Over the years I've done hundreds of joints with active flux, usually replacing damaged connectors with one's salvaged from a scrap loom, I've never had a repair fail although I do give the joint a quick wipe with a damp rag before burning on the heat shrink tube.
I'm sure that tens of millions of technicians and plumbers world wide with thank you for telling them that what they have been doing successfully for years really isn't working!!! Bull shit.
At the point where the flux liquefies and begins to boil......but before it burns to a crisp.....THAT is when you apply the solder......or at least those of us who know what we are doing do.
Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
-- Keith
Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of applications) for a bit longer than you then.
In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.
You are the one that said flux burns. I am the one that said if you do it RIGHT, it does NOT burn......regardless of the source, paste or core or flowing in a machine.
Screw you. I have probably done and supervised more solder joints in my 40 year career than you have seen or imagined.
The confusion is entirely understandable as many pencil blowtorches come with a soldering attachment and some butane soldering irons come with a blowtorch fitting.
The soldering iron kits usually cost more than pencil blowtorches so I'd hope they work better than the soldering attachment that came with the pencil blowtorch I have.
I can only offer one data point. I bought an Archer branded butane soldering iron 20 years ago from Radio Shack. It still works fine, yes you pay attention to where the exhaust is pointed...but like soldering it is just a matter of paying attention to what is going on. I dunno, people have told me they don't work well but I just keep using it and turning out decent work for what I do.
Remind me *never* to even consider having you make any electrical repairs for me.
For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for wiring connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here is totally ridiculous.
But don't take my word for it:
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They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."
Sheesh.
--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won\'t use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn\'t work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn\'t need me".
- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won\'t use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn\'t work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn\'t need me".
- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
He means for shitty 20 year old automotive or marine wire thats got so much corrosion on it you can't brush it up. I've seen wire like this plenty of times and rosin core flux won't touch it. I usually use cripms on this kind of job, but acid flux also works.
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