1. Home
  2. Electronics Repair
  3. submersible water pump

submersible water pump

Hello I have a Johnson Red submersible water pump (model unknown)

240v 60Hz with two sensors (probably water level and heat).

There is 3 wires to the motor windings, start and two run. I have tried using a contactor (controlled by pressure switch) to no success. The contactors outputs the 240v but the pump won't start. The motor windings ohm OK.

I even tried to series the sensors with the pressure switch and the motor still won't run.

The pump motor IS good, it ran ok on a 'brain box' that went bad and fried itself, and cannot find another one. Hence the reason to try the contactor route.

Can anyone please help without trying to make me appear too stupid? Thanks a bunch, curt

Reply to
cm
Loading thread data ...

It's probably a PSC motor, in which case you connect power to the run winding and the capacitor between hot and the start winding. The value depends on the HP of the motor but they're usually between 15-30uF for

1/2-3/4 HP motors.
Reply to
James Sweet

If the motor windings, bearings, brushes, and etc are good, the starting capacitor may need replacing. I assume you checked everything else.

J. G.

Reply to
Jerry G.

There generally won't be brushes or a starting capacitor in a submersible pump, the ones I've seen have been PSC motors so only a run cap.

Reply to
James Sweet

Well, I have shown my own stupidity, I took someone else's word for the brand of pump, it's NOT a Johnson Red. When the pump was pulled from the well, it turns out to be a Pedrollo model 4PM/1 220v.

After talking with local pump people, they tell me this particular pump motor HAS to have a special 'brain' box to run. The one that was on it fried. The three wires to the pump all check ok, so the pump is ok. The pump people say this motor runs with the start windings in tack (does not remove the start winding like a conventional motor).

the windings ohm out to run=2ohms start=5ohms and Total=7ohms.

I've hooked up (through a contactor and a relay with 300mic capacitor) all the combinations that I can come up with, but all have failed to run or start the motor. Since this motor is made in Italy, then maybe it has something to do with the frequency having to be changed in the 'brain' box, I don't know. I really would appreciate any information I can get about how to run this motor without having to have the 'brain' box, if it is possible. Thanks a bunch

cm

Reply to
cm

Upon pulling the pump it was identified plus descovered what caused the box to fry, the pump itself was siezed. The motot is ok. I wish to thank everyone for their help. Thanks again, curt

Reply to
cm

Sounds exactly like a standard PSC (permanent split capacitor) motor, I bet the brain box is nothing but a controller, the pump motor should run fine with just a run capacitor wired in.

Reply to
James Sweet

You are correct, removed the pump from the motor and the motor ran like a top with Franklin box and contactors with relay controlled cap. Thank you so MUCH for you help. Thanks, cm

Reply to
cm

Relay controlled cap? So is it a capacitor start motor then? PSC would leave the capacitor connected, no relay needed other than maybe to switch the motor on and off.

Reply to
James Sweet

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.