Hints for finding replacement buttons?

I deal with a number of vintage devices, refurbishing and reselling them. One of the annoyances I have is dealing with missing or broken buttons (and knobs, dials, etc.). As silly as it may seem, something like a missing button cap, that has no functional effect on the device, can dramatically lower the value and salability of a device.

Now, if there's an electronic component that's broken, I at least know how to look for it, by its electrical specs or even its model number. However, if I need to replace a button, I'm lost. Buttons rarely have useful identifying markings on them. And there must be thousands of buttons on the market, with many variations on shape, size, physical characteristics, ..., from dozens, maybe even hundreds of manufacturers. At least, so it seems from the searches I've attempted. I've been unsuccessful at finding replacement buttons and such, except in the cases where I had the luxury of the specific manufacturer and part number.

How do you find a replacement button? Are there any tricks to it? Any hints appreciated.

Reply to
Hamad bin Turki al Salami
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Hamad bin Turki al Salami wrote in message news:-u2dnRPGiM6K2SjanZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...

From tips files on URL below

For making reasonable looking copies of old bakelite or unconventional equipment knobs. Requirements:- Flexible moulding liquid(obtainable from craft shops for casting chess pieces etc),polyester resin and hardener,mould release agent if required,colourant, broken rare earth magnet,iron filings,modern-day knob smaller than required knob,engraving tool for vibration. Procedure:- Clean and polish knob from which a one-part mould can be taken{no severe undercuts).Fix any old potentiometer to a metal plate locateable to a small container (for precise alignment of knob),mount with shaft downwards.Remove grub screw from the origional knob,place a small plug of cable sleeving in the hole and reinsert the grub screw.Fix this knob to the shaft (fast but removeable by pulling).Assemble mould jig and pour in moulding rubber,vibrate with engraver to rid of air bubbles,allow to cure. Mix resin and colourant,preferably keep cool to reduce viscosity. Prepare the modern knob;mark radial position of grub screw on the rear surface of the knob,repeat grub screw plug as above,fix to pot shaft..Extend the grub screw hole with a piece of cable sleeving,plugged at outermost end with glued magnetic material (length just clearing the side of the mould). Mix hardener with the resin/colourant and pour in mould,vibrate with engraver as above. Allow to cure.Demount mould,then with iron filings locate axactly the extended grub screw hole and drill down to the grub screw,grind rear face of knob if required,remove plug from centre of knob. A refinement is to add punched discs,shapes or press-formed domes of brass shim lightly gummed to the mould base to provide pointers or contrasting finish. The colourant can be ground down broken bakelite knobs , if you can be sure there is no asbestos fibre reinforcement to the knob/s.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook

Another more basic tip.

If one of 5 matching knobs is missing. Move them so the missing one is in the centre and add one of right colour and shape but larger say, to the centre. Or if 2 of one size, say volume and dial scale knob , one is missing , replace both with 2 from somewhere else.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook

Something you might possibly not be aware of is a material called Polymorph. It`s a white nylon like substance supplied as granules, which melt in hot water (below boiling point) into a transparent mouldable mass. It`s cool enough to mould by hand and when fully cooled, immensely tough - virtually unbreakable in fact - it machines very much like nylon, and can be drilled and tapped. Ideal for prototyping parts and for making replacement knobs and handles and for modelmaking.

I got mine from Rapid Electronics

Ron(UK)

Reply to
Ron(UK)

manufacturers.

New one to me, looks interesting

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30 deg C is too low for practical uses though. I wonder if it takes colourants/additives. Unfortunately probably no use with moulding rubber as that melts at about 100 deg C

Last week I came across, for the first time, this veg in Waitrose that seems too pretty to eat. Fibonacci Series gone mad

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Sometime I intend trying the craft moulding rubber on one, to take a cast.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook

What do you mean too low for practical uses? at room temp it`s rock hard. You wouldn't make a valve base out of it, but that`s not what it`s for.

You might be able to kneed in some kind of colouring, possibly a powdered nylon dye

Works nicely with pourable silicon tho

Reply to
Ron(UK)

device,

know

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about

"Polymorph is one of a new generation of polymers with all the characteristics of a tough, machinable engineering material, yet it fuses and becomes easily mouldable between 30°C and 62°C." from the rapidline URL before.

Reading up about it , it is supposed to be related to hot-melt glue. Hot-melt material is remeltable so can easily take different colours on an ad hoc basis. Is polymorph one-time-use ? so it will not remelt if exposed to 30 to 62 . Is polymorph one-time-use ? so it will not remelt if exposed to 30 to 62 °C ?

I assume it is a harder resulting material than hot-melt glue stick.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook

You can remelt polymorph over and over again with the same results. Obviously it`s not intended to be used for making something that would be exposed to heat.

There is a pourable version now that you freeze to harden. I`m not sure what the uses of that are.

It`s a lot harder, think of screwdriver handle hardness. It has a slightly soapy feel to it. In fact, it`s great for making special tool handles.

Order some and try it, it`s cheap enough.

Ron

Reply to
Ron(UK)

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Can you sand it and then paint it, or is it too slippery?

Reply to
hrhofmann

Post this q' on rec.antiques.radio+phono. A few suppliers hang out there. Others will provide links and possible sources for specific pieces...as well as alternative methods of fabrication to the excellent advice given by Mr. Cook.

jak

Reply to
jakdedert

Which leaves the problem, due to heat , for casting purposes what to use for the intermediary "plug". What is pourable silicon ?, I've only come across RTV which is paste consistency. Do you have a trade name ?

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook

Google is your friend, Try "Pourable Silicone"

Oh what the hell

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Reply to
Ron(UK)

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