Long stem guitar input jack sockets

These sort of things

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Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time. Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't stay that way for many years.

Reply to
N_Cook
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Note that "jack socket" is redundant because a jack is a socket.

(And, likewise, what goes in is called a plug, not a "jack" or "jack plug".)

That kind of barrel jack is used in acoustic guitars, where it has to go through a thick block of wood, like an end-block.

If there is any possibility that it fits you instrument, you should use an "open frame" jack made by Switchcraft:

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These things are tough and last for years.

The tip contact can be bent slightly to adjust the tension needed to remove the jack.

Once in a while, polish the contacts with metal polish like Brasso or Silvo, and you're good.

Reply to
Kaz Kylheku

On jacks/plugs/sockets my translator file

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That said, subject should though have used the term output, not input I cannot see how removing an extra cubic inch of wood of the guitar body would change the acoustic structure of an electric guitar noticably, and enlarge the access panel cover a bit. Presumably as a major , long established guitar manufacturer , they must do it for guaranteed repeat maintainence fees over the years. Then as you say an open frame socket would go in there instead of inherently weak long stem sockets.

Reply to
N_Cook

A lot of players use wireless when duck walking these days. I'd use a surplus open frame switchboard jack, long skinny brass thing, lasts forever.

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Reply to
dave

THANKS! needed those!

Reply to
RobertMacy

These sort of things

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Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time. Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't stay that way for many years.

No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.

Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will last a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.

going to better your reputation.

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Gareth.

Reply to
Gareth Magennis

These sort of things

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Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time. Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't stay that way for many years.

No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.

Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will last a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.

going to better your reputation.

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Gareth.

Oops, I didn't properly read your post. It seems you are going to bodge the crap one instead of replacing it with a good one.

Never mind, eh.

Gareth.

Reply to
Gareth Magennis

Here is a nice variety of solutions.

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good for model numbers if nothing else..

Reply to
dave

There is more metal making up the escutchion part , but is the internal construction any different to the no-namers? I've not found quoted insert/extract forces for any of them. I get the notion this is the main criteria for guitarists, implying how sloppy the jack is in the socket.

Reply to
N_Cook

Another good name guitar in with a dodgey output socket. This time small stem open frame Switchcraft. Are you sure Switchcraft is the bees-knees? Central barrel turned in the shield contact tag section with just finger grip turning force required, so breaking contact in use. Large ballbearing and vice to re-swage that and for good measure a small lip return on the open end of the tip contact, the 2 tags for T and S , bent outwards a bit and a stout "O" ring run around all 3 for much improved tip contact force. Would a replacement Switchcraft one have been any better these days ? Bad design point there is what used to be paxolin/tufnal disc spacers is now , presumably more compressible, pcb type material. Plus I suspect the material that makes the tip contact these days looses springiness/deforms easier over useage/time than whatever they used to be made of

Reply to
N_Cook

Another good name guitar in with a dodgey output socket. This time small stem open frame Switchcraft. Are you sure Switchcraft is the bees-knees?

I was only referring to the long barrel types.

Cheers,

Gareth.

Reply to
Gareth Magennis

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