Soldering Tinsel Headset Headphones Earphone Coated Fine Wire

In my recent quest for 4 conductor right angle connector cables, I received some small diameter, very flexible cable assemblies.

The first cable I cut for a custom application had many very fine, round stranded (not flat foil) spiral wound around a synthetic thread with each individual strand coated (not jacketed) with a thin colored coating. No other insulation or shielding was found.

This highly flexible wire is what I've been finding lately in cheap headsets and earbuds. The separate conductors are bundled together in a molded/extruded plastic jacket with different colored coatings on each conductor.

I'd read that paint stripper would remove the colored coating/insulator, so that was tried.. after 15-20 minutes some of the coating could be removed by wiping the ends with a cotton swab. Additional stripper was applied and set aside for over a half-hour.. the stripper had become colored by the dissolved coating, and wiped of very cleanly.

I wound some 30ga wirewrap around the ends to form an improvised strain relief for the fine bundles, then placed this cable aside to try a different method.

On another section of the same cable, I placed the bundled ends on a scrap of clean wood and just wiped the dry tip of my soldering iron several times along the bundles, moving toward the ends. The heat was effective at removing the colored coatings from the bundles.. turning the cable over to get the ends thoroughly cleaned to the bare copper.

The bundles were then individually covered with the smallest heatshrink tubing (maybe 1/64" dia) with the bare ends left exposed. The 4 sections of small shrinktubing were joined together and to the plastic cable jacket with a larger diameter section of shrinktubing (over a very small amount of hot glue applied to the junction area).

The wirewrap treated ends would've been problematic for this particular application since the 4 cable leads needed to be soldered to tiny terminals that fit in a nylon connector. The shrink tubing needed to be gripped/secured by the terminal tabs intended to be crimped to/imbedded in a plastic insulation for added strength.

With the approx 1/32" bare ends soldered to the terminals and the tabs securing the shrinktubing, the connection was fairly secure. For additional strength a small amount of hot glue was applied to the short lengths of heatshrink tubing entering the connector body, followed by another section of larger heatshring tubing to cover all, effectively making an improvised molded cable end connection/strain relief.

I like a better quality cable for these assemblies, but I wasn't able to find right angle TRRS plugs in 2.5 and 3.5mm sizes. The cable which as been working well for me is Mogami type 2929.. an ultraflexible miniature 28ga (fine stranded copper) 4-conductor (plus a spiral-wound copper shield) with an outer diameter of ~0.110".

--
Cheers, 
WB 
.............
Reply to
Wild_Bill
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received

headsets

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by

different

times

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with

terminals

intended

short

making

It is quite easy to make a hot-moulding jig for hot-melt glue. If split-mould not made of PTFE then coat whatever suitable material with thick PTFE plumber's tape. Fix the 2 halves either side of a hinge and force the 2 halves together over the hot-melt swathed joint. Fettle the sprew lines (look that up in your Funk & Wagnells). Coloured hotmelt available from craft stores.

Reply to
N_Cook

There are specialty heatshrink tubing products which have a heat sensitive adhesive on the inner surface. One type is used for direct-burial electrical splices.

I use a thin coating of hot glue under shrink tubing since it makes the closure more secure.. improved tensile strength and mechanical stability/support. The junction can be flattened between 2 flat surfaces (not your fingers) while it's still hot to form a neater looking junction (or ironed/rolled flat with the cooler/upper section of a soldering iron barrel.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, 2 or 3 flat pieces of plastic can be hollowed out to create a cavity for the splices, then filled with hot glue or epoxy to close.

Black hot glue would be handy for a lot of fixes (might melt/reflow in a hot car, though), but sticks of hard setting thermoplastic would be better, IMO. Problem is, fumes from hot plastics can be really nasty.

--
Cheers, 
WB 
............. 


"N_Cook"  wrote in message  
news:kic6nl$13m$1@dont-email.me... 
> 
> It is quite easy to make a hot-moulding jig for hot-melt glue. If 
> split-mould not made of PTFE then coat whatever suitable material with  
> thick 
> PTFE plumber's tape. Fix the 2 halves either side of a hinge and force the  
> 2 
> halves together over the hot-melt swathed joint. Fettle the sprew lines 
> (look that up in your Funk & Wagnells). Coloured hotmelt available from 
> craft stores. 
> 
>
Reply to
Wild_Bill

sensitive

electrical

glue

hot

IMO.

I suppose you can try ski repair "candle" plastic. Presuming it is still available and a decent electrical insulator.

?-)

Reply to
josephkk

electrical

hot

IMO.

the

I've never found black or grey hotmelt, have to make my own mixing with copier toner and perhaps 2 passes through the hotmelt gun to get good mixing. Squirt out into string and gather up and fold and twist to pass through again.

Reply to
N_Cook

Yep, I've seen other types of products where the end of stick of material is heated over a flame, then applied as a repair to fill scatches, nicks etc.. but the convenience of the hot glue gun would be a simple method.

Although hot glue sticks have their limitations.. if something were left on a car dashboard on a sunny day, it may turn into a puddle (for example).

There are some home shop-type plastic injection molding machines for forcing the melted plastic into mold cavities, but a fairly expensive method for occassional use. Benchtop injection molder:

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Shapelock low temp formable plastic:

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Various epoxies are routinely used in molds made of silicone rubber, and the silicone can duplicate some fine details of the original part.

Mentioned previously, epoxy putty is fast and durable for objects like enclosing junctions.

There are other products which would also work more-or-less for making small molded or shaped pieces.. machineable wax and other prototyping materials, and some are reuseable.

I used to see a powder plastic repair product at electronics suppliers, but never tried it.. mix solvent with powder, let dry, color to suit. This is it:

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Demonstration:
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Looking for it, I discovered something that may be similar (but likely costs more) called Nail Acrylic Powder (for making/repairing weemins' fingernails.

Another solvent/powder product is Plast-aid Repair Kit.

--
Cheers, 
WB 
............. 


"josephkk"  wrote in message  
news:nl1rk85l2b2c7fpbqfkejdl9hkqbljcuuq@4ax.com... 
On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 18:56:03 -0400, "Wild_Bill" 
 wrote: 

>There are specialty heatshrink tubing products which have a heat sensitive 
>adhesive on the inner surface. One type is used for direct-burial  
>electrical 
>splices. 
> 
>I use a thin coating of hot glue under shrink tubing since it makes the 
>closure more secure.. improved tensile strength and mechanical 
>stability/support. 
>The junction can be flattened between 2 flat surfaces (not your fingers) 
>while it's still hot to form a neater looking junction (or ironed/rolled 
>flat with the cooler/upper section of a soldering iron barrel. 
> 
>As I mentioned in an earlier post, 2 or 3 flat pieces of plastic can be 
>hollowed out to create a cavity for the splices, then filled with hot glue 
>or epoxy to close. 
> 
>Black hot glue would be handy for a lot of fixes (might melt/reflow in a  
>hot 
>car, though), but sticks of hard setting thermoplastic would be better,  
>IMO. 
>Problem is, fumes from hot plastics can be really nasty. 

I suppose you can try ski repair "candle" plastic.  Presuming it is still 
available and a decent electrical insulator. 

?-)
Reply to
Wild_Bill

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