Which glue, available at any hardware store, for the screen of a mobile phone?

The glass-plastic-sandwich screen cracked on one mobile phone so I removed my screen and put it on the other mobile phone (we both have the same LG Stylo 3 plus).

It keeps falling off as the original sticky glue on the top and bottom edges doesn't have enough remaining.

I do _not_ want to cover the original glass in liquid uv-cured glue, which is what is likely the best from a refractive-index standpoint.

I just want temporary stick glue like that which came with the original glass/plastic sandwich glass.

I went to both Home Depot & Lowes, neither of whom had anything that they thought would work to solve the problem. I even tried Fixodent, which worked perfectly but only for a few days.

What temporary sticky glue would you suggest that I can get at a local hardware store like Ace, Home Depot, Hardware Freight, etc.?

Reply to
arlen holder
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That adhesive was likely developed just for that purpose. If you must know, Contact 3M. There's no company IMO that knows more about adhesives than them.

Other than that, why not just buy a new protective screen? They're like 3 bucks shipped and come with the adhesive already applied.

Reply to
John-Del

Because sci.electronics.repair is all about doing it the hard way.

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Reply to
Fox's Mercantile

Try the process used to seal cracks in automotive windshields: I have no clue which product is best: etc...

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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Welcome to the sci.electronics.repair.philosophy newsgroup.

If it were easy, it would not be fun or interesting. It would also not require a newsgroup full of "experts" to explain how things should be done. Sometimes, the hard way is the best way while the easy way is an invitation to future problems.

Also, there is no single right answer for fixing anything. There are always two or more ways to do anything. All a right, although some are more right than others.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Hi Jeff,

As you ascertain, the point of the question is to _learn_ about the type of glue that has the following qualities - which can be used elsewhere in sceitneific repair...

  1. It's 'temporary' (but firm enough to stay in place);
  2. It's 'sticky' (more than the Fixodent was, but far less than epoxy is);
  3. It's 'viscous' (it can't _flow_ because it will cover 4 small top ports)
  4. And, it adheres to glass.

Hence, for example, all _permanent_ solutions (e.g., cyanoacrylate) fail. The Fixodent failed only because it wasn't rigid enough (i.e., not sticky).

Note this glue does _not_ need to have anywhere near the refractive index of glass because the LG Stylo 3 Plus has a black 1.2 centimeter frame on both top and bottom.

That means there's plenty of room for a "viscous" sticky temporary glue. The only question,. from a chemistry standpoint, is which glue is that?

NOTE: I saw your other post, where I haven't delved into examining the links yet, where again, matching the refractive index of glass isn't the issue here as it might be with most screen reflector glues.

Reply to
arlen holder

Learning about the type of glue is what this question is mostly about; although the final repair is a secondary goal (as is the ability to repair in the future, using the knowledge learned about the type of glue).

Given that...

There are two issues here, each of which is completely different:

  1. This question is about where to obtain a specific type of "glue"
  2. You seem to have fantastic sources that I am not privy to (yet).

To clarify those two completely disjoint observations...

  1. Why even have a "repair" group, if all you do is "replace"?
  2. You must have far better sources than Amazon given the price you quoted.

For the types of glue, I'll defer a response until I can go through Jeff's purposefully helpful response in detail (with respect to chemistry).

The _best_ I can find on Amazon, sorted by lowest price, is:

The cheapest, is more than twice what you quoted, although I'm sure, in bulk, we can find cheaper (but I only need one, or maybe two, for now).

I simply ask where & how you found the protectors for 3 bucks shipped?

Reply to
arlen holder

You have a 12 mm wide area to adhere the spread sticky stuff on, so have you tried using double-sided sticky tape?

I'm suggesting the thin, transparent types that look like sellotape, not the thicker foam tapes. These tapes come in 6mm and 12mm widths and can be peeled off, though with some difficulty if you use the stronger bonding types.

FWIW I use the latter to attach Mylar seals over the aileron gaps on gliders. One strip of 15mm wide tape on the wing in front of the hinge will keep the Mylar firmly attached for several years if its rolled down well and its leading edge has a strip of gap tape over it to keep dust and moisture from penetrating under the mylar, yet isn't too difficult to get off and replace when it starts to loose its grip.

