Which glue, available at any hardware store, for the screen of a mobile phone?

I have bought many things from ebay. One time I did not get what I bought from a China company. Ebay refunded my money which was around $

10.00

Most of the items are as expected. Just do not buy any simiconductors from China. Many of them do not work as they should. Would not surprise me if the SD and other memory devices from China are the same way.

I know how they do it, but it really gets me that I can buy an item from China for under $ 2 and it ships here. The same thing will cost that much to ship to the next town not counting on what the item cost.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery
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Hi The Real Bev,

Nothing you say about Ebay is unreasonable, where I simply reiterate: o The SUBJECT & BODY of the OP explicitly asked about the local hw stores o If the only way an argument can be made is via an "Ebay Auction"... o Then, while it may work, it's not even close to what was asked.

That's why it's kind of funny how dead wrong _everything_ Snit said.

It's like asking: Q: Where can I buy shrimp locally? And they answer: A: Move to Louisiana.

Sure. It's "an" answer; but it isn't a "useful" answer.

In the case of Snit, he just *made it up* (again) that I accuse _anyone_ else of being Snit, since I have _never_ done so, so Fox's Mercantile (who _admitted_ being Snit long ago) is just trying to get out of it.

He _knows_ he admitted he was Snit, and he knows I've _never_ accused anyone else of being Snit but him (since he admitted it himself); so that's why he stumbles along, where you'll notice he ends with a childish ad hominem attack (and more accusations of trolling, which is kind of funny for Snit (aka Fox's Mercantile).

What's funny is I don't even _need_ his ad hominem attacks: o All I need to do is point out exactly what the say - which is what I do.

He proves himself, the simple fact (as in this very thread): o All Snit (Fox's Mercantile) _can_ do, is write off-topic worthless drivel

Yup. I have some a friend gave me from Alibaba orders where he ordered a ton of them. They were highly unreliable in my Samsung Galaxy S3. I gave up on them, even though they were huge in capacity.

I don't know this for a fact, but it _could_ be that they were rejects.

Yup. I don't disagree.

Each batch could be different where it could be rejects, or stolen, or, maybe, if we're lucky, it could just be over production of a batch or a mistake on quantities ordered, etc.

The problem is that on Ebay, at least with most (if not all) the links that were shown, there was no way to tell what you actually get.

Since it takes about a month to ship, you might not even get anything, or, if you do, you get the wrong thing, or, if you get the right thing, it's a reject for some reason or other ... or maybe ... it's pristine.

But it's _still_ not local, which was the question at hand here.

This is a good point that, at a local store, you pay top dollar for what can be sold at the dollar store for a dollar (e.g., Bic Pens as just one example).

Maybe they are rejects; but maybe not. Maybe they're falsely branded; but maybe not.

I know I no longer buy pencils or erasers at the Dollar Store, for example, because they always suck - but the Bic Pens and high lighters and the nail polish I use to mark stuff, and the whiteout I use to mark stuff, seems to work just fine.

You only risk a buck - and - you can trade them in for a credit if you don't like them (which is one reason I almost always buy locally).

I've had a few things I wish I bought more of, like the fantastic $13 five-gallon jerry jugs for gasoline from Costco. I only bought a half dozen but I wish I had bought more (I stock gasoline since I live in the mountains). They are the BEST gasoline cans sold in California, bar none, and that's saying something because the Blitz and other gas cans I have from Lowes and Home Depot and Ace all suck like you can't believe.

Back on topic, the arts and crafts store didn't have the kind of glue I needed when I went there today, but I'll try another one soon.

What I need, seems to be what Jeff spec'd out, which is: o Ultra thin double-sided tape, or o High solvent temporary sticky glue.

Reply to
arlen holder

You're as predictable as the ducks in a shooting gallery. And every bit as funny as a monkey chained to an organ grinder.

No amount of your repeated bloviating is going to make me snit.

And since you seem to have forgotten, you also accused Peter Wieck of being snit as well.

But that's ok, we're used to you being wrong.

--
"I am a river to my people." 
Jeff-1.0 
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Reply to
Fox's Mercantile

Crap. The phablet was from an Alibaba Express seller, not ebay. Ebay's record is now PRISTINE!

A while back the State of California in its infinite wisdom decreed that gas cans shall be made in such a way as to benefit the environment while enraging the users. That may have been removing the little vent on the opposite side from the spout or something completely different. There are do-it-yourself or buy-it-yourself solutions to the problem. Years ago, and our steel jerry cans might have been made by actual Jerries.

--
Cheers, Bev 
          Horn broken.  Watch for finger.
Reply to
The Real Bev

It is not so much the vent, but the newer self closing spouts. I do not live in California,but guess the whole country is suffering. I have spilled more gas out of a 2 gallon 'safe' spout trying to fill a weed eater and chain saw than I ever have out of the older vented cans I have.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

This is off topic to the original question, but with all the snow today, I ended up teaching the grandkids how to throw snowballs and to make little snowmen (since the snow doesn't last more than a few hours out here).

On those California gas cans...

