RCA projector tube leak

Good day all!

I have a RCA P60152CK rear projection unit that appears to have a coolant leak in the green picture tube. I have removed the light box from the unit and removed the green tube and lens assembly from the light box. I know for sure it is leaking because the coolant that had accumulated in the anode cap cover ended up in my lap. :|

Anyhow, I have a decent amount of experience working on video game monitors, but this is my first foray in to projection TV repair. I have done some reading of previous posts on coolant leaks, but I'm still not

100% certian of the procedure for repairing the leak. I have seen black and copper RTV mentioned a few times, and I just want to make sure that I know what I am doing before I take this unit apart. I am assuming that to seal up the tube I have to remove the 4 bolts that hold the metal frame and lens assembly to the face of the crt and separate the crt and lens. Then I clean up the surface of the tube, lay a bead of silicone around the outside of the lens and bolt the whole thing back together. Sound about right?

It also looks like the only way I can get to the anode cap to clean and reseal it is to pull the bolts and the metal frame off anyhow.

My major concerns are a: contaminating the coolant somehow and b: putting everything back together and finding I have an air bubble in the inside of the lens.

Can someone let me know if I am on the right path for this? Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! James

Reply to
Grauwulf
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Reply to
radiotech

You may not have too bad a problem. Was the expansion Boot pushed out? (Boot & ring With 4 1/4 head screws ) If it was some of these sets left factttory OVERFILLED with coolant. Lay tube & lense on bench with this exp boot up, remove the 4 screws If coolant runs out it is overfull Lower level to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below point where screws go in. Clean every thing with alachol Watch for leaks. If the Boot has a hole in it email me & I send part# for replacement boot Charles

Reply to
radiotech

Thanks for the response Charles. The boot is pushed out and judging by the amount of coolant that came out of the anode area when I removed the tube/lens assembly from the light box, it has probably been leaking slightly for a little while.

I will let you know how I make out.

James

snipped-for-privacy@corrwireless.com wrote:

Reply to
Grauwulf

Reply to
radiotech

Yep, it was definatly arcing to the frame, that was how I discovered the problem in the first place. There is a small hole in the anode cap where it was arcing through. I have already sliced the cap from the tube, but I unfortunatly do not have a scrap tube to take one off of. I do have some crt arcade monitor flybacks that have good anode leads and caps on them, but I do not believe that any of the leads are going to be long enough. What are your thoughs about filling the small hole in the cap with silicone to insulate it again?

James

snipped-for-privacy@corrwireless.com wrote:

Reply to
Grauwulf

Okay, I have this set back up and running. I ended up putting a new clip and cap on the anode lead because the old one still arced. However, now that I have this back together I have a convergence problem. I can adjust the crosshairs in the test menu convergnce setup and it's prefect, but the convergence top/bottom and at the edges is all messed up. This TV supposedly had a good picture before it quit working. Any suggestions on how to get the convergence back to where it should be?

Reply to
Grauwulf

Hi,

Interesting, I have gone through a similar path for 2.5 year old RCA D40w20 40'' rear projection TV... And the convergence at its sides is also bad, although the center can be perfectly adjusted...

The story: It was given to me as non-working from a co-worker. Indeed, there was a coolant leak from at least two out of the three guns. The coolant ended-up on the neck boards at the bottom of the TV, causing corrosion & circuit damage. The image was full blast red for a few seconds before the protection circuits were turning the set off.

I had to replace a few pins in a corroded connector (flat ribbon cable), fix an opened corroded copper trace, and replace three parts (electrolytic cap, resistor & zener diode) on two of the neck boards, plus clean the boards to remove any trace of that &?@#$ coolant.

While I still have to cure the original coolant fix, the TV now works well, however the convergence at the sides is quite poor, even though it can be adjusted perfectly at the center using the set-up menu.

Is there any hidden convergence menu for these TVs ?

Thank you, Cheers,

- Sylvain in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Grauwulf wrote:

Reply to
sg

When you remove a tube it will need fine realignments . If you bumped the alignment rings while it was out that will cause convergence issues

Reply to
Ken G.

2.5 years old and not working and it's a brand name.

To think how some of you call me a moron because I bought a Protron.

Reply to
Malissa Baldwin

That's not why.

*PLONK*
Reply to
T Shadow

Thankfully on this TV there is nothing under the tubes to leak on to. The light box is big enough that the chassis is all the way to the rear of the box and not under the tubes in any way. I have spoken to a reapir shop and they believe that the arcing has damaged the convergence IC, so I may just end up taking it in to have them get it set back up for me. I have very little invested in the TV, less than $75 at this point, so if I have to pay someone a few hundred bucks to finish the repair, I can probably live with that. I was looking online locally and you can't touch a DLP RPTV in the same size for under $1k. But I am going to sit on it until after New Years and see if I can't fix what I've done. It is quite possible that I bumped the convergence rings on the tube when I had it out.

James

sg wrote:

Reply to
Grauwulf

plug in the set and hold down the volume down and chennel down till the set come on you are now in the sevice mode if the center is ok then scroll down till you get to convergance adjustent and straighten out the clor or colors that are off if the cnet is not then take off the front panel and access panel and adjut the centering ring to get is correct hit clear once and store adjustments and run calibrate and close out srevice mode you should be allset

Reply to
David Naylor

Thanks David,

Perfect, I can now adjust most of the convergence issues using this service mode.

Happy New Year!

Regards,

- Sylvain

David Naylor wrote:

Reply to
sg

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