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Reply to
Martin Gregorie

The This-to-That website might be of help:

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Reply to
Bennett Price

Hi Martin,

You are correct that there is _plenty_ of room at the top and bottom. Also, the tape can be opaque for all we care on those two ends.

The main problem is that the glass has to be held so tightly that _just_ being stuck at the top and bottom 1.2 centimeters holds the rest of the glass plate to the clear area of the phone glass screen (which is 12-1/2 centimeters long & 7.2 centimeters wide).

The original sticky glue (surprisingly) held the _entire_ plate to the surface of the glass even though the glue was _only_ at the top and bottom.

To first answer your question - I have not yet tried sticky tape.

I have _not_ tried stick-sided tape, for the following 3 reasons: o I don't have any super thin stuff (I have the thick spongy white wall-mount 3M stuff only) o I don't know if we can buy it in super duper thin strips (maybe) o But even then, the _top_ 1.2 centimeters has "holes" in the middle.

The holes aren't that big of a deal (tape can be sliced easily). It's the "thin" tape that we'd have to see if it exists.

Does it? Let me search...

Hey.... guess what! o *"Super thin" double-sided sticky tape does exist!*

Now to find it in the box stores...

Thanks for that idea, as I didn't know that "super thin" stuff existed.

It's just not easy to find by normal searches, where, for example, Amazon can find it but not under "thin", but under "super" or "ultra" (mostly having to do with "strength"). o

As an example, a search for "ultra thin double sided tape" gets almost exclusively hits that are NOT ultra thin double sided tape!

I _like_ the idea of the "ultra-thin double-sided" tape, which, I admit, until you mentioned it, and until I found that it exists, I would _not_ have thought of that idea.

But it might work - as long as it's super ultra thin, I think. (Plus, as with all adhesives, it will inevitably serve _other_ uses later.)

Reply to
arlen holder

I'm having a really difficult time visualizing what this sandwich looks like and what you're trying to stick together.

When gluing something by the edges, across two parallel surfaces, the key problem is to not let the glue get between the glass plates by capillary action. Therefore, any kind of low viscosity glue, such as a cyanoacrylate, is going to cause a problem. What you want is something that sticks to the edges of the plates, and doesn't run. My best guess(tm) would be clear RTV bathroom caulk. You can smear it on the edge of the glass sandwich and still take it apart later with a knife. There are many formulations. What you want is probably the type that doesn't run and just sits on the surface forming a blob. An easy test would be to smear some on a vertical surface and see if it runs. I suspect the adhesive type might be too low a viscosity.

You might also try hot melt glue along the edge. So there's no mistake, you're gluing the edges of the plastic, glass, whatever sandwich, much like the original. If you are trying to glue the parallel surfaces, that's a different story.

I think you mean 1.2mm, not cm.

I have no idea.

The other posting is on using a windshield repair kit, which uses cyanoacrylate adhesive. I wrote that when I thought you had a cracked glass smartphone display.

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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

This doesn't meet ANY of your criteria, but it worked for me. There's clear vinyl sheet that adheres quite well to screens. It's not glue. You can't get it at the hardware store, but fabric stores do exist. It's not cheaper than buying a new screen protector because it comes in 24" or 36" widths. I guess it does meet one of your criteria, doing it the hard way.

Reply to
Mike

Hi Jeff,

Thank you for understanding that the purpose of this thread is to learn how the glue works, where to get it, how to apply it, etc., and not just how to replace anything that is broken using a credit card as the only tool.

Since I know you to be purposefully helpful, here, as a courtesy to you, is a picture of the exact situation of the glue itself:

Thanks to your questions, I looked _closer_ at the glue situation, where it seems I was wrong about the perimeter: A. The glue appears to be like that on "sticky tape" where B. The glue _is_ around the entire perimeter (which I didn't realize) C. The glue varies from about 1mm to about 1.2 centimeters wide

Here is a measurement of the roughly ~1.2 cm bottom glue width:

Here is a measurement of the roughly ~0.9cm top-glue width:

Here is a measurement of the long-side ~1mm glue width:

Here is a measurement of the bottom-edge 1.2cm glue width:

Notice: A. The glue itself is like the sticky glue found on typical tape B. There is zero glue in the center "active" area of the screen C. But most certainly, there is 1mm of glue on the long perimeter

The situation on the plate itself is:

  1. The phone at right was dropped such that the plate cracked.
  2. I removed that badly cracked plate easily, as 1 piece (to swap)
  3. That fact pretty much proves the plate is a "plastic sandwich"

The situation I have now, is that:

  1. I easily swapped the broken plate from the right to left phone.
  2. It's working just fine on the left phone (no air bubbles for example).
  3. It's actually _surprising_ given there is zero center-area glue

I repeat that it's actually shocking, to me, how _well_ this plate works given that only on the perimeter has _any_ glue!

And yet, there are no bubbles.

Here's where the problem arose when we swapped plates:

  1. The plate in the center was removed easily from the left phone
  2. But we dropped it on the floor when moving to the right phone
  3. In subsequent cleanup, we destroyed the "stickiness" of the glue

So all we need to do, really, is _exactly_ replace the missing glue. o This question is where do we get that specific glue locally?

BTW, I think the only thing we need to do is keep it from moving.

Look at this picture which shows there is a _lip_ along the perimeter:

Maybe that's why it works so well? o All you really need to do is keep the plate next to the facescreen.

I've seen the videos that use a "liquid" glue which is _not_ used here. This is a static sticky goopy glue (sort of what's on the back of tape).

If we could figure out what glue they use to put on the back of typical tape (like Scotch tape), that would likely be the only glue we need.

Exactly. What's worse is a low-viscosity glue can easily cover the top ports!

Yup. Exactly like the "stuff" that's on the back of "Scotch tape". Whatever _that_ glue is, is, I think, what was originally there.

I think we have a confusion in terms.

There are "two" sandwiches:

  1. The actual plate _is_ a sandwich of glass-plastic-glass o I know this because, even shattered, it stays firmly together.

  1. Then there is the sandwich we're trying to create o That's the original glass, plus glue on top, and then the plate.

Note that the glue was _never_ (likely) a "liquid". o The glue is a "sticky stuff" (like that on Scotch tape) on the edges o Specifically, the active area of the screen has _zero_ glue. o And, the entire perimeter of the phone has a tiny "lip"

So, Jeff, two things I noticed only after you asked me to look (Given that the plate works surprisingly well with temporary glue.)

  1. There _is_ glue on the entire perimeter (Where I had thought it was only on the top & bottom.)

  1. There is a lip all around the edge of the phone (Whch I hadn't noticed until I looked to see why it stays in place.)

There is a lip on the phone, which I never noticed until just now. o That lip, I think, keeps the plate from sliding side to side.

All I need to do is "tack" the plate onto the glass screen. o The original glue "tacked" the plate at the top & bottom

Like you, Jeff, while I'm humble as are you, I also rarely make mistakes in material fact, just like you rarely do.

In this case, I made an omission in material fact though, in that I hadn't _looked_ closely at the entire perimeter until your query prompted me to look closer at the situation.

Since my credibility is not only stellar, I want to keep it stellar, I doublechecked my estimates on the width where, with a rule, they came to roughly 1.2cm and 0.9 cm upon closer inspection at the bottom and top respectively, and, unbeknownst to me until you prompted me to look, there's also about 1mm along the long sides (that I was previously unaware of).

Like you, Jeff, I'm a rare breed who has stunningly stellar credibility. o And, like you, Jeff, I enjoy learning from others (and on my own).

I _think_, upon closer inspection, it's likely the _same_ (or similar) stuff that is on the typical sticky-tape we use every day (e.g., Scotch tape).

The question becomes: o Where does one get the sticky glue that is on typical tape?

Thanks, Jeff, You've always been purposefully helpful - and informative.

Like you, I try to always provide well-cited facts and new ideas.

In this case, I don't think a "liquid" glue is the right prescription. THe "fixodent" would have been perfect - had it been a bit more rigid.

The _perfect_ glue, it seems, would be whatever "sticky stuff" they put on typical tapes such as duct tape.