I spent a lot of time on the phone with the CARB folks over the years o I wrote it up on alt.home.repair at the time in its gory detail o From memory, they only allowed 6 "brands" in California at the time o Each had to certify losses of almost zero ounces after six months storage (I don't remember the specific amount, nor the exact temperature and pressure conditions, so take that as a general summary).

I believe that the comment by Ralph Mowery is apropos that the EPA "may" have followed suit in the intervening years since CARB promulgated those standards.

My remarks to CARB were, at the time, the "irony" that they spec'd that the gas _stay inside_ the can ... but not that it could reasonably come _out_.

Literally, there is no spec for the ease of gas coming out. o Where all our complaints are generally about getting the gas out.

As I recall, there were 3 standards that greatly affected the handyman:

  1. There is no longer a vent (which, IMHO, isn't really the problem here)
  2. There must be child proof caps (which, most of us know how to defeat)
  3. The gas must stay inside (they measure loss by weight over time) Actually #1 is simply a component of #3 I think, but #1 is noticeable.

What I do is very simple.

Since I live in the mountains, and since I'm long retired, as is my wife, I gas up with 70 gallons or so at Costco once every few weeks.

Then I put the cans along a wall that is about 10 feet high (give or take), where they stay until we drive a car up to that wall, and siphon the gas out.

I keep three 10 foot long 1/2 inch OD vinyl hoses (Ace is better than either Lowes or Home Depot for _clear_ vinyl hose, which yellows over time), so that I can put 15 gallons in any one tank during any one setting.

You can get away with almost half of that 10 feet but why bother, since the longer the hose, the more time you have, where 10 feet is just about perfect.

I have a pipe that I sometimes use to keep the bottom of the hose in the bottom corner, and a wooden wedge that tilts the cans up a bit at the front, but that's just finesse.

In addition, I have a modified funnel, with more of that hose taped to the bottom, so that it's easy to get the last few drops out of the gas cans (where again, the Blitz cans suck compared to the Costco cans).

Notice that the spout is just a bung cap, where it serves no purpose other than to cap the can. Hence the best caps are the STRONGEST ones, which tend to be the type that have the spout that stores inside the can.

The "shiny" plastic caps suck, compared to the dull plastic ones (I'd have to check the brand to be sure which brand it is), where it's flimsy by way of comparison.

What I really need, I haven't looked for, is a simple "bung" cap for _all_ my gas cans, since it's kind of a pain that the inside storage caps "drip" a bit since I fill the cans to the utmost.

Funnily enough, California recently enacted a law (a year or two ago?) that you can no longer fill cans larger than 6 gallons, but other than that, you can put as many cans in your car, legally, as you can fit (as long as you don't exceed FEDERAL (DOT) laws which are 600 POUNDS (not gallons, but pounds) of "hazardous material" when transporting it).

NOTE: Last I checked, NY was one state which limited gasoline to 25 gallons, which I haven't checked since because I'm in California.

For storage at home, the Fire Marshal doesn't care how many jerry jugs you have as long as they're in approved containers, and as long as they aren't stored next to the propane tanks (which, themselves, have to be a certain distance, I think 10 feet but maybe 15 or 20?) from flammable material.

OSHA doesn't play a role, but they told me exactly how to build a safe container which has a pan to catch spillage and vents to allow venting and it's covered otherwise, to prevent exposure to the elements.

The EPA plays a role only when the containers get to a certain size, I think it was 49 gallons (but I'd have to check), where then you need to deal with capturing venting during filling, where you can buy at McMasters for a few hundred bucks a gas dispensing setup for 50-gallon enamel inside steel drums for storage.

The problem with the 50-gallon drums (which are slightly less for the reasons stated above, I was told), is that it's really hard to get a DELIVERY here in California of fewer than about 300 gallons.

There was one more spec, as I recall, which kicks in at 300 gallons when stored at a residence, but I forget what it was (EPA maybe?).

Years ago I wrote all this up when I first set up my fuel attainment, storage, and delivery system - which has been working beautifully ever since.

In fact, my wife in the past 25 years has _never_ been to a gas station. Her vehicle is always perpetually filled up by me.

Even the neighbors know they can borrow five gallons for their generators any time they want (our power goes out at least monthly, on average) although most have their own generators, as I do, which run on separate

1000 gallon propane tanks.

If you want pictures of anything I've said above, just ask, as my credibility is not like that of the 3 children who frequent this newsgroup who (a) are stupid, and who (b) don't know anything as a result, and (c) who just make everything up, and (d) who always prove to act like children.

You know who you the 3 children are since they chitchat so well together: From: Fox's Mercantile From: John-Del From: " snipped-for-privacy@aol.com" et al.

Reply to
arlen holder

Hi The Real Bev,

One more interesting related detail...

BTW, I was once surprised, many years ago, that you can no longer siphon gas from one vehicle to another (depending on the vehicle, of course), due not necessarily to "anti-siphon" devices, but due to a "ball" that is intended to prevent spillage when the vehicle rolls over.

The ball "acts" as an anti-siphon device though - but I was told when I asked about it on the respective automotive forums, that the main intent of the ball was to prevent rollover leakage.

That may or may not be the case, but the empirical fact is that it's not possible to siphon easily from one vehicle to another for many vehicles (without playing with the fuel injection system anyway).

