From 1978 , does anyone other than me repair these beasts ? Only ever perished rubber problems but what a work up to get to a position to be able to just change belts.
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
I think I've worked on one or two - didn't enjoy it either...those old Aiwa's are some of the worst.
Mark Z.
Well,
I'll agree there. They are a royal pain to change the rubber parts in, though when working they are nice decks. I now worry about the quality of parts available, as Aiwa no longer supports these machines, and a lot of the aftermarket belts are awful. Some of them look like they were cut from used tire (tyre) inner tubes.
Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics
position
At least I'm not alone, in touching these and in thinking they are right pigs. To get to anything, you have to disassemble something else and some you have to jiggle around blind, before they line up again.
Got the manuals this time, for 2 to do, and the first I went through dissassembly as per manual, which involves demounting the mains transformer and like everything else the loom lengths are not enough to stow this big lump out the way. Then a horrendous rat's nest of wiring to negotiate, and managed to strain the deck light wires and of course broke at the bulb.
I think the second one I will do as I've done before, to get to the deck. Remove the front and sub-front to free it. You have to wrap up the meters to protect them and you cannot totally free the panel because the 1/4 inch sockets are one-time fitted, and other end of cables inaccessible, so the whole subpanel dangles, but easier to tie it up, out the way. That is preferable to a dangling transformer and the rat's nest.
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
Yes, dismantle via the front sub panel. More bits to remove but when you get the panel removed , just held by those annoying 1/4 inch socket cables; the deck , solenoid, other motor and mains and ps are all bolted to the chassis so can work on and test out the motive functions without having to re-assemble anything/dis-assemble/reassemble.
I will have another go at trying to fathom how to remove the 1/4 inch sockets.
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
Had to revert to my previous technique of grinding 2 flats into the domed heads and then 2 could be undone with a small 3.5mm open ender screwdriver. This time used an 1/8 inch cylinder centride burr in a Dremmel instead of small grind stone. The other 2 I could get to with a pipe wrench, of all things, because of the good leverage and right angle action.
So perhaps a sight no one has seen since production of Aiwa 6900 tape decks in 1978. Trying to sort out a brakes problem otherwise totally enclosed and impossible to glimpse any sort of view, only rather confusing exploded views in the manual. B = brakes, S = their activation solenoid.
So it is possible to work on the deck without half taking the m/c to bits first. So you have to reassemble before checking it out and so often you put something back in the wrong position. But you do have to wrestle with those glued screws. As one of them has nearly straight action with long handle screwdriver but would not undo, then still a problem with the deck removed and a straight attack to all 4 screws to get apart.
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
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