Reply to
arlen holder

Thanks. Now I understand. The suggestions of using double sided tape is closest to the solution. Usually, there's a die cut pre-form in the shape of the bezel on the phone supplied with the replacement touch screen. It's basically double sided tape cut to the exact shape needed to attach the digitizer. As mentioned, the backing tape is quite thin. I couldn't find one for your LG phone.

So, that leaves the question of what manner of glue was used on the die cut pre-form. My original guess was some manner of rubber cement. The problem is that there are a fairly large number of different types of rubber cement, ranging from very permanent contact cement, to the thin temporary rubber cement sold in art supply stores for photo and picture mounts. Kinda like the weird glue used on Post-It notes.

I have some of the die cut pre-forms for an Apple 3G which I can use to analyze the glue. However, I don't want to, don't have the time, and would rather be doing something more interesting. Sorry.

Meanwhile, see if the glues are acceptable: Tape: More: It looks to be about 75% solvent, which I think is about right for a low viscosity glue.

Again, think heavily diluted rubber cement and die cut pre-forms.

That's because the various layers of the sandwich are VERY flat and are held together by surface tension from water vapor in the boundary area. It's something like what holds gauge blocks together, except those usually have a layer of oil in addition to water vapor.

Yep. The glass and plastic are not sufficiently elastic and will therefore not stretch sufficiently to create bubbles.

Cleaning off the old glue, and replacing it with new glue will probably be beyond our capabilities. You can try using a rubber squeegee to apply a thin layer, but I suspect you'll need some kind of fixture to get any manner of consistency. It's also not worth the effort as a new screen will do the job for less money and effort. Try some solvent (not sure what type) on the existing mess and see if the stickiness returns.

When the carrier solvent evaporates, what's left is your sticky goopy glue.

It's called a PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) and is probably an acrylic (or acrylate):

"Scotch Transparent Tape" Rubber shortages during the war prompted 3M to switch to synthetic acrylate adhesives. Although not as strong, acrylate adhesives retained their clarity and actually aged better than rubber-based adhesives, which turned yellow and brittle over time. Later, acrylate adhesives would be mated with an acetate backing to create "invisible"

on with pencil, pen, or marker.

Basically, it's acrylic plastic dissolved in some type of solvent.

Ok, if there is glue all over the screen, then it has to be very thin, not very sticky, achromatic (so the colors don't change), and very very very clear. That's not something you'll find at the local hardware store.

I don't think the layers of the sandwich will slide over each other, but they curl or slip from uneven temperatures.

First, you have to identify it. I usually start with a patent search. Look for "pressure sensitive adhesive tape LCD".

This one looks interesting: ...examples of which include known or usual pressure-sensitive adhesives such as acrylic pressure-sensitive adhesives, silicone based pressure-sensitive adhesives, polyester based pressure-sensitive adhesives, rubber based pressure-sensitive adhesives, and polyurethane based pressure-sensitive adhesives. The pressure-sensitive adhesive can be used singly or in admixture of two or more thereof. So, it can be acrylic, silicone, rubber, polyurethane, or a mixture of the aforementioned. Not very helpful, but at least it's a start.

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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

The die cut pre-forms for the iPhone 3G turned out to be 3M 300LSE double coated sticky tape. It's designed for attaching digitizers to phones and high strength acrylic glue. LSE means "low surface energy" which is a property of the material the tape is bonding, not the adhesive. 300LSE is the 3M designation for the adhesive, not the tape.

Google finds quite a bit on this tape:

Data (so many too choose from):

You can buy it by the sheet or roll:

There's also quite a bit under 3M acrylic adhesive:

However, there's a problem. I don't know exactly which of the many types of tapes that use 300LSE is best for holding smartphone screens together. Probably the one with the thinnest backing. However, you want a temporary bond, which makes the high strength characteristics a rather bad idea.

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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Hi Jeff, I agree. It's a simple question - but not an easy one to answer.

I thank you for asking clarifying questions, as you forced me to prove my words, where I realized I hadn't looked at the situation closely enough until I snapped those photos for you.

From the photos, and from your astute queries, I realized:

  1. It likely is a "tape" (and not "just" a glue), and,
  2. It is all around the perimeter (which I hadn't noticed prior).