Reply to
arlen holder

Hi The Real Bev,

Off the cuff, while we're at the detail of gas cans for perpetual home refueling, I found that it's best to fill the trunk with as many cans as can fit, since that prevents them bouncing around on windy mountain roads.

Also, if octane ratings are an issue, most people on these two newsgroups should know the basic math (except the 3 little kids, pfjw, John-Del, & Fox's Mercantile).

Given I buy only at Costco (which is Top Tier with respect to poly ether amines, but I buy it for price and ease of filling since they're almost always empty in San Jose once they expanded their station to a huge size), they only have 87 and 91 AKI (which is the average of the research and motor methods for anti-knock index).

You can just mix proportionate parts of each to get any rating in between that you may care about.

I have vehicles that "require" the higher octane rated fuel but I rarely, if ever, bother to mix the appropriate mix since they have knock sensors on the side of the engine which enable the engine electronics to retard the timing, if I were to need it.

In reality, I've studied it for my particular vehicle (a bimmer) which pretty much, the way I drive anyway, doesn't _need_ the higher octane rated fuel, which, as you may know, isn't "better" (it's just different).

A ton of morons out there think a higher octane rating means it's more flammable (how many times have you heard about "high octane fuel" fires, where only a moron thinks they burn any better or worse than lower-octane rated fuel fires, within the settings of the typical automotive fuel.

Heck, kerosene has a higher octane rating than does automotive gasoline, which is lost on those morons who think "hi-test" gives them "better performance" (if their engine is working correctly and if it's spec'd for the "regular"), where the octane rating is simply an average computed by making a comparison to a mixture of heptane & what people refer to as "iso-octane" but it's really 2,2,4-tri-methyl pentane.

All this you probably know, but I only state it because in my household, there are vehicles spec'd for different octane ratings, where, if I cared to mix the fuel, I could, but I don't bother for reasons that I know when a vehicle will ping (e.g., high load, high heat, malfunctioning EGR, etc.) and where it won't ping - and even if it "tried", the timing would be momentarily retarded (which has a momentary negative effect, to be sure, on performance but it won't "hurt" the engine).

In short, you can go to Costco, fill up as many cans as you can fit in your trunk, and put them high alongside the driveway (or on the roof of the vehicle under a towel) and fuel up at your own convenience.

In general, it takes four minutes and change for every five gallons.

Again, if you want photos of anything I've stated, let me know, as my credibility is stellar on facts, since I only speak facts as any reasonably intelligent adult would.

Note that any response from the 3 children will _always_ be that of a child. o " snipped-for-privacy@aol.com" o Fox's Mercantile o John-Del

Reply to
arlen holder

This would have been useful maybe 10 years ago when our 1970 Dodge truck ran out of gas on the freeway. The gas gauge had never worked, so I just kept track of the mileage and filled up when appropriate. Little did I know that somebody had siphoned my tank. Tow home, much diagnosis, and ultimately added some gas to the tank. Feh. Bought a locking cap the next day.

--
Cheers, Bev 
    A spokesperson for 60s band 'the animals' has today made a 
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Reply to
The Real Bev

Hi Jeff,

I forgot to update this "wringability" thread, for which I apologize since I always solve the problem and I always update the thread so that others may benefit from the tribal knowledge of the solution employed.

As you may recall, this was the starting point on the LG Stylo 3 Plus: where the goal was to enable wringing by finding an ultrathin non-permanent replacement glue/cement that was rubbery and not liquid (as that could easily clog openings) and that was so thin as to allow the "wringability" features of two extremely smooth mutually flat surfaces to enable the glass plates to stick together like gage blocks, due to: a. Air pressure b. Surface tension c. Electron interchange

In this situation, I found this pack of 300 "glue dots" for a few bucks.

They were labeled "ultra thin" at 3/8" diameter (10mm) circles. UPC: 6 34524 04029 9 (GlueDots.com, 888-458-3368)

They come on a strip about an inch apart where they're sticky on both sides of the dot which you place onto the glass protective screen as needed.

They're the consistency of a "flat gel" in that they easily crumple up into goop if you're not careful in your placement technique:

The trick is mostly in the technique of placing the dots which I can barely see with my 80-year-old eyes so I ended up cutting the paper backing so that I could at least tell where the edge of the glue discs was:

Another trick was to _leave_ the paper backing in place until the very end, which I didn't do on the first attempt, but then I did on the second try:

Yet another trick was to flip the glass sandwich plate the other way so that the tape, instead of being face down, was face up, which was the BETTER way to do it (which was only learned by trial & error):

The end result is that the thin glass sandwich has been working great for weeks now, so I must very much THANK YOU for being one of the few people on this group who understood the problem set, and who outlined a simple repair plan that worked beautifully - and - the best part is that there are hundreds of glue dots left to repair OTHER things similarly.

Thanks for your expert help & advice to solve this specific repair problem, which you could do because you actually comprehended the problem set.

Reply to
arlen holder

That reminds me of the old Michael J. Fox and James Woods movie: "The Hard Way" (1991), ha ha.

Reply to
bruce2bowser

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