IBM Model M Keyboards

You can try opening it up and giving it a good cleaning (all of the keys and switches, and the PC board), rinse and dry thoroughly, and check to see if there's a fuse on the PCB which might have blown. There were quite a few different M models with different PCBs and I haven't been able to find schematics, so you'd have to inspect the one you have.

If the large IC (the keyboard-control microprocessor) was damaged, you might be able to repair the PCB if you can find a parts donor (same M model) on ePay or elsewhere.

If you like the buckling-spring design used in the M (as I do), check with Unicomp. They're still making a couple of models of bucking-spring keyboard (standard and mini), with both USB and PS/2 interfaces available. I think they used to offer a repair service for Model M keyboards but I'm not sure it's still available.

I'm typing this on a vintage-2001 Unicomp.

I have had some success with vintage keyboards simply putting them through the dishwasher - keys down, upper rack, 1/3 the normal detergent. But, be sure the unit does not have an exposed heating element or you might melt the keyboard. Newer keyboards do quite well as long as they are not self-powered (battery type).

Remember - the alternative is landfill, so heroic measures are justified.

Sure; I've given whole keyboards a soak in deionized water ,with a little alcohol and/or a drop or three of PhotoFlo or similar wetting agent. It worked.

A day or so, with some agitation and pressing of keys, then remove, let drain, and air-dry for a week before you try it.

Pull keycaps off, and remove casing and cords if possible, first.

On buckling-key keyboards this is all OK; on membrane keyboards, though, the water wicks into the sandwich layers and never comes out.

We poured distilled water through it and let it dry overnight (SoCal, we're having a heat wave here). One worked. One partially worked, so I'm going to be less gentle with that one and let it dry longer. Yeah, we have half a dozen waiting for revivification.

The differences are interesting. On one the top just goes on easily. On another you have to fit the bottom (closest to the spacebar) part in first and remove some of the keytops and even then there's some magical thing that we're missing.

And how many nutdriver sets have a thinwall 5.5mm or 7/32? FEH!

If you have a bench grinder, every nutdriver has a thin wall nutdriver inside it. Use a hex bit in an electric screwdriver to spin the workpiece, it's steadier than simply handheld grinding.

We ended up buying a very pretty one from Amazon. I love tools.

snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com, whit3rd snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote,

Another possibility: find a socket head capscrew fitting the hexagon you want to drive. Turn yo the required outside diameter in a lathe. Make a simple handle with a coupling nut. If you have the time and creativity, make a nice wood handle.

Regards, ... Peter E.