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Long end snips ?

Just to change a 1/4 inch socket and avoid taking the whole amp apart I need to cut a nylon cable tie that is holding back the associated wires, to extract the subboard with the socket on it. Access is about 3/4 inch x 2.5 inch but 4 to 5 inches deep. Usual end snips no good. Tried heating a dental pick via a soldering iron, removing iron and pushing against the nylon but more likely to melt the wiring insulation than the nylon. So far the best is a scalpel blade with a short cutting edge at the leading point, rather than usual angled to the axis. Got about half way through but then the tie moved. Anyone got any other ideas?

Reply to
N_Cook
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Sickle-shaped scalpel blade. Hook it underneath and pull.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 

160 North State Road #203 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

hobbs at electrooptical dot net 
http://electrooptical.net
Reply to
Phil Hobbs

#12 is the right blade.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 

160 North State Road #203 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

hobbs at electrooptical dot net 
http://electrooptical.net
Reply to
Phil Hobbs

Just remembered my old Stanley/Utility knife has some spare blades inside it , one of which is a lino cutting blade. A visous phleme looking blade with a backwards cutting edge and a point. If I bolt that to a steel rod and pull, it should work. A job for tomorrow

Reply to
N_Cook

Just noticed your post, after my followup, similar idea. The lino cutter blade has a much better rearwards facing cutting angle , and can be pushed in a pulled back, fully axially with no requirement for tipping up the shaft. similar to these

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Reply to
N_Cook

Another tool for my box labelled kit and jigs. Existing mounting hole in the blade, in the wrong place and had to grind a hole through. Beware you need fibre washers , not screw head tight to the square steel rod, I snapped the first blade, a brittle form of steel. Because of the lay of the wires, could not use the tool through the viewing slot. But as the rod I used was a foot long, that went along in another route, impossible to view down. Then still required a flat screwdriver pushed against the lino blade, through the viewing slot, to pull the blade through the nylon. 2 ground mounting slots and fixings would have avoided the added screwdriver forcing but would not have allowed rotation of the blade relative to the rod, then tighten the screw, to get just the right angle of entry of the hook under the nylon.

Reply to
N_Cook

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