Can somebody please help me figure out how to hook up an illuminated pushbutton switch that I bought to my range hood? The switch is Radio Shack part # 275-671:
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Here's a link to the schematic which came in the package with the switch:
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To me, this wiring diagram doesn't make any sense. The best I can figure is that it should look like this instead:
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but something isn't right, I know it.
Can somebody please help me figure out how to hook this thing up so that the light works when I turn on my range hood's fan?
In this diagram the internal indicator light has only one connection (the 'A' terminal is unconnected). There is no closed circuit.
You need to determine what the internal connections are within the switch and work from there. They likely look to be as follows, but you can verify with a multimeter:
: C B : O O : | | : | / | : | / | : +---o' o---+ : | : | : (~) Light : | : | : O : A
In which case the first diagram works as advertised:
As shown in the original diagram. Hook up the feed to A and C, where C is hot (the black wire) and A is neutral (white). Hook up your load (the fan) to A and B. The lamp is probably a small neon glow lamp.
Thanks, but I already tried that method and the light won't come on. Pretty sure it's because the small connector "A" isn't connected to anything.
I don't know why the switch wasn't manufactured with the light correctly connected in parallel internally so that all one would have to do is to connect the switch serially to the fan (load).
I do know that the light is an LED and has a resistor inline to it.
Looks to me like they are giving you two+ options - depending on where "A" connects the light will be on when the switch is closed signifying power to the load, or could be on when the switch is open - making it easy to locate the switch in the dark. Or if the load is a heater, you might wire it across the thermostat and signal when the heater is drawing current, or some other semi-automatic event.
Neon lamps have a resistor in series - 75 - 100K as a rule, they should ionize at ~80 volts, BUT sometimes neons that haven't been used recently don't ionize readily - the thing that may get it going (assuming there is voltage across it) is to shine a bright light at it. (learned that from using neon plasma panels in the 70's).
An LED would require a rectifier and a resistor (or capacitor) to limit voltage. In the case of a resistor, it would be physically large since it has to drop ~110 volts, and at 20 ma that's two+ watts.
If you're trying to ohm it out, remember that a neon lamp is essentially an open circuit to low voltage DC, so there will not appear to be any continuity between terminal A and either B or C.
Bet its an NE-2 with a ~500K current-limiting resistor.
Right. I've got two of these switches, one for the range hood fan and the other for the range hood light. I hooked up one switch for the range hood fan, leaving its "A" terminal unconnected. The switch works fine but its light remains out when the fan is running.
I did run a multimeter across it yesterday. I can get continuity between "B" and "C" via clicking the switch, but no continuity through "A" regardless of the switch position. This is probably because the illumination is neon light with a resistor attached to it in series. I know this because I disassembled one of the switches yesterday but only up to the point where I realized that going further would be destructive. Not wanting to break the switch, I reassembled it.
Because it is physically the same terminal. It's simply drawn as it is to provide clarity in the layout of the circuit and the logical flow of the connections.
Same as above. This is a common way to represent connections for clarity in a diagram. If you see two (or more) terminal connections with the same label, it means that they are in fact physically connected either by a conductor, or because they really are the same physical point.
The assumption is that the load is connected to the right hand indicated terminals points which are extensions of terminals A and B. Note that a typical convention is to draw a circuit so that the signal or power 'flows' from left to right across the diagram.
In the physical installation you've probably got a hot (black) and neutral (white) wire supplying the power for the whole hood. There will be connections made with wire nuts. The white wire will connect directly to both loads via such a wire nut connection. The black mains wire will connect to both switches at their "C" terminals, then on to the loads via their "B" terminals.
If you want the lamps to light, run a separate wire from the "A" terminals to the white neutral wire nut connection. If the switches are adjacent, you should be able to daisy chain the "A" terminal connections and run a single wire to the mains neutral connection.
If you think about it, a switch is generally inserted into one leg of the mains, while the other is continuous (uninterrupted). Typically you would put the switch in the path of the 'hot' mains line, and the 'neutral' line is continuous from the power source through to the load:
That would short out the light leaving both of its ends connected to point "B" in the diagram. It would not light, because there would be no path through the light from "HOT" to "NEUTRAL".
The switch should interrupt the hot side. You can run neutral directly from the source to your fan and pigtail it to the A terminal for the lamp or run a separate wire from the neutral source to the lamp terminal.
o-------------------------------. Neutral | o---------------. | A | | ,---. .-. Lamp | = | | | '---' Fan | | | '-' | | Hot --- | | o-------o o-----o-----o---------' C B (created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05
Referring to the schematic cited above: Connect C to the line side black wire. Connect B to the load side black wire. Connect A to the white wire.
Ignore most of the replies you got - they simply give you too much information. Once you have it working, you can come back and look at the replies and learn from the "extra" information, but you don't need it (and it may confuse you) to get your light working the way you want.
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First of all, check whether your switch itself is ok. To do so:
- Connect the line wires to A and B. The light should be always on.
- Connect the line wires to A and C. The light should to be switched on and off by the switch. If not the switch and/or the lamp will be defective.
BTW Do *not* connect B and C to the line wires.
This switch can be used for two purposes:
- To signal whether or not the load is active.
- To light the switch continuously to make it visible even in the dark.
In the first case connect C to the active line and B to the load. In the second case connect B to the active line and C to the load. In both cases connect A to the neutral and to the load.
BTW You can check the switch with a low voltage. The lamp however will require about a 100Vac to ignite.
The live current from line to load flows through the switch. Hence the thick wires. The current from load to neutral does not flow through the switch except for a few mA to light the lamp. For this the thin wire will do.
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