DJM500 Repair

Try pushing down , with a small piece of metal along the top , to give even pressure, which can be more pressure than the lift up type of clamp.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

on

I'm still not getting anywhere so I've posted some pictures of the connector in question. Hopefully that'll help

I can't believe I'm stumped by something so straightforward. Thanks for the help so far.

even

After looking at the picture, I think the lower part of the connector moves down in the direction of (white) arrow to release cable.

Regards, Ravi

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Okay. I'm not quite as daft as I thought. Just spoken to a service friend of mine and apparently although they may look like some sort of socket arrangement they are in fact just strain relief for a soldered connector.

This is going to be a little more fiddly than I thought.

However if anyone knows of a minature tactile switch with just two contacts that would be useful

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ive even

Not sure whether you tried to pull the cable gently.

I had a VCR once, in which they had used similar tinned end cable that one would to pull gently to release from the socket. Then to re-insert in to socket, it needed to be pushed down with a bit of force.

With Regards,

Ravi.

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tp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

I'm pretty sure they're fixed. I was beginning to pull far harder than I would like or should need to. It's just Pioneer making life difficult for all involved. This is a company that has now refused to supply any spare parts to a number of service centres. Therre are other connectors that are slightly different, they can be disconnected.

on

I reckon that`s the type of socket with a backwards facing blade designed to enable the wire to be inserted but not withdrawn. Usually pushing a thin needle down alongside the wire will release it from the socket, it`s a bit fiddly with several conductors in the ribbon, but it can be done.

If the op is in the UK, 2 pole min tactile switches are available from Farnells

Ron

I HATE those snatch connectors, Ron. When they're in an awkward place, it's almost imposiible to tell whether you're dealing with the type where a latch bar de-clicks and lifts at either end, or the type with a de-latch bar that presses down against the spring tension of the contacts, and releases them all at once. The manufacturers of kit that uses them, even mix both types on the same board ...

And as I'm sure you experience as well, no matter how carefully you keep the cable out of the way, one of the wire ends will always get bent, and no matter how well you straighten and realign it, it will bend out line and refuse to go down its hole, every time you try to reinsert it .... >:-(

Arfa

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A wire often breaks with all this going on as well as misaligning. In those annoying circumstances I get a piece of header strip or wire/wrap (depending on wire size) and solder the damn wires to the pins and then insert the rigid pins in the socket. Sometimes bending the pins where a right angle entry.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

Mr Cook is correct. Push down firmly on the top flat part of the connector housing with a screwdriver whilst gently pulling the cable out. These are actually quite a tight fit and don't feel like they want to come out at all, but they do.

Gareth.

What

connector

are

all,

I have a bit of square rod , fixed to a handle for this purpose, certainly more than finger pressure required and pressure nneds to be made along the length of the flange or not all wires will freeup together, the plastic bends otherwise. Need a soft pad on the trackside as well usually

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

Yep, it certainly takes more than fingers to release the latch, hence, no doubt, the OP's confusion.

Gareth.