SPDIF to Analog converter.

This isn't a repair question how ever, I need a SPDIF to analog converter because My LCD TV only has SPDIF for audio output, my new Home theater only has LINE inputs (stereo) but does have digital output? (go figure).

I would like one that passes the 5.1 signal, so that my surround system will process it.

Those I have found, seem to indicate this 5.1 signal is filtered out?

Actually, its not that early, I just got it(New)!

It was a gift so it's not like an easy return.,,.

It has USB, SD card options, HDMI outputs, Component outputs and LINE input . Along with a COAX digital programmable output!.

it just does not have a SPDIF input on it. and the TV does not have the analog line output.. It does have how ever, a head jack (stereo) output which I am wondering if that carries the 5.1 signal ?

admittedly, it's a cheap system..

Don't know if this will work:

Will a Creative Labs EMU1212 convert for you?

It has 24 bit SPDIF port built in and they cost $100 to $200

From experience using them, that 24 bits is REAL, well, at least 23 of it.

I'm not associated with Creative Labs, or gain from their sales.

Originally I have evaluated the performance of both the EMU0404 and the EMU1212 and started using their products when the 1212 exceeded performance of my $3,500 Data Acquisition system! Since then, have used the 1212 several times in different projects.

Robert

O.K. My Mistake, the O.P. should plug the HDMI output from his TV to the HDMI output on his HTIB and enjoy all the Dolby Digital UNCOMPRESSED! Surround Sound there is.

Of course I'm lying. He wants to get the HTIB to do something it wasn't designed to do. That is, decode a 5.1 Dolby Digital stream via external source. The HTIB was obviously made for DVD viewing and decoding the surround sound stream from DVD players.

Even if they made a box which would decode 5.1 channels how would he feed it to the surround sound system which more than likely doesn't have the 5 channel and 1 low frequency inputs?

The solution is that he needs to buy an entirely new surround sound system.

Dori, your pointless use of nasty/vulgar language is not appreciated.

Oh, you poor baby!

He or she is doing it for the sake of doing it. And if he/she used the N word or the K word, he/she would be quickly struck down by the group.

What 5.1 signal comes from a TV? Just curious.

Most any amp/receiver with 7.1 or even 5.1 built within the past 8 years should have a digital input.

Since Jamie has broken the cardinal rule of not supplying model numbers we haven't a clue what on earth he has.

However, if the surround setup is some sort of cheep and cheery integrated system that includes a built-in DVD player, then there is a chance it may not include an input for Dolby Digital/DTS carried over S/PDIF type connections, to connect his TV.

Should that TV have a standard analog stereo output which will include the original Dolby Surround information from the transmitted film soundtracks. Maybe there might be smarts inside the surround system to process that as Pro Logic. Dunno. No model number.

If the system Pro Logic capable, and line level analog stereo audio is not available on the TV, I think Jamie should be capable, as someone who has an FCC radio ticket, of wielding a soldering iron and sorting that out. Or padding down the headphone output.

Or buying a better (and 5.1/7.1) home theatre system based around a separate amplifier/receiver, and using the digital connection.

Both my DVR and DVD output lightpipe into a 7.1 Sony RX. The Sony is set to select the proper decoding based on the transmitted signal. On Dolby 2.1 signals it operates in Pro Logic II. I only have a 3.2.1 speaker setup. All of it is 9 years old except the DVR and DVD. I use the 51" Panasonic for a monitor only. Previously the former Sony RX of

I tried the head phone output, that does work also how ever, I need to pass that through a impedance match amp to properly match that.. It just does not have the volume level needed, but does work. I may resort to that since that is a simple project I can through together.

I know this system is a cheapy, but it was a gift. And yes, it's an integrated system..

I could just simply give it away to my kid how ever, he has the same tv and it wouldn't work either..

This unit is sold as a Colby 1000Watt system. And take my word for it. the 1000Watt is a full out lie!.

You don't need to be an electrical engineer to quickly discover this when you examine the AC mains max demand that is labeled on the device!.

Coby. 1000w my ass.

Look like that? It is what it is.....

Yes, its close to it. The one I have has all of that plus it as a USB and SD card reader in the back. Maybe this one also has it but just doesn't state it.

And of course, the Wattage is a big fat lie!..

They must be using some metric other than what we're accustom to. The supplied wire for the speakers at best is, 22 AWG and may even be 24 AWG.

I once saw a labeling on a package from china, I can't remember the exact abbreviation used.. but something like PM,.CM ,PCM etc wattage.. Must be a different scale of watts! ;)

I'm not trying to defend a piece of junk, but a system *can* be designed to handle that peak power without drawing that same amount of power from the mains. Back in the days of just regular stereo, I was always amazed that I could play my system at an almost painful level and with the average power to the speakers remaining below 5 watts. Of course, the peaks were many many times higher. A good system would put out 5 watts with 200 watt peaks. A cheap system would put out 5 watts with 10 watt peaks. The difference in sound quality was very obvious. Anyway, my only point is the peak power output of any system can be a lot more than multiplying the mains volatage by the mains current. Large power supply capacitors provide the energy for the short peaks.

The actual output wattage vs the computed instentanious peak wattage is the key to wattage measurements. Every manufacturer uses their own formulas but most actually include the wasted current used by the output stages as actual effective wattage.

I had a Fisher unit that was rated at only 8 watts from 8 to 20,000 cycles and it was far superior to the then current 2-300 watt peak stereos because the rating on the Fisher was 8 watts continuous across an

As far as I know Fisher was the only maker that ever used actual power output in their ratings.

They generated a very stiff power supply by using 65,000 MF filter caps on the positive and negative supplies with a very heavy power transformer. The total voltage across the output IC pacs was around 120V total and the power supply was fused at 5 amps max.

So yes it is possible to build a quality system but cheap usually wins out over quality.

Gnack

These unrealistic sounding figures are not always an out and out lie - as such. More the way that they are marketed to the public. For a start, they always use some proprietry "backpedalling peak music with a good following wind into 1 ohm" type power measurement, which results in a figure of 180 watts for a channel based on a car radio output IC, that can actually do about 5 watts RMS on a good day, if you're lucky. Then, they add all the channels together. So if you have an eight channel amplifier, it becomes very easy to reach figures like "1000 watts" ...

I recall back in the day, Sir Clive Sinclair bringing out a small IC based power amp, before the public really understood what a chip was. The power output for this thing was claimed at some ridiculous figure like 30 watts. The story goes that this figure had been achieved for 1 second with the thing cooled in liquid nitrogen, or some such nonsense :-)

Probably the stuff of urban myth, but the actual amp was, I suspect, capable of no more realistically, than 2 watts RMS.

Arfa

I don't recall ever seeing a home surround system that didn't have some kind of digital input.

Run the headphone out into the secondary of a transistor radio audio transformer and experiment with padding the signal on the primary side. You could do this for both channels once you found the proper padding. Max signal input is usually 1 volt p-p @ 600 ohms.