Scooter Soldering Kit Battery

I wanna know if I can hot wire my scooter battery to a regular

12v/60w soldering iron to do local soldering repairs without going to the other fuel/chemical bonding methods for safety ????

I know most soldering kits, you buy or build, usually require a standard wall socket 120v/60w soldering iron and some 4AA batteries....

So I was wondering what would happen if I used a 12volt SLA 8 amp battery, since the wall outlet is a about 90watts and the 12volt SLA battery is also some 96 watts although it drops quickly to an easy 11 volts because of a burned cell I'm guessing....

The math is there but some other factor is missing, I can't see the power of a 12volt SLA battery to a mere 4 AAs ...........has anybody ever tried this with a regular soldering iron for outdoor use???

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Reply to
Bob
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"Bob" wrote

Yes. You should have stopped right there........

......as the rest of your post pretty much makes no sense.

Also, for about $5 from Harbor Freight or JC Whitney or similar you can get a pencil size butane torch.

Reply to
Who Me?

The pencil size butane torch I have works very well - unfortunately the catalysing solder tip that came with it is about as much use as a chocolate teapot!

Reply to
ian field

"ian field" wrote

OK, so we are left with two options:

1) Practice soldering with a bare butane flame. The pencil torches can be adjusted (after a short warm-up) to a flame small enough to do the job.......but that IS an acquired skill. OR 2) Spend a few extra bucks and get a "real" butane soldering pencil. I have one and it works very good......."catalyzing" tip and all!
Reply to
Who Me?

When I was working for Hughes Aircraft Company on prototype electromechanical systems back in the late 1960's, one lab had a neat little gadget called a "water welder".

It somehow used electricity to generate a flammable gas that came out of the tiniest hole in the tip and I could use that flame to solder sheet brass into compartmented prototype electronic chasses...

Reply to
.

I'm not familiar with the device, but the description given of "water welder" would imply the gas might be H2 (Hydrogen) which is indeed highly flammable! Simple electrolysis of water (H2O) with an electric current would produce both hydrogen and oxygen for combustion. The trick would be in controlling the combustion process and in dealing with the resulting byproduct water that was produced.

Bob

When I was working for Hughes Aircraft Company on prototype electromechanical systems back in the late 1960's, one lab had a neat little gadget called a "water welder".

It somehow used electricity to generate a flammable gas that came out of the tiniest hole in the tip and I could use that flame to solder sheet brass into compartmented prototype electronic chasses...

Reply to
Bob Shuman

"." wrote

Aw hell. Now that's just downright disappointing. I thought for sure you would tell us about the job you had when you INVENTED fire. ;-)

Reply to
Who Me?

TED

You're confused. The job title of my ancestor who discovered fire was "Cave Bear Killer"... ;-)

Reply to
.

|>Mark Olson wrote: |>... |>> I was going to disagree but having thought about it I must agree. |>> Under what circumstances would you need to *solder* anything on |>> a bike or scooter, that couldn't wait until you reach someplace |>> with mains power? ... |>

|>I know Bob and if he's still living in that colourful part of town I remember, he must do his own maintenance on the street without access to household power. (Heh, heh, I'm lucky, relatively speaking, my trailer has a power outlet, only problem is in winter when I have to remember to turn off various appliances inside because of the whopping 30 amp service in the park!)

Thanx for all the input, but I came to the conclusion that I would rather not risk "toasting" my soldering iron....one calculative post said it would... in Message-ID:

The fact being that it is not absolutely necessary like an emergency (when losing an iron would mean nothing).....although it may be a practical emergency application, but who is going to tote a soldering iron around under the already filled under seat scooter storage space.

I can get the bike to mains in my other place, but my parking place has no electrical conveniences....

I needed to solder some 20 gauge wiring to those fine little piezo speaker/siren/buzzer wires.

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Reply to
Bob

gular

Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.

--
Keith
Reply to
S'mee

|>> 12v/60w soldering iron to do local soldering repairs without going to the |>> other fuel/chemical bonding methods for safety ???? |> |>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy sometimes..

Maybe I'll go rob a crack head for his butane lighter for all the use I would need it for on this crampy plastic application....

Reply to
R. LaCasse

Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.

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    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW 
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Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually oxidised, the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.

Reply to
ian field

Very BAD idea. Plumbers flux is acid based and that is not what you want on wires.

Ian Singer

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Reply to
Ian Singer

Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.

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Reply to
Paul aka Sporty

It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands off and start all over again!

Reply to
ian field

"ian field" wrote in news:Cd%kl.53463$% snipped-for-privacy@newsfe16.ams:

soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with rosin flux,if that would be better?

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Jim Yanik
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Reply to
Jim Yanik

Always remember to slide a piece of shrink wrap up the wire BEFORE starting. That's the 1st step in a clean solder joint, All metal must be clean and bright, Then flux and heat to temp, Tinning sometimes makes the job quicker, After feeding solder and getting a smooth flow allow to cool before moving to avoid a cold solder joint.

Reply to
Paul aka Sporty

Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down the road the joint will fail.

Reply to
Paul aka Sporty

Capillary action will pull the acid up the insulator when heated and the joint will fail down the road :(

Reply to
Paul aka Sporty

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