Repairing LCD TV - Westinghouse LTV-32W3

You can purchase a 120V AC fan at an electrical store, but make sure it not too fast or you will hear it. Most computer fans are 12V and will work with just about any 12V converter that you laying around, or you can get one at an electronics stores.

If it was me, I'd put a small fan in the lower right (viewed from the back) section pointing towards the side (just below where the power cable connects) to suck air from the inside. You can get those same style fans in

115 VAC (GOOGLE is your friend) so as not to have to deal with another power supply. BTW, computer fans are usually 12 V not 5 V.

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Is the case itself getting hot? If so, simply sticking on some passive heat sinks might do the job, something like:

J.

A fan will only solve the problem temporarily.

Why? Because the TV worked okay for over a year before developing this symtom. That means something has changed or deteriorated. You have what is called a "thermal intermittant". That's a problem that shows itself when things get either hot or cold. The problem is either a solder connection that is going bad or a component that is failing. If it is a component that is failing, it may be stressing other components at the same time.

You are ultimately not going to win this one. That much is certain. If the TV isn't worth a trip to the shop for a proper diagnosis and repair, then you have nothing to lose except the time and effort. Even with your makeshift work-around, it's days are numbered. The problem will get worse until there is a more profound failure.

And should you put a fan in be sure to use a filter. Dust is another enemy of small electronics.

Those bands are the most common failure mode for LCDs. There is some kind connector inside with a lot of pins. The heat is making them loose contact.

I don't think it's cost effective to repair, but if you succeed let us know. I have 2 LCDs with this problem that I'm going to dispose of in the spring cleanup.

a

Well - I tried to repair it - the technician kept it on for over 1 hour, but the TV worked OK. I noticed that the temperature in his shop was much lower then in my apartment - I told him, but technician gave up and refused to give estimate. I enjoy to play with electronics gadget, so even my project will fail - for me it is fun.

Zalek

I noticed the dust collection on my PC motherboard, but how do you apply dust filter?

Another question - computer fans run on AC or DC?

Thanks,

Zalek

Zalek

Frys and other electronics shops have cans of "circuit cooler" that can be used to chill a suspect part. You might be able to pinpoint the part that has changed value over time. I would tend to look at electrolytic capacitors first, then stressed diodes or transistors.

Also, try repair shops that have worked on that model, most likely it is developing a reputation that a tech has seen before. try the electronics repair boards, or google that model and "+trouble".

-- larry / dallas

power

It should be on the intake of the fan. As for AC/DC I dont' honesly know, but I recall that most I've run across seem to be DC.

If it was me, I think I would try to figure out what is actually wrong with it first. Fitting a fan is attacking the symptoms rather than the cause, and if a component such as an electrolytic cap is failing, or a bad joint is starting to show up, it is unlikely that its demise will be arrested for good, merely by the addition of a fan. It's a bit like going to the doctor and telling him that you get short of breath when you climb the stairs, and his 'fix' for your problem being to suggest installing a stairlift ...

An intermittent problem such as is shown in your film, and that is clearly heat related, should not be difficult to find, if you approach it armed with a hair dryer, and a can of freezer. If it then proved to be an 'unrepairable' fault such as one of the LSIs, or even just a bad joint on one, that you likely wouldn't be able to fix with basic home soldering equipment, then you might consider that your TV has terminal lung cancer, and the best you can do is to get what remaining life out of it that you can, by installing that 'stairlift' !

Arfa

wmv

The case is probably for reducing elelctromagnetic interference and for physical protection of the parts.

As other posters have said, a fan will probably only prolong the time until the TV fails again. I think a little alternate heat, from a hair dryer, and a can of circuit coolant spray might help you to find the area of the problem.

If it was me, I would just run the set with the case open and wait and see, as long as there is no one who could get hurt by running the set with the covers off.

I would try to troubleshoot the set to find the components that have become thermo sensitive, and change them. Then I would put in a fan if I thought the set was running too hot.

If you have some thermo sensitive components in the TV set, with time they will keep degrading until they fail. At this point, the problem may be more serious.

--

Jerry G.

I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1

1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms appeared: The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is to install small fan to make a better cooling. I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:

here electonic parts with metal case removed: I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers - can you recommend one? Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power this fan?

Thanks,

Zalek

On Feb 3, 7:07=A0pm, "Jerry G." wrote: > I would try to troubleshoot the set to find the components that have > become thermo sensitive, and change them. Then I would put in a fan if I > thought the set was running too hot. >

50" DLP. The tuner was getting flaky when it got warmed up and would begin stuttering. I found a rather warm IC (80 + pin Quad Flat Pack) that seemed to operate better when cooler. I added a low speed fan (12 volt unit running on 7) 3 years ago and it's working fine. The tuner has a VERY convenient way to do this as it has a 4 pin connector identical (including pinout) to an IDE hard drive. I snagged a mating connector from a junk PC power supply and connected the fan between the +12 and +5. A little hot glue anchored the fan to the case.

Some faults are easier to 'band-aid' than to actually repair. I don't know if is bad solder outside the chip or a potential fault inside it but it has run over 6000 hours 'broken'.

I also have an old Sony digital audio processor that was inproperly heat sinked on a regulator chip. It's not very common but not unheard of to ship marginal design units.

SO, if the fan makes it work, enjoy it and don't lose sleep over it.

GG

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Most competent technicians would have had a heat gun and a spot heater and known how to use them to induce thermal problems to make them present themselves.

Very basic technique in TV repair.

It's one thing to 'fix' by proper heat control when something is flaky 'out of the box' so to speak. It's a little different when the problem is caused by heat over a period of time. Then things go bad, and replacement is often the only option.

I have a DVD recorder with a known heat problem. Finally the marginal filter caps died and the machine just 'freaked out'. I did serious thermal improvements, replaced the filters and got the ps working. I haven't dx'd it yet, but although most symptoms disappeared, it's still not 'right'.

I found a novel way to add a fan to that one: the molex connector from the ps had spacing which was perfect for the fan connector (from a cpu heatsink). I cut two small pieces of wire from a paperclip and forced them into the top of the connector on the 12v line. Thus I was able to plug the fan in a sort of 'piggy back' fashion, without soldering or splicing any lines...nice, clean, secure connection.

jak

It's like putting a BandAid on a skin Melanoma.

-1.wmv

It's an LCD, which means it's more than likely a low voltage device.=20 Doesn't take much more than 12V tops to run them.=20

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