Over the years I've done hundreds of joints with active flux, usually replacing damaged connectors with one's salvaged from a scrap loom, I've never had a repair fail although I do give the joint a quick wipe with a damp rag before burning on the heat shrink tube.
"Paul aka Sporty" wrote in news:9C%kl.124$ snipped-for-privacy@newsreading01.news.tds.net:
that's the "iffy" part....the -complete- cleaning.
"ian field" wrote
I'm sure that tens of millions of technicians and plumbers world wide with thank you for telling them that what they have been doing successfully for years really isn't working!!! Bull s*it.
At the point where the flux liquefies and begins to boil......but before it burns to a crisp.....THAT is when you apply the solder......or at least those of us who know what we are doing do.
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Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
-- Keith
OK, so you were a precocious 10 year old kid. Too bad you haven't matured...
Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down the road the joint will fail.
46 years of soldering and still learning new "Tricks".
You're really good at twisting words aren't you - especially having snipped all the relevant content that would have shown up your twisted rant.
With cored solder the solder is applied simultaneously with the flux - not after the flux has burned as you mischievously suggest.
I suggest you try to find a topic you know squat about to criticise!
Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
-- Keith
Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of applications) for a bit longer than you then.
In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.
"ian field" wrote
You are the one that said flux burns. I am the one that said if you do it RIGHT, it does NOT burn......regardless of the source, paste or core or flowing in a machine.
Screw you. I have probably done and supervised more solder joints in my 40 year career than you have seen or imagined.
and yet I'm STILL more mature and intelligent than you. I DO, I don't need to explain.
-- Keith
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o fagreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical applications.
-- Keith
agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical applications.
-- Keith
I use what works - and keeps on working for many years afterward.
The confusion is entirely understandable as many pencil blowtorches come with a soldering attachment and some butane soldering irons come with a blowtorch fitting.
The soldering iron kits usually cost more than pencil blowtorches so I'd hope they work better than the soldering attachment that came with the pencil blowtorch I have.
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I aI can only offer one data point. I bought an Archer branded butane soldering iron 20 years ago from Radio Shack. It still works fine, yes you pay attention to where the exhaust is pointed...but like soldering it is just a matter of paying attention to what is going on. I dunno, people have told me they don't work well but I just keep using it and turning out decent work for what I do.
I am certain there are better ones available now.
-- keith
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Okay, I just go by what I was taught by a radio station engineer in the 70's. He'd been doing it since the late 50's.
-- Keith
On 2/14/2009 9:58 AM ian field spake thus:
Remind me *never* to even consider having you make any electrical repairs for me.
For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for wiring connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here is totally ridiculous.
But don't take my word for it:
They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."
Sheesh.
I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting it wrong.
On 2/15/2009 12:36 PM ian field spake thus:
You said, and I quote:
That stuff is acid flux. Wrong flux for wiring.
He means for s***ty 20 year old automotive or marine wire thats got so much corrosion on it you can't brush it up. I've seen wire like this plenty of times and rosin core flux won't touch it. I usually use cripms on this kind of job, but acid flux also works.
"Michael Kennedy" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Idea; use one those anti-fluxes first to block acid flux from getting up where it can't be cleaned off,before soldering. Like the Tix anti-flux.
I still would try Tarn-X first to clean the corrosion off the wire.
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