"Jeff Liebermann" "Phil Allison"
** Yawnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn................ ** It broadly refers to it being non alkalai - ie SOAP FREE !!!!!!!!That is, it will not irritate the skin on ones hands like ordinary soaps do and washing liquid is infamous for.
Been using them for 20 years myself.
Work very nicely at cleaning my electric shaver too.
... Phil
** Here is a pretty good pic of the insides of a 545B.
The AC tranny looks like it *might* be 500VA - but I expect Tek would use a conservatively rated unit with a low temp rise.
If the OP would care to measure the primary resistance - I can say for sure.
... Phil
this alleged balancing act have for the user? Too many unanswered questions."
Anything too acidic or alkaline would be bad. However that doesn't mean something with the "proper" Ph for skin will be exactly right for this.
Of course if rinsed thoroughly anything from 6 to 8 should be just fine.
over a very narrow range of pH. I don't recall the numbers, but it specifically avoids the typically pH=5.5 of skin so that it does *NOT* suds when first applied. Only after dilution with water, or a 2nd application does the pH of the mix increase to roughly a neutral pH=7, where it will produce suds. The obvious result is that users use twice as much shampoo as they would with one that would suds at any pH value. I suspect that hand and dishwashing soap may be similar, but I haven't bothered to check. "
Very interesting.
are bad and that it will need disassembly to replace those anyway. "
You wouldn't believe how long some of those old caps can last. When was the 561A made ? I had to only replace one. I had to replace one in my 7603.
"Trevor Wilson"
** Guess I am spoiled by my almost 30 year old BWD 821 ( dual trace 50MHz ) which weighs 7.8 kgs and consumes about 17 watts.... Phil
Compared to your usual critical comments, I presume that's a compliment. Thanks.
It can mean anything that marketing wants to claim. pH balanced may sound like a technical term, but it's not.
Yep. No residual lye.
I mostly use a home made Boraxo clone on my hands. About 95% borax laundry powder, and 5% soap flakes. I use either Ivory brand soap, shredded on a kitchen grater, or home made lye based soap where I used too my lye and ended up with a pH=11. After about 10 years, it's now down to about 9.0. No skin damage or drying (degreasing) evident after about 40 years of use.
By the numbers: Soap pH Dove 7.0 Lever 2000 9.0 Camay 9.5 Dial 9.5 Irish Spring 9.5 Ivory 9.5 Palmolive 10.0 Zest 10.0
I use a brush.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
You might be interested in what's in "pH balanced" shampoo. See: at the bottom right of the page. It's a bit tricky to read, but it's all there. Yech.
I haven't repaired too many old tube scopes. However, one of the first that I repaired had to be torn apart three more times, each time for yet another leaking or shorted electrolytic. After that experience, I would do either a pre-emptive replacement of all the big caps in the area or reform the caps if they looked marginal.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
"Jeff Liebermann" "Phil Allison"
** No it ain't.** Not when the words " soap free " are right there too. ** FFS -
wot a painful, boring, literal, tiresome pedant !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
.... Phil
**I found my 545A manual.
Power consumption is rated at 500 Watts. Weight is 65 pounds.
Fuse ratings:
6.25 Amp Slo-blo 3AG for 117VAC 50Hz 6 Amp fast blo 3AG for 117VAC 60Hz 3 Amp fast blo 3AG for 234VAC 60Hz 3 Amp slo-blo 3AG for 234VAC 50HzIt's an interesting old CRO. I loved and hated mine in equal measure. After I sold it, I bought a BWD, which I then swapped for a Tek 465B. The 465B was boring. It did everything flawlessly and never gave me a minute's trouble in more than 20 years.
The manual for the 545A occupies 50MB. I can post if you wish.
-- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
"Trevor Wilson"
** Hmmmmm.....Those numbers make me think the AC tranny is quite conservatively rated for voltage and frequency.
Doing so, reduces the severity of inrush surges quite a bit.
BTW 1:
If you operate a 240V rated tranny on 120V - there is barely ANY inrush surge at all.
( Electro caps in the PSU not withstanding. )
BTW 2:
The main source of inrush surge with tube gear is often due to all the tube heaters being cold at switch on - particularly if the rectifiers are vacuum tubes. The buggers take quite a time to warm up and increase in resistance too.
But the 545B uses selenium diodes - right?
.... Phil
Which reminds me, there's a time delay in there. I don't see it on the schematic (which is spread over many pages so I'm not sure which section it's in), but I suddenly remember there's a point when it starts up when things suddenly kick into operation. I seem to recall hearing the relay kick in. Since I can't find that on the schematic, I'm not sure what it's controlling.
I have the B manual and they are listed as silicon. I think I would have noticed selenium when I was inside the scope if they'd had them.
Michael
My admittedly 60 year old memory is that the A had selenium. At work we replaced them with some special silicon replacements when those became available. They were the same form factor so we just had to remove the old ones and put in the new ones. I wouldn't bet you could still get those, but it wouldn't be a very big job to put in a terminal strip and use 2n2006, or whatever is available now.
Bill
Whoops! 1n2006 not 2n2006. If there should happen to be a 2n2006 available it probably wouldn't make a good high voltage rectifier. Bill
On the advice of several folks here and in the basic electronics group I bought a used 465B 'scope several years ago. You are correct, if exitement is fixing a 'scope, the 465B is quite boring. Eric
The 545A manual says silicon, as well.
MDL is used in US equipment 14"*1-1/4" slow blow.
Not on 60 Hz.
Not true. A radio station engineer bought three from DMRO that didn't work. I managed to repair two, by scraping the third. Too many critical parts were NLA.
for PCBs though, when it comes to cabinetry and shit I dunno, dish soap seems really good.
We used a citrus based, water soluble solvent in a commercial stainless steel dishwasher to clean boards at the Microdyne factory.
**I doubt it. The CRO does use a time delay at switch-on.
-- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
Alright. I've done a whole lot in a short ammount of time. Cleaning out the Oscilloscope was no simple task, but It's done. Dried and everything. And, as luck would have it, my fuses arrived today. Now's the really tricky par t: finding the right fusecap.
Not so much as finding the right one, but making a temporary one until I ca n find a replacement one. I've also brushed up on my electronics vernacular , so I should have a much better idea of what you guys are talking about no w as well. Alright, so I haven't given it much thought yet, but I've read i n a couple of places that you can make your own fusecap using a machine scr ew and some electrical tape. Not sure on how WELL this would work, but I ha ve plenty of replacement fuses if something goes wrong so I'm not too worri ed. Is there an easier way to do this? I mean, I can assume the head of the machine screw would be on the outside while the other end would be holding the fuse in place. Hmmm... Any better ideas?
he Oscilloscope was no simple task, but It's done. Dried and everything. An d, as luck would have it, my fuses arrived today. Now's the really tricky p art: finding the right fusecap.
can find a replacement one. I've also brushed up on my electronics vernacul ar, so I should have a much better idea of what you guys are talking about now as well. Alright, so I haven't given it much thought yet, but I've read in a couple of places that you can make your own fusecap using a machine s crew and some electrical tape. Not sure on how WELL this would work, but I have plenty of replacement fuses if something goes wrong so I'm not too wor ried. Is there an easier way to do this? I mean, I can assume the head of t he machine screw would be on the outside while the other end would be holdi ng the fuse in place. Hmmm...
Scratch that last. Of course that wouldn't work. The fuse fits into the cap and so it would obviously stick out. Hmm, anything along the same principl e, then? Egh, it's been a long day -_-
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