running, test between points not ground. For example the ground lug on the alternator to the (-) of the bat post to see if there is much of a pentential, if so, then there is obviously a grounding issue, the same with the (+) output to the bat (+), this would also leed to a weak connection there too!

Jamie

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I think you need to take your car to a shop that specializes in electrical repair.

Some of the things you are doing are causing more damage.

Andy