I agree now that I've looked more closely that it's an ultra thin tape (most likely), and not a glue, per se.

It _does_ seem to be a "rubbery cementy" type gooey stickiness...

Since the goal was to find a local supply of a "typical" glue, I will try a local art-supply store, which should have "removable" gooey rubbery cement

- thanks for that idea!

Nope. Please don't go to that trouble, Jeff.

You've helped more than anyone else on this newsgroup can, simply because you comprehend the problem set and potential solutions better than those Snit-like folks who always prove to know even less than I do.

You're a good detective, Jeff, since you "see" the problems, in problems. (All they saw was a credit-card solution - which was never the question.)

BTW, I had first searched the canonical archives for this question:

I also first searched the Internet - and only after both came up busted, did I ask about the glue chemistry/physics here.

That has an interesting keyword which I was unaware of: "Rhinestone pasting adhesive"

That one is called "Mobile Phone Screen Adhesive", which I wish they had more information in the description about other than it ships from China (it's one reason I've never bought from Ebay in my life).

That one seems almost perfect, in that it's a 2mm, 3mm, or 5mm "Double Sided Adhesive Tape for Mobile Phone Touch Screen Repair 25M"

It takes about a month to arrive from China, but, at _that_ price, the huge presumed risk of Ebay disappears, since $1.60 per roll is not risking much.

Given the dimensions, the 2mm tape can be trimmed to be used on the long sides (~1.4mm), and the 5mm tape + 3mm tape can be used on the top (~0.9cm), with two 5mm tapes on the bottom (~1.2cm).

The beauty, as with all repair solutions, is that the tape will definitely come in handy for _other_ repairs around the home (as long as it stores well).

The first object is a "glue removal liquid" and the second is a "uv glue" which is what would be needed if there were no edges - but this phone has plenty of edges.

The rest appear to be glue removal goops, which is fine but I think simple alcohol and/or acetone should work for removal of the existing goopy stuff.

Hi Jeff, Since you speak logically, it's impossible to disagree with you. o If glue, it needs to be high solvent that evaporates leaving goop o If tape, it needs to be ultra-thin, which is what I think they used

Smooth? Hmmm.... interesting. Very interesting.

Certainly it works. Beautifully.

That it works is very interesting, since it's so simple (glass on glass).

I agree with you Jeff that it works _beautifully_, without having to put any of that uv-cured glue on the actual screen - where it makes sense that there is "something" in the physics/mechanics that makes the plate bond beautifully to the glass.

o What is the property called where two objects stick together because they are both very smooth? "It is called wringability, named after the act of joining ("wringing") two gauge blocks together"

"Wringing requires two smooth, flat surfaces with surface finishes of 1 microinch AA or better. For gage blocks, it becomes difficult to wring surfaces if the flatness starts to exceed 5 microinches. The sources of the forces holding gage blocks together are thought to come from: 1. Air pressure from the surrounding environment as the air is squeezed out when the blocks are slid together. 2. Surface tension from oil that remains on the gage blocks or water vapor from the air acts as a glue to hold them together. 3. When two very flat surfaces are brought into such close contact with each other, this allows an interchange of electrons between the atoms of the separate blocks, which creates an attractive molecular force. (This force will remain even in a vacuum or if no oil or water is present on the blocks.) The last two sources are thought to be the most significant."

The main goal will be achieved if I can find the proper temporary goopy stuff at an art store later today or later this week.

I don't think cleaning will be difficult, simply because it must react to solvents, and even if not, mechanical scraping seems "doable".

While a new screen will work, that was never the question simply because the goal was to understand how it worked and then to figure out a glue that does the job.

I think we've accomplished that goal, which is both a learning and pragmatic experience. I will know more after I visit an art supply store.

In this case, the liquid refractively-matched glues don't apply.

That's an interesting set of finds, which I agree with you on the analysis of. I think the solution is simply to find that acrylic plastic in the arts and crafts stores, which it would seem to exist most since they do more temporary tacking than the box store stuff is designed for (I would think).

Ooops. I meant only on the thin perimeter is there glue. (Long sides is about 1.5mm, top & bottom around 1cm.) The entire "active" portion of the screen is devoid of glue.

The protective glass screen "is" itself a sandwich of at least glass on the outside and plastic on the inside.

That protective screen is then placed on top of the phone glass, and that is the perfect fit.

Thanks Jeff, I think I can take it from here in that you've helped determine o It's almost certainly an ultra-thin tape (originally a die-cut tape) o A pressure-sensitive adhesive would also work o The best source for the tape & adhesive is (apparently) overseas o While a reasonable facsimile can likely be found in local art stores

I'll visit a few art stores today to see if I can find the glue or tape locally (I have never bought from Ebay due to the risk but in this case at the prices you found, the loss risk, even if real, is low).

Reply to
arlen holder

Hi The Real Bev,

We go way back, so you know I don't suffer fools well, which is why I'm only responding to you (and to Jeff) and not to the Snit-like know-nothing trolls who both preceded you and follow (where they _never_ add a single iota of value to _any_ thread).

They prove to be children in _every_ post, where I don't suffer fools well.

Jeff comprehended the question which was originally about 'glue'. o It turns out to most likely be an ultra-thin tape (originally die cut)

Jeff also comprehended the solution, which is either "glue" or "tape" o If glue, it needs to be a high solvent "rubbery" "acrylic" style glue Where the solvent evaporates, leaving the sticky stuff behind.

As Jeff already noted, for both tape & glue, the type appears to be "pressure sensitive", where the "wringability" of glass on glass is what prevents bubbles from forming.

While I _barely_ even use Amazon, I feel Ebay is worlds less "safe" (in so many ways that I won't even enumerate them here).

Suffice to say that most of those Ebay links I looked at that folks posted were from Chinese operations, which means shipping takes something like a month, and where a lot of the product was quoted in foreign currencies I haven't even heard of (sure I can look them up, but the point is that an Ebay link is not all that useful if the best we can find is something halfway around the world quoted in currencies I've never even heard of shipped by a company I can't possibly contact when things go wrong, etc.).

If the Ebay link connected to, say, a company in the USA that has a known presence that can be contacted for customer support, that would be different - but almost all the quoted Ebay links (if not all) were from an unknown entity in China where you can't vouch for what you're going to get like you can with, say, Home Depot or Ace or Lowe's (which, you'll note, is clearly noted as being part of the original question asking for a solution).

In short, Ebay is ridiculous since it's an answer that does even remotely NOT fit the problem set (except to people who didn't understand the problem set in the first place - which is my fault for not making it clear I was seeking a local solution at any local box store).

I don't doubt the veracity of what you're saying, but Ebay from China just doesn't even remotely fit the problem set as stated in the very subject of this post, and as stated in the opening post.

Ebay is fine as a "reference" for the lowest possible price (where, I'll note, even the trolls couldn't back up their claimed prices, even _with_ Ebay links - which shows how much they just make up everything they say, which is why I claim those trolls never add even a single iota of value to _any_ thread).

As I recall, Snit _admitted_ being Fox's Mercantile, for example, but I'd have to dig up that post from long ago, so, rather than bother, I'll just state that _everything_ Fox's Mercantile posts literally _reeks_ of Snit-like posts ... hence I'll just lump them _all_ into the Snit-like category.

You, The Real Bev, on the other hand, as is Jeff, are almost always "purposefully helpful". If you don't have an answer, you don't bother posting, which is commendable.

(The Snit-like posters like Fox's Mercantile, who claim everyone _else_ is a troll, don't even know simple math in that they infest threads where the thread only needs 1 or 2 helpful responses, and yet, their Snit-like posts outnumber the useful responses from 10 to 1 and even, at times, their Snit-like posts outnumber useful posts at 100 to one -- all because they claim _everyone_ else to be a troll simply for asking a valid question of a valid newsgroup).

HINT: Fox's Mercantile _is_ Snit (he admitted it long ago); but even if he now denies what he already admitted, the proof is that Fox's Mercantile always adds _negative_ value to _every_ thread he infests (so Fox's Mercantile is Snit-like even if Fox's Mercantile no longer claims to be Snit himself).

I know of people close to me who _never_ received Ebay shipments, and then, when they _tried_ to resolve the problem, they had to jump through hoops by begging the Ebay Customer Support to prove contact information (which always turned out to be email addresses only) and then they had to work that through the emails, and only after that, through Ebay.

Nonetheless, even if Ebay has the best prices, nobody could even come close to the prices they _claimed_ (at least by percentage, where they were, in general, more than 100% off the mark) for something that is a reliable source found locally or in Amazon.

I'm not complaining, by the way, as I know _you_ to be a respectable poster, as you know me to be also. I'm just asking _them_ where they get their outrageous claims, where one must point out again (and again) o Comprehension of the question is key o Where the question was always about glue and not about glass o Where their condesencing remarks are to be expected from trolls o And yet, they weren't even close (off by more than 100% most of the time) o And yet, they claim I am the troll (when all I did was ask a valid question)

In short, this is how you know me to operate, The Real Bev:

  1. I ask a valid question of a valid newsgroup
  2. I answer all valid responses, adding value in each post (e.g., pictures)
  3. I act on the suggestions that are appropriate (as suggested by Jeff)

In short, this is how the trolls operate, The Real Bev: A. They post unrelated drivel (e.g., Fox's Mercantile who is really Snit) B. They prove to miscomprehend the problem set (as snipped-for-privacy@aol.com did) C. They post completely bogus imaginary prices (as did John-Del) etc.

The facts are pretty simple here: a. I asked a question about the glue in a specific faceplate b. That glue turned out to be an ultra-thin tape c. Where the "local" solution appears to be an arts/crafts store

I'll let you know, perhaps later today, what I find at a local arts-and-crafts store, since I generally close the loop so as to provide an update to the overall tribal knowledge of the newsgroup.

formatting link

BTW: The Real Bev, guess who _created_ that link so that we'd all benefit?

Reply to
arlen holder

Sorry Peter, but I must (being called out by name).

So I'm now faking ebay auctions for your benefit? Even if I did possess th ese hacking skills, why would I waste them on a troll?

Well, here's another I whipped up. This "fake" ebay auction has 5 (five) L G Stylo 3 protectors for the low, low price of one dollar and ninety nine cents!!! ($1.99) including shipping. This comes out to 0.40 cents each. Unf ortunately, you don't get a Super Shammy included with this offer:

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For your benefit and shipping expediency, I also based my fake ebay seller in the continental USA (not China), and gave him a feedback total of over 2 million sales! Security over $1.99? Sure! Just complain to paypal and th ey will refund your money so you can spend the two bucks on new condoms.

Reply to
John-Del

And one again, you've added nothing except listening to yourself pontificate.

And accusing me, and others of being snit, well, you've just outed yourself as being just one of 20 or so different names you use to get around getting filtered by everyone else that has grown tired of your long pointless postings smeared across seemingly random news groups.

And as usual, you bitch about eBay, amazon and everyone else, that surprisingly, the rest of us, and millions of others use daily without the slightest bit of problems.

In summary, you sir, are a carbuncle on the ass of humanity.

--
"I am a river to my people." 
Jeff-1.0 
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Reply to
Fox's Mercantile

I don't order anything that costs more money than I'm willing to throw away. The phablet was an exception, and I won't make it again. Prices are frequently given in Canadian dollars as well as US dollars. Some things you just can't find here. Like the tool that removes the stem from strawberries. I'm willing to wait one or two months, I'd been looking in stores for a year.

We've had trouble with high-capacity microSD cards from ebay. They looked absolutely authentic, but allowed only a few GB of storage. Tried on a number of linux and windows machines using several card readers. Same problem with Amazon. Sellers apologized profusely, credited back the payment and didn't demand return, although Amazon wanted a photo of the card.

I believe they were all factory defects of varying quality sold out the back door by the kilo. What I wonder about is why the people who bought them don't all demand a refund -- it's not like it's difficult -- making their sale wasted effort.

A lot of what we have to buy here is cheap junk at inflated prices. Since it's all made in the same place, we might as well buy it at the best price if we're not in a hurry.

I wish I'd bought more of the $1 Belkin shielded USB cables with the little LED lights on the ends.

--
Cheers, Bev 
   "It's important to never be arrogant. Especially if you're one 
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Reply to
The Real Bev

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