Making something is good and relatively easy, when it doesn't work and you try to find out why is when the real learning begins. Apart from those who are gifted and can learn with no effort I have no doubt the people giving you advice here have gone through the same experience. Just stay calm and double check every thing. Best of luck.
If you look at the schematic and have some idea in your mind on how it is supposed to work... you take your multi-tester and measure a few things like the junction of the resistor and LDR. If it is greater than .6 volts the transistor (assuming you used a bipolar junction transistor) should switch on.
Or are you using the 555 schematic? (The trigger for a 555 has to be less than 1/3 the supply voltage) 12V supply the trigger has to dip lower than 4V...
Use logic and think about what is supposed to be going on then use the meter to see what is really going on.
Hmm, Well a common pitfall when starting in electronics is to copy all of some circuit. Plug it in and find it doesn't work. A better approach would be to build up one little part of it.. make sure you know how that little part is supposed to work, and confirm it's working as expected. (Or not and go figure out why.) Then add the next little piece.
OK I found the schematic again... and now I understand he's using the
555 as a simple latch to keep the buzzer on indefinitely
When there's light on the LDR Pin 6 should be low and pin 3 should be high. (presumably you toggled the toggle switch to set those conditions)
When light is interrupted Pin 3 goes low and turns on the buzzer until you flip the toggle switch to turn it off again
Do you have the toggle switch wired as shown? What voltage on pin 6 with light on the LDR, and what voltage on pin 6 with the light interrupted (blocked)? That voltage has the change significantly between light and dark.
When the voltage on pin 6 is greater than the voltage on pin 5, pin
3 should be high and the buzzer OFF.
When the voltage on pin 6 dips below 2/3d of your power supply voltage pin three should go low and stay low, and the buzzer should be ON until the toggle switch is toggled.
I'm surprised you have already forgot about the first transistor circuit you posted and then my response with a google search with 25 more transistor circuits. After I posted you answered the question to someone else, yes you are using the 555 circuit. I'm disappointed, you had a chance to learn how to bias a transistor on or off and then see how the changing resistance of your LDR would cause the switch on and off. You should find it interesting to bias a transistor to have the buzzer quiet, change the value of one resistor and make the buzzer buzz. Then put the original value back in with the LDR in parallel and see light make the buzzer go on and off. You were to quick to abandon the original circuit.
I had need of a break-beam photo detector in the 60's to keep my motorcycle from being stolen. I used a potentiometer, photocell, and SCR for the latch to keep a doorbell ringing. (the inductive kick and contacts opening meant it wouldn't latch until I added an electrolytic cap across the bell) We didn't have integrated circuits.
The OP can be comforted by the fact that expecting a circuit to work first time after building it is unduly optimistic. Even simple circuits it's easy to overlook something, no matter how experienced you become. IME (very considerable over 50+ years) the majority of circuits do NOT work first time and so need time spend re-checking everything. You just get quicker and quicker at the checking and testing procedures!
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