GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

is

in the

Beware of leaking electricity. I'm assuming you don't have access to the problem area. Dependent on how close it is to a disposal job, I would cut an access hole in the adjascent outer steel panelling and blank off with something aesthetic afterwards. Put some of that U cross-section plastic "Flexiform" grommet strip around the cut edge while playing around inside. I've done that with a washing machine problem like this in an area behind large lumps of concrete that as far as I could see were not removable.

Perhaps try query in uk.d-i-y, they like that sort of thing, and UK is no more USA than water leaks are electronic ;-)

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

on

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Sam:

How about a bright light shining under the dishwasher while it is running and a mirror on a stick and video camera if you can't stay around long enough to observe.

At that age, if it is used frequently, it may be just plain worn out around the punp bushings, and these things are not generally easily repairable, in my experience. I hate to say replace, but that may be you easiest (and maybe alnmost cheapest) option.

Bob Hofmann

Could it be from the hose to the sump? I repaired mine with a gasket of double sided tape.

there is a seal on the pump/motor shaft that disintegrates with time check it

Actually, that's exactly what I plan to do. I have an "intra-oral" video camera and LCD monitor. Not sure I'll do it first when it's running, but will carefully inspect it for evidence of cracks, rust, loose clamps (unlikely), etc.

According to what I've read, the motor/pump thing is not serviceable and the replacement is $100-150, although a rebuilt one might be less. Not sure it's worth it for such an old machine. It has been used regularly, though I wouldn't say it overstressed.

From what I can gather without actually seeing (so far) an exploded diagram, this uses a horizontal motor driven pump (that I can see!) which directs its output either to the rotating spray arm assembly, or to the output hose, using a solenoid operated "butterfly" valve. Since the leak is present only when the machine is draining, that does narrow down the location considerably.

Or, since it sounds like the same motor/pump assembly has been used on many GE/Hotpoint models, perhaps one from a junker could be found if it isn't something that MacGuyver can repair. :)

If I can manage to remove the motor/pump assembly for careful inspection without having to take the entire machine out (and disconnect plumbing) that would be great. There aren't that many connections to it.

Thanks!

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You mean to the drain? I will carefully check that. Hoses looked to be in very good condition from initial inspection.

Thanks.

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Mine actually leaked from the fill hose connection but it could be the drain in your case. Not so much the hose but the gasketing to the wash tank.

But note that this is only leaking when it is pumping out. Thus all the seals that need to be intact during fill, wash, and rinse, are not leaking.

Thanks.

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Sam Goldwasser wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@blue.seas.upenn.edu:

I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.

The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.

The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn bearing) in it's movement.

I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub, which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is not that expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in the field at the time of installation.

R!!

If that's for sure then yes, looks like a pump seal and it's on the outflow side.

This sounds very much like what might be happening.

Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?

Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the bearing or something?

But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?

Right.

Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.

Right, by me 19 years ago. :) I do intend to check the simple things first!

Thanks!

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The same pump is used for all functions. There was another reply that seemed to make the most sense - a seal on the valve that switches between wash and drain.

Thanks.

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Sam Goldwasser wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@blue.seas.upenn.edu:

I dont know if parts are still available for the wastegate repair, but the hole that the shaft goes through gets larger and the screws that hold the plate of the valve to the shaft are peened to prevent them from falling out, rather tedious job to remove them. There was a kit at one time new shaft, screws , nut, plate and bearing seal and reamer and of course instructions.

See above, just getting the thing apart to try something is tough...

Yes!

Yes, kinda tight under there, they may also be a couple of ground wires under screws that are quite clumsy to get at.

You will be greatly assisted with a small mirror.

Sam Goldwasser wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@blue.seas.upenn.edu:

Item 417 Shaft seal ...Wastegate

SEAL SHAFT 417 WD8X181 $12.75

Item 434 Motor Shaft seal...

SHAFT SEAL ASM 434 WD19X52 $43.25

Housing with valve is NLA

PUMP HOUSING ASM 311 WD19X42 $30.00

Complete Pump assembly...

MOTOR/PUMP ASM 310 WD26X10013 $150.50

Hope this is helpfull...

R!!

Yes, thanks for all your posts.

I've seen some Web sites with the complete motor/pump assembly for about $100. Would you not recommend them if I did have to replace the entire thing (though I doubt those in charge of finances would go for it anyhow!).

I've also heard of rebuilt motor/pump assemblies, or is that what this would be?

Or, I could just keep the pan underneath it the way it is now...... :)

First step is to confirm where the leak is!

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it's a real pain to do anything unless you remove the dishwasher. Once you do that, a totally new machine isn't that much more than the entire pump replacement sots, and you get a new machine. I like to repair stuff, but if this were mine, I probably would replace the whole machine.

Bob Hofmann

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Please, keep us posted as to what you find and what you decide.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

Absolutely! (Though I doubt it's going to end up being a Tom Clancy trhiller!). :)

I still can't figure out exactly where the leak is. It does NOT appear to be at the shaft of the butterfly valve, but closer to the back of the motor. might the higher pressure in the pump chamber when draining due to the much smaller diameter connector result in a leak through a marginal motor/pump seal?

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Just an update. No, I haven't dug into the leak yet. Still appears to be coming from the shaft seal area since the water drips off of the back of the motor (the sheet metal flange).

I did find a few other minor probably unrealted issues.

The spring cutter (#432 in the diagram at:

)

is broken and I've only found the straight piece so far, or perhaps the spring part is still attached.

I'm also getting intermittent "Wash Arm Blocked" errors. The reed switch and magnet seem to be fine in that a voltmeter across the reed switch shows appropriate behavior, and I've cleaned out all debris from the screen and wash tower and cleaned them up as best I can. Unfortunately, it's really hard to watch the arm spinning when it's running!

But I have a question: On the bottom section of part #550, there is a hole and slot. The hole is visible in the diagram but there is what looks like a post sticking out where the slot is. Should there be something in that hole that has magically disappeared? In the diagram, there is a part #557 near it which could be related but has no accompanying description. It's not shown in the parts diagram that came with the dishwasher.

Thanks for any info!

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