I have an 11 year old Magic Chef top-loading washing machine that suddenly won't work. It worked yesterday when I washed a small load. Today, it filled up with water just fine, then when it was to start agitating, it did so after a long pause. Then it agitated for about 5 seconds, paused 5 minutes, agitated, paused, repeat, repeat. The dial never changed and it would not work if I set it to Rinse or Spin.
I reported this behavior to a local appliance parts supplier and he said it could either be the timing switch, or, possibly, the motor. A switch on this machine is probably rather inexpensive, maybe $35, but the major savings is in the time NOT spent taking it seriously apart to look at the motor, or paying someone else to do that. The switch appears to be an easy fix.
Is there a way I can reasonably confirm the switch is truly the problem? After all, I can pick and choose from a huge number of washers and dryers for sale right now on my local Craigslist, as it is moving time for many folks. I can probably get a decent machine for $50 and the time I spend moving it.
Another possibility (which got me recently) is the lid closed switch. Try closing the lid a little more forcefully and see if that makes a difference. Or alternately press on and/or slam the lid while it's in the "pause" mode.
The only real way is to crack it open and look at it. Otherwise you need to get the service manual and check every contact against the programming which is no fun.
That's a good thought. My machine will agitate, however, with the lid open. It just won't spin. Maybe his is different. Most lid switches are easily accessible from the top of the machine, usually held just under the rim with one screw. If it can't be manually tripped with a pencil or some other stick, it usually can be unscrewed, pulled and checked. If it's a mechanical problem with the trip lever, they can be adjusted.
Mpfffff.... Three choices leap to mind in rank order (and you are going to need a VOM):
The timer motor is weak and/or the gear-train is dirty/crudded up so the motor cannot turn it properly. Fix Options:
a) get to the clock motor and gear-train, clean it out and lubricate it, then clean all the contacts and remove any crud or corrosion(and keep your fingers crossed). Works maybe 40% of the time for a brief period and costs only time. But keep in mind that the system is giving you fair-warning. b) replace the clock-motor cartridge. *IF* you can find one, cost maybe $8 -$20, a major PITA to do, but effective if the gear-train is also simultaneously cleaned and lubricated. And only if you are certain that the contacts themselves are not the problem.
The contactors are dirty and not making proper contact. This is somewhat contradictory to the symptoms you describe as you state that the dial does not change. However, some systems have a bi-metallic delay-contact that cuts out the clock-motor until it trips. If this is intermittent, it is *just* possible to get the symptoms you describe.
c) Replace the entire contactor mechanism, what you call the "timing switch" - this will approach the cost of another (reconditioned) machine as I remember, $130 or so unless this one fits:
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If so, that is cheaper than the cartridge and likely the way to go. Or, with the understanding that fair-warning is given, replace the bi- metallic delay contact... if you can find one. Another major PITA to do.
One of the solenoids that trip for various functions is either bad or the wires to it have broken. This is a surprisingly common failure often leading to new transmissions, pumps, motors and so forth. As the technician is replacing the _expensive_ part, he/she makes a show of replacing the spade-lugs "while I am here"... when it was a broken wire (held by the crimps, so not obvious) in the first place.
d) Check for continuity across the solenoid(s), and power to it (them). Replace the spade-lug or solenoid (they are relatively inexpensive and usually available) as needed.
The Lid Switch typically shuts down the entire mechanism, clock and all, when it is active. Not to say that you should not try it, but the intermittent behavior and lack of clock movement you describe makes that pretty unlikely. When it activates, there should be a distinct
*click* even when no power is applied, so test it with a small screwdriver before blaming it (unplugged, of course unless you know and understand electricity well and take the appropriate precautions).
I had thought this switch might be complicit, as the plastic hinge of the lid closest to the switch is broken and therefore the pressure on this switch may have been compromised. But even if I hold the switch down with a flathead screwdriver, the machine still behaves as I described.
Set the knob somewhere in the cycle with the lid up and listen for the motor. You can usually hear them run because of the gear reduction built in.
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I've seen plenty of timer motors fail. The same basic motor can be used in a multitude of timer related devices. One I'm familiar with is a day/time timer used to control motors. Out of a dozen or so devices I've probably replaced the motor once in each in maybe 15 years. If you're handy with a volt meter and know the risks of working on the unit while powered up it's easily trouble shot. Even unplugged one can determine if the motor winding is open with an ohm meter.
The lid switch on mine--as I described, and I have two Kenmore models which behave exactly the same--only prevents spin operations. I suspect that may be mandated by Federal rules, and the OP possibly lives in another jurisdiction.
It's the simplest thing to check, 'is' a possibility, however remote; so no reason to steer him away.
I have a possibly related problem with a Kenmore dryer. The selector never moves, in any mode, including 'timed'. I'm gonna pretty much assume that's a timer motor problem, but I've never heard of one failing before.
Try manually turning the timing switch to different modes then push or pull to star that mode. If the machine works in these modes bu the timer doesn't move on to the next mode then it's the timer.
Well it is possible that the motor would be the same, worth a second look anyway. If not you haven't lost anything except a few minutes of time comparing the two.
That's a good tip. I've got one dryer on it's way to dryer heaven with a good timer. I was thinking I'd have to source a model-specific unit. It never occurred to me that I could just replace the motor....
Bee.. Acts as the motor overload switch is tripping and resetting. This is caused by a bad motor or something in the mechanical system is over loading the motor. W W
If you have a way of measuring the voltage to the timer motor and you find the motor is getting power but the knob is not advancing then you can be reasonably sure the motor is bad.
On a dryer, almost certainly the timer motor or its wiring.
On a washeer, did anyone mention the water level pressure switch likely present?
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On old Maytags (don't know about Kenmore), there is a plastic pinion gear inside the motor that fits into another plastic piece that it drives. It broke at that point. I fixed mine with hot-melt glue about 5 years ago......
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