stereo microscope to do SMT?

There are stereo long-reach microscopes available for very reasonable prices nowadays, but perhaps not as cheap as $75. I paid about 5 times that for mine, but it has paid for itself many times over. I agree with everything that Smitty said on the subject. I suppose I would have to add that it depends on what your line of useage is going to be. If you are a hobbyist just doing the occasional bit of sm work on home projects, then a good light and a good quality headband magnifier ( I use one of those as well ) or a jewellers loupe might be all that you need. If you are going to be working with the stuff commercially, on a daily or even weekly basis, then I would recommend a decent self illuminating microscope, as a worth-every-penny addition to your workshop equipment.

Arfa

I don't think you need a microscope, but i certainly use magnifiers, The scope is good for inspecting very closly. A cheap microscope is around $300

greg

Cool, Well I guess I'll give the mag glasses a shot and see if i have any problems then spring for a good video mag or stereo scope :) I hear two sides on those two items also but time will tell. Thanks much for info!!! Wayne

Also Does one "tin" the board first before plopping the dinky little MSOP-8 chip on it? Suck the solder off with wick? and what kind of rosin besides what is in the solder is best? Thanks again for your time Sir's ! Wayne

Definately tin the board.. I mostly use a very thin solder of 63/37 leaded solder.

greg

I always tin the board first, then wick the excess back off until the pads are really smooth. I then 'tack' one end or one pin of the device to the board using just heat from the iron and the tinning on the component pin and pad. I then examine the positioning really closely with the magnification. If I am happy that the component is located exactly correctly, I will hold it in place with the tip of a scalpel, and tack solder another pin and then re-examine the positioning. If all is still well, then I go ahead and solder it in fully.

A liquid flux is absolutely essential for the soldering process as it assists the solder to flow by capilliary action between the pins and pads much more readily, which helps really significantly with not getting inter-pin shorts with fine pin-pitch sm components. Very fine gauge 'angel hair' solder is also a must. The flux that I use comes in an aerosol can, and is made by Electrolube and is their product SMFL 200. It is very cheap, and very very effective.

Of course, all this assumes that you are talking 'conventional' hand soldering. The best way is to use paste solder and hot air, but I don't think that you are talking that level of professional at this point ?? It is all down to practice and confidence to get good results, and is really not that difficult if you use a fine tipped iron with enough heat, and are reasonably skilled at normal size soldering. If you do get shorts between IC pins, don't worry about them at the time. Just note where they are, and carry on. Go back to them at the end with a good quality wick placed against the vertical face of the pin, and reheat. the excess solder will readily come out from between the pins, without compromising the joint. Before your final examination under magnification, clean up with a flux remover. For this I use a Servisol aerosol product. You will be amazed at how good a job you can do with a little practice.

Arfa

Well, even though I didn't spend as much as I should have (125.00) on it I have a hot air station on the way. I've always hated touching something that is electric against such sensitive stuff. Don't even know the brand but the several reviews on it said it was good for the money and for the small numbers of SMT's I'll be doing :)