dead battery

Yes there is that. Here I have nothing but electric so I don't use gas. They charge me a distribution fee even if I use no electricity. I cook outdoors with wood and charcoal when I can.

There's lots of foods that just don't taste good in a microwave - I should mention that I cook real food - not frozen food or foods that come in boxes - as a rule. Can't make a decent stir-fry chicken and vegetables with rice without using a stove . . .

I have cut my bill in half by taking some extreme measures. I put a switch on the water heater with two pilot lights to tell me when it is turned on and when it is actually heating water. For a shower I have to preheat water for 6-10 minutes in winter (I set a timer to tell me when it is hot enough) and 3 in summer then shower with the heat on in winter (added a very low flow shower head - it actually heats water faster than I can use it) Finished showering and I turn it off. Leaving it on 24/7 and it runs for ~50 minutes a day, using a switch cuts that to 20 minutes or less a day. That change saves about 60 cents a day or $18/month. My bill is ~$22-25 a month so water heat is one big savings.

Everything else gets cold water except dishes and for that I heat the water in a large "bain marie" (big stainless steel pot) on the stove. By doing that, I save the water it takes heating the pipes to carry water from the water heater (which isn't that hot since it is turned off) to the sink, and can bring the temperature up if it falls while washing dishes -dishes go in the bain marie along with the wash water.

all the little wall wart type power supplies and things that don't really turn off have switches on them - computer printer, VCR, electronic typewriter, etc..

almost all the lights are compact fluorescent types - if I run it more than an hour a day it is a fluorescent lamp.

I did go around with an ammeter and used a spreadsheet to calculate how much each appliance costs to run - so if I bake bread I can factor in the cost of the electricity as well as the ingredients. I can get a dozen rolls out for ~60 cents - versus 1.20 for day old store bought rolls.

Its possible to save quite a bit of money by rationing energy use but it practically has to be an obsession to do it.

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default expressed the useful opinion that the gas is water vapor heated by the current. In that case, if one were to use some method for cooling the battery while it is recharged, or perhaps if one used a circuit that recharged it extremely slowly, perhaps one could charge it to significantly higher voltages. How high a voltage could one hope to get?

--
Ignorantly,
Allan Adler 
* Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and
* comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.
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Allan Adler

The chemistry determines the voltage, not the charger if things are working the way they are supposed to. I don't know of any charger that attempts to cool the battery being charged - but that seems like it would work.

If you do manage to drive the voltage up significantly it is likely the battery is damaged.

Lead Acid = 2 volts (a recently charged one will read 2.2 V) Alkaline = 1.5 (brand new 1.65 V) NiCad = 1.2 Lithium ~=3 volts (3.7V)

Good battery chargers monitor the voltage, current and some even temperature. Some battery types have their voltage rise when fully charged others fall, the charger monitors and cuts off the charging.

Many chargers and batteries charge at a 1/10 capacity rate. If the battery holds 10 amp hours, its charge rate will be 1 amp for 10+ hours.

The safest way to charge is to limit current and voltage. Fast chargers, frequently monitor temperature too.

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