Fender Twin reverb from 1979

Remove the captive nuts and replace with the correct length bolts with counter-sunk heads and non-captive nuts with a flat washer against the chassis and star washer on top. This has been done many times especially when captive nuts are lost as they can pop out easily.

"Nutcase _Kook"

The chassis looks like this:

The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they will also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size.

The three holes in the back edge take self tapping screws driven into the top of the cabinet and will hold the chassis solidly in place *on their own*.

..... Phil

this

that

Not

not

out

Are you a magician. ? The point of captive nuts is no spanner required to turn the nut as there is no access plus easier manufacturing of the chassis. I've found some 4mm captive/caged nuts, that with a bit of coaxing will go into the existing holes in the chassis without enlarging. And 4mm stainless steel bolts of the right length. The 3 screws at the rear are into cabinet wood that may as well be made of paper as far as resisting the weight of 2 large transformers + + in a cantilever action.

BTW that decayed horse manure or goaty smell inside the amp . What is it they add to winding wire insulation in the US that biologically breaks down with UK damp air or whatever is the cause. No particularly unpleasant but I'd rather the workshop smelled of bakelite or shellac say, rather than a farmyard

"Nutcase Kook"

Dickhead.

... Phil

I've held regular nuts in my fingertips while threading them onto screws in Fender combos many, many times. It's not magic but requires a degree of manual dexterity. Once the nut contacts the star washer it can be released and the screw tightened from above. If there is enough room to get your fingertips on the end of the screw there's enough room to do it this way.

Didn't we go over this a while back? And what makes you think it's coming from winding wire?

than

of

should

but

replace

too

inside

chassis.

go

stainless

cabinet

Either you have scissor-hands or these are not original screws. These nuts are internal of the chassis, not on an external ledge. Overall length 37mm . Width of cab and spreader plates 25mm , 2mm chassis thickness leaving you with 37 minus 27 mm to get fingers in and long enough to reach the front ones. 10mm or 3/8 inch

The chassis looks like this:

The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they will also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size.

The three holes in the back edge take self tapping screws driven into the top of the cabinet and will hold the chassis solidly in place *on their own*.

You lying f****it.

... Phil

I've done this with my early 70's Twin, a 60's Deluxe, and a few others. I doubt if Fender changed their chassis anchoring strategy in a 1979 model. I don't have scissor-hands but can hold a nut well enough to thread it onto a screw without tools. If you can grab the end of the screw with your finger tips you can thread a nut onto it.

Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom.

And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread.

They are Tinnerman Nuts.

Used to be used a lot in automotive.

"Meat Plow" "Phil Allison"

Was a big improvement over the previous use of very long bolts that wound up getting bent and were very hard to fit the nuts onto when used near the power tranny.

.... Phil

ultra-linear

I will add to my UK / USA Tool Terminology Translator file

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

Spire Clips in the UK

Although I'll take in amps of this nature I prefer the all valve models of the late 50's and 60's. I recall now repairing another Fender from this era and recall the change in mounting. It seems to be an improvement over the captive nut through the chassis bolt up. I've had to reach around power trannies plenty of times to re-seat captive nuts that were dislodged from trying to find the nut hole with the screw. After a period of time the nut clips seem to lose their tension and are easily pushed out. And it seems it's always that last nut in the back after the other three are tightend.

I'd have more confidence in those 3 wood screws at the rear of the chassis, into the cab top, if they were longer and set at at opposing angles a la floor-board nails, for maximum resistance to being pulled out

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on