Problem, Solution = gerbils??

A heat lamp or small Quartz spot lamp (saw some at Home Depot yesterday 45W) pointing at the PIR detector through a floor fan (fan on a stand) (also at HD) running on slow might do the trick. If that doesn't work you could have the fan oscillate back and forth to move the lamp in and out of the field of view of the defector, use some foil to baffle, shield, the heat source. Most of the PIR detectors I have seen are looking for a rate of change above a certain threshold in the 11 micron range (Black Body radiation peak for 98 degree F object). If the rate of change is to slow the detector will not see it so a 555 driving a lamp might not heat up and cool off fast enough to do the trick. Do however let the group know how you solve the problem that we all may learn. By the way if this new building also has Flame detectors a candle might work, all the firemen running around looking for the fire will set off the PID just fine, but be sure to where a rain coat.

Real simple - plug a lead light into a AC outlet, then you dont have to worry about the main lights. Most techs have one in the back of the truck for situations where there is no AC lighting.....

PS - the hi tech stuff IS interesting, but sometimes the problem becomes so complex it stops you doing what you originally set out to do.

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Most people don't realize that you can modulate the incandescent lamp with audio and detect it with a photovoltaic cell. It does sound muffled, tho. So I would say that the lamp would have no problem responding to the on/off cycles of a 555. And it's a helluva lot more portable than a light, fan, foil, etc.

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Well, I stopped by OSH and bought a clamp-on lamp socket with aluminum reflector and a few 40W appliance bulbs. I'm planning on plugging it in at each workstation, leave it on the floor or clamp it on the desk edge, and to hell with the IR sensors, let 'em go off. I got my own light source!

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Yeah, drain the proverbial swamp.. Thanks.

Yummy! You think I can find that flavor at Baskin Robbins? It's getting to be Ice Cream weather! ;-)

Actually, recently I went into Coldstone, where they custom mix your favorite flavors. Yummy, but more expensive.

It makes sense to have a pair to balance out any slow changes in temperature, otherwise the thing would trigger every time the sunlight hit it. I reverse engineered one security light circuit, and I was surprised that they used a pair of electrolytics, 470 uF IIRC, back to back as coupling caps to give the high pass filtering, aka keep the DC out of the next stage amplifier.

Boring in the extreme. All these good ideas and I was waiting for a modulated cat passive heat dissipating shields with remote control tied to a fan and you go and buy lamps, most unsatisfactory.

Boring, but a superior solution. It gets quite dim under a desk with the only illumination bring the overhead lighting.

(Why are so many people crossposting to alt.binaries.schematics.electronic? don't you people know what the words "binaries" and "schematics" mean?)

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Ahh missed this bit of the thread .... The Sensor switches I have seen give you a couple of Seconds to toggle them off and On - however it does sound like these ones may not be designed for this option but if they use a standard Chip/Circuit this still might work have you tried turning them On .... then off and on again to see if they do stay